My Englander 55-shp22 combustion motor is humming and it smells like the windings are burning. This happens when the stove is completely shut down and cold. I have to unplug the stove to stop it. When I start the stove up it seems like the motor is running like it should and I don't smell anything. When unplugged, the fan does turn so it's not bound up. Any help would be appreciated.
Englander 55-SHP22 combustion motor problem
- Thread starter JimDog
- Start date
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I realize that. That's what I can't figure out. It's like the motor is getting juice to it while stove is off.
ericofmaine
Feeling the Heat
I assume you're talking about your exhaust blower and not the room air blower. I'd start by checking to see if you have voltage (caution, its 120 VAC) going to the motor when this is occurring. you could unplug the wires and check there or at the board. My initial guess is that you have a bad triac or opto on your control board. If you're brave, they can be replaced. Otherwise, you're probably looking at a new board.
I'd also check the wires where they pass under the exhaust pipe. Mine chafed there and eventually shorted out, killing the triac on my board. I replaced mine, but the components are surface mount so it was a delicate procedure.
Eric
I'd also check the wires where they pass under the exhaust pipe. Mine chafed there and eventually shorted out, killing the triac on my board. I replaced mine, but the components are surface mount so it was a delicate procedure.
Eric
Eric, thanks for the info. I was afraid it might be the board but I'll check the wires under the exhaust. The motor does seem to be getting some power causing it to hum but not enough to actually start it. Thanks for your help.
Jim
Jim
So, I checked the power at the board and the motor and I have 110 at both ends. Could a power surge while the stove was off cause the triac to blow? I don't run the stove 24/7 as it is only used to heat my wood working shop. I pulled the board and didn't see any evidence of anything burnt.
Triacs don't 'discolor, the just fail. You can get them at Dell Electronics or Digikey. Each motor has one so if you have 3 drives, you have 3 Triacs. I take it you don't have a surge suppressor in line with your power cord? That is foolish economy and I suggest you go on Amazon and get yourself a Tripp-Lite double outlet surge suppressor. It hard mounts to your wall outlet (uses a longer faceplate securing screw (included) to mount it. If your home is wired correctly the outlet box will be in the ground circuit so attaching the Ttipp-Lite to the faceplate screw provides a ground point.
Every stove should be on a surge suppressor and so should your computer. neither are cheap to replace board wise.
Unless you are competent at soldering in a new one, you'll be buying a new board.
Every stove should be on a surge suppressor and so should your computer. neither are cheap to replace board wise.
Unless you are competent at soldering in a new one, you'll be buying a new board.
As an aside, if you 'smell' the motor, what you are smelling is the dust and crap cooking on the laminations. Shaded pole motors don't have windings in essence, like a normal ac motor. The have a stack of laminations with a heavy gauge wrap of copper wire to induce magnetism. That magnetic field acts on the solid skewed armature and causes it to rotate.
Shaded pole motors can sit in a locked rotor condition for a very long time without 'burning up', but they can smell if coated in filth.
My suggestion to you is, remove the combustion fan motor, blow it out with compressed air and lubricate the bearings and reinstall it.
You should always unplug a unit when not in use (summer months) or keep it on a surge protector.
Finally, if you use a remote thermostat, unplug the thermostat from the stove in the summer when not in use because during a thunderstorm a nearby lightening strike can cause induced current in the thermostat wires and fry the board as well.
Boards aren't cheap, surge protection is.
Shaded pole motors can sit in a locked rotor condition for a very long time without 'burning up', but they can smell if coated in filth.
My suggestion to you is, remove the combustion fan motor, blow it out with compressed air and lubricate the bearings and reinstall it.
You should always unplug a unit when not in use (summer months) or keep it on a surge protector.
Finally, if you use a remote thermostat, unplug the thermostat from the stove in the summer when not in use because during a thunderstorm a nearby lightening strike can cause induced current in the thermostat wires and fry the board as well.
Boards aren't cheap, surge protection is.
ericofmaine
Feeling the Heat
In addition to what SidecarFlip said above, in addition to needing soldering skills, the components are surface mount and not through the board. It is a VERY delicate operation (ask how I know). If you're going to go through the trouble, solder a ZIF socket to the board so that you can, if need be, replace it in the future without having to solder.
Eric
Eric
Thanks for the info. Looks like I'm going to have to look for a new board and surge protector.
Eric, thanks. I'm afraid I'll have to get a new board as I don't have the experience to try and repair the one I currently have.
Trip-Lites are on Amazon for 32 bucks, free delivery we all tend to use them on here, excellent unit, disregard the negative reviews. If you install them according to the instructions and secure them to the outlet cover plate, they are fine. Not meant to lay on the floor and get plugged into and unplugged constantly. Designed for basically a dedicated setup.
Just bought an additional 2, one for my computer power supply and one for in the shop for the CNC plasma cutter, it's computer driven,
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