Englander 30 stove collar connection

[ATVriderINmass]

Hey guys...I have a Englander 30. just wondering if anyone has had problems putting the stove pipe into the collar on top of the stove. I have been standing on top of the stove pretty much hanging on the pipe wiggling it back and forth and tapping it with a hammer and piece of wood. I have about another half inch to go before it hits the bead on the pipe...not sure if it has to go all the way down to the bead or not...any help would be great...

 

[jtp10181]

Might want to try a stove adaptor....

SOmething like this

(broken link removed to http://www.northlineexpress.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=5CO-69125&source=nextag&kw=5CO-69125)

You need the one that is for your type of pipe.

 

[ATVriderINmass]

I didnt know they sold adapters for the top of the stove...I just thought it was supposed to be super tight.. Do they make them in single wall? I'm using dura vent pipe and chimney kit thanks

 

[BrotherBart]

The pipes are always too long. Won't ever go all the way down. Trim it. Also on the Englanders there is always a blob of weld inside the collar. Grind it down even with the rest of the weld.

Footnote: All of the manuals say the pipe should be no smaller that the six inch flue collar. Funny, the hole in the top of the 30 and the 13 both is 5.5 inches. Kinda matches my 5.5 liner.

 

[jtp10181]

They have two available in their catalog.

(broken link removed to http://www.duravent.com/pdf/catalogs/dvl.pdf)

Check page 10 (64)


(broken link removed to http://www.stove-parts.net/Double_Skirted_Stovetop_Adaptor_p/1672.htm)

That is the double-skirted one.


Not sure if you NEED one of these for not for single wall, or if you just need to beat on it harder. But the normal adaptor that says it is 1/8" smaller might just do the trick.

 

[SlyFerret]

I was playing around with [read swearing at] my single wall stove pipe tonight. I was putting a few pieces together to stick in the top of my stove so that it at least looks like it's installed while I wait... I notice mine doesn't go quite in all the way either. As long as it seals good, it's OK. It's close enough that nobody will ever notice it still has 1/4" to go before it gets to the little rib.

I had a heck of a time getting the black pipe to snap into itself to make it a pipe instead of a piece of sheet metal. Then, I had even more trouble getting the pieces to go together. What I finally did was take a pair of snips and cut a short vertical slit about every coupe inches around the crimped end of the pipe. Once I did that, it made it easier to get the crimped end of the pipe to start into the non-crimped end. Note: the slits aren't more than about 1/2" long. Just enough to help get the pipe to start.

-SF

 

[ATVriderINmass]

Mine has about 1/4 inch to go but im just worried about when the inspector comes..I'm gonna go and hang on the pipe a little more and see if i can get it down a little more...I can't believe how hard it is to get that pipe in there ..i'm about 200lbs and i've been putting all my weight on it wiggling it back and forth and it barely goes down...I hope no one is looking through the window watching me on top of the stove hanging on a pipe goin back and forth....the neighbors might start talking...lol

 

[cmonSTART]

Same here. Mine isn't quite all the way down but it seems to work fine and doesn't leak.

 

[Corie]

When you get that tight fit, which generally comes with Simpson Dura-Black and Heat-Fab stovepipe and not the snap-lock stuff (although anything is possible), I recommend a piece of plywood on top of the pipe and gentle persuasion with a rubber mallet. I've been able to bottom out Simpson Dura-Black in both stoves using this technique. Don't forget to install three sheet metal screws at the flue collar to hold the whole operation together.

 

[ATVriderINmass]

where the pipe goes into the stove there is no holes in it for screws...and the steel is about 3/16 thick maybe even 1/4 do i need to drill that?

 

[SlyFerret]

Yeah! Hows come we ain't got no holes there! ;OP

-SF

 

[ATVriderINmass]

Hey everyone...Does anyone know if you need screws in the stove collar on a englander 30 where the pipe goes in the top of the stove? I just dont want any surprises when the inspector comes.. And does anyone know where i could get a roof brace kit for a good price? thanks guys

 

[begreen]

All flue joints including at the stove collar should be screwed at 3 points, 120 degrees apart.

Maybe try (broken link removed) for the brace. It will be under the manufacturer of your class A pipe.

 

[BrotherBart]

It all depends on your inspector. I drilled mine and put three stainless steel screws in it because I didn't want it breaking the seal when I sweep the liner. I have also experienced those "mini-explosions" where a burst of gases ignite all at once in the stove and you can hear the liner flex. I didn't want to be trying to stuff a six hundred degree pipe back into the flue collar.

Mine is installed in a fireplace with a flex liner. Not out in the open with stove pipe.

 

[begreen]

Got that right! It was a really strong backpuff (my fault) last year that made me ever so thankful that every joint was tightly held together.

FJ, even if not required in your jurisdiction, it's a detail that will impress a good inspector. And peace of mind is a very good thing with a hot stove.

 

[ATVriderINmass]

Ya thats true...this should be fun drilling through that steel..thanks alot guys

 

[begreen]

Then your stove would cost $100 more . Nah, I agree, Englander should pre-drill these. FJ, a 3/16" hole is plenty large enough.

PS: merged threads, one's enough.

 

[BrotherBart]

Ya thats true...this should be fun drilling through that steel..thanks alot guys

My drill went through it too easily.

 

[ATVriderINmass]

Mine too...I put regular stove pipe screws..the same that i used for the rest of the pipe..should that be good? and why do i have burning chunk next to my name? it was something else yesterday i think....it seems like every time i post i get a diffrent name...lol