Englander pvd25 e2

[Stevenmadison]

Englander 25PVD press on and within 10 seconds get an E2 error. The room fan comes on around the same time. I searched and cannot find this issue. Please help

 

[ARC]

When stove gets e2 that quick usually means vacuum problem. Your exhaust blower should be coming on then you get e2 if stove does not sense vacuum. Check that blower is free spinning, clean, add drop of oil to bearings. Check vacuum switch line for cracks or plugged with soot, including the small metal nipple inside firebox. If neither of these work they try jumping the vacuum switch.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-25-pdv-error-e2.21572/

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[ARC]

Is your venting clean could something have crawled into it over the summer and plugged it. I have found birds, birds nest, wasp nest and rodents in venting. Are your door seals in decent condition bad seals can leak vacuum.

 

[Stevenmadison]

All brand new vents and both vacuum switches are jumped. Blower for the fire box works fine. Seems to try to go into startup when it’s cold then gets progressively faster going into e2. It has a new temp switch, no change. New igniter (manually light it still no change) It’s a freebee from a buddy, worked after fixing the exhaust blower vacuum line had the e1 e2, but only for about 2 days. Now the e2 after about 10 seconds. Sometimes it will go into SU but only when colder. Thinking control board?

 

[Stevenmadison]

Ok, reset the board. Set to mode c 5,4,1 it will run now, but the top auger is not working. Still have both vac switches jumped. Ran diagnostic mode and can control top and bottom auger. Top will not run while the stove is running. Any thoughts?

 

[ARC]

Does your stove have hopper switch, some 25's do some don't.

 

[Stevenmadison]

No hopper switch. Top auger not stuck. Just mother will not turn. Wiring has continuity. Both vac switches jumped.

 

[Whitenuckler]

No hopper switch. Top auger not stuck. Just mother will not turn. Wiring has continuity. Both vac switches jumped.

Can you remove the motor and and bench test it? The motor might need adjustment .Some of these auger motors like s$#t

 

[Stevenmadison]

If I switch the wires from top to bottom the top will run constant and the bottom not at all.

 

[Whitenuckler]

If I switch the wires from top to bottom the top will run constant and the bottom not at all.

They appear to get power from the control board, but you say they both work in test mode? That is strange. Can you explain how they work? This is the first time I've heard of 2 auger motors.

 

[ericofmaine]

Swapping your wires shows that both augers are working. Are the vacuum switches still bypassed? What you're describing points me back to the board. One other thing to try is to swap the augers. Sometimes they get weak from (although typically its the bottom one) from use. Its worth a shot.

Eric

 

[Stevenmadison]

Both switches still by passed. Swapping wires top turns bottom doesn’t. Swap them back, bottom turns top doesn’t. I can run all components through diag mode and they all respond. Board is set to C 5,4,1. I can disconnect the top auger and jump it from the bottom and they both will spin. The only thing left I can think of is the board.

 

[ericofmaine]

That's where I'm at. Good luck as last time I checked they weren't available. One last thought, I think the PROM is in a ZIF socket (not at home to confirm). You could try pressing it in to see if might have a "dead spot."

Eric

 

[ericofmaine]

Just reread your response... I meant to physically swap the augers, not just the wires.

Eric

 

[Stevenmadison]

Are you saying the physical auger, or the motor? I have tried with the top motor removed to "bench test" and the motor itself is fine. I can spin the top auger freely with the motor removed. I will try pushing on the PROM to see if that works. I am under the impression that the board I need is a PU-CB04. That's the part number sticker on the control board front. Ive found them available, if that is indeed the correct part number. Thank you for your help!

 

[Whitenuckler]

Are you saying the physical auger, or the motor? I have tried with the top motor removed to "bench test" and the motor itself is fine. I can spin the top auger freely with the motor removed. I will try pushing on the PROM to see if that works. I am under the impression that the board I need is a PU-CB04. That's the part number sticker on the control board front. Ive found them available, if that is indeed the correct part number. Thank you for your help!

Was reading the manual:
"Horizontal Feed System This unit has a top and a bottom auger that are separated by four inches (4”); a 1-RPM motor drives each auger. The top auger intermittently drops pellets to the bottom auger tube, and the bottom auger pushes the pellets forward to the burn pot."

It looks like the top auger only runs when it wants to. Could be the board for sure. I'd also doublecheck the hopper lid switch just to make sure it's not going bad.

 

[ericofmaine]

Sorry, been crazy at work and haven't been in front of my computer much. Yes, just swap the motors, not the whole assembly as the augers are different lengths. Should be a set screw holding the motor to the auger.
Its a long shot and you probably are looking at a new board but if it works its money you didn't have to spend.

Eric