Enviro Empress FS startup problem

[bilder]

Lately I have been having problems restarting my stove after cleaning. When I press the start button the stove will begin to run but shuts off within 30 seconds, then the number 2 bar on the heat indicator flashes. The stove will usually start after the 2nd or 3rd attempt, or if I unplug it momentarily. Anyone had the same problem?

 

[hearthtools]

Lately I have been having problems restarting my stove after cleaning. When I press the start button the stove will begin to run but shuts off within 30 seconds, then the number 2 bar on the heat indicator flashes. The stove will usually start after the 2nd or 3rd attempt, or if I unplug it momentarily. Anyone had the same problem?

Do you have the owners manual?
if you dont you can download one at www.enviro.com

it explains what each trouble like is.

The #2 light is from the Pressure switch triped
you need to clean the ash traps behind the firebrick
clean the pipe
and clear the vacuum hose port
the fast way to clear the port is to pull the hose off the vacuum switch and blow in the hose (not TO THE SWITCH BUT TO THE STOVE)
to get to it pull the side panel off on the control panel side.
I think I have posted this about 10 times on this site

 

[bilder]

Thanks for the info. Time to take out the tool box.

 

[countk]

Fast forward 3 years. I am having the same problem. I thoroughly cleaned the stove, behind the firebrick, ash traps, cleaned the pipe, etc, so that is not my problem.

Now mind you I have near 0 technical experience, so first I blew up the red vacuum switch hose and then realized I should have removed it. So I did that, and did it the correct way but no success. Did I blow it (pun intended) by blowing up the hose instead of removing it first? Connections appear to be okay.

I realize it could be a lot of other issues, but would it help to take the switch apart? I believe it is the older model. Stove date is 2006.

Any thoughts or suggestions before I resort to my dealer would be appreciated. Thanks a lot!!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Fast forward 3 years. I am having the same problem. I thoroughly cleaned the stove, behind the firebrick, ash traps, cleaned the pipe, etc, so that is not my problem.

Now mind you I have near 0 technical experience, so first I blew up the red vacuum switch hose and then realized I should have removed it. So I did that, and did it the correct way but no success. Did I blow it (pun intended) by blowing up the hose instead of removing it first? Connections appear to be okay.

I realize it could be a lot of other issues, but would it help to take the switch apart? I believe it is the older model. Stove date is 2006.

Any thoughts or suggestions before I resort to my dealer would be appreciated. Thanks a lot!!

Do not do anything to that switch.


Does your combustion blower turn on and come up to speed?

If it doesn't you need to do some more cleaning, get a gasket for the combustion blower before starting the removal because you'll likely destroy what is there by doing the removal.

With the stove off, cold, and unplugged.

Remove the motor assembly and clean the blower's impeller, the area between the impeller and the motor mount plate, clean the dust bunnies and such out of the blower motor, also make certain the cooling fan for that motor is clean.

Then check the motor plate for any possible lubrication, most but not all combustion blower motors are sealed bearing and do not require lubrication. But check and obey.

Now clean the blower cavity and the area between the blower cavity and the fire box.

Playing with live 120 can kill you so take all appropriate precautions.

You can also test the blower by disconnecting it from the stove and wiring it to a test cord.

When this test cord is plugged into a wall outlet the motor should start and go to full speed.

If this gets the motor freed up and reliably spinning then you can put things back together and try it out.

 

[countk]

Thanks all for the advice.

I jumped the two wires together to bypass the vacuum switch, and the stove is humming along beautifully. So a few questions.

1st off, in layman's terms, why is this switch needed? I know it's about negative pressure and airflow and all that, but what does it mean? So can bad airflow cause carbon monoxide or any problems to the stove?

If things are running great with the vacuum switch bypassed, which they are, does that in all likelihood mean I need a new switch, or could it be something else??

As stated earlier my technical ability is very limited, so I wont mess around with a motor or probably anything else, however if it is likely the switch I can install that at least and avoid a service call.

Any and all suggestions welcome! Thanks!!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Thanks all for the advice.

I jumped the two wires together to bypass the vacuum switch, and the stove is humming along beautifully. So a few questions.

1st off, in layman's terms, why is this switch needed? I know it's about negative pressure and airflow and all that, but what does it mean? So can bad airflow cause carbon monoxide or any problems to the stove?

If things are running great with the vacuum switch bypassed, which they are, does that in all likelihood mean I need a new switch, or could it be something else??

As stated earlier my technical ability is very limited, so I wont mess around with a motor or probably anything else, however if it is likely the switch I can install that at least and avoid a service call.

Any and all suggestions welcome! Thanks!!

One: Jumping out the vacuum switch actually says nothing about weather the switch is bad or good.

Two: The vacuum switch is one of two extremely important safeties on the stove, it is there to make certain that the combustion blower is operating and that there is a path up the flue for the exhaust gases to exit the stove. Exhaust gases containing CO are present in all fires.

In layman's terms it is trying to prevent you from dying.


Three: Never run the stove with the vacuum switch (or any other switch jumped) except to verify that it was in fact a vacuum issue that stopped the stove from running.

Four: You still have to find out what is really the problem.

It can be a dirty vent, ash plugged stove (this includes the tube that goes from the vacuum switch back to where it attaches to the stoves exhaust or heat exchanger).

I will repeat while it is possible that the vacuum switch could be bad, it is highly unlikely that it is, and jumping it out does not prove it is bad.

Most vacuum errors turn out to be ash in the works (dirty stove issues).

 

[countk]

Thanks all for the advice.

I jumped the two wires together to bypass the vacuum switch, and the stove is humming along beautifully. So a few questions.

1st off, in layman's terms, why is this switch needed? I know it's about negative pressure and airflow and all that, but what does it mean? So can bad airflow cause carbon monoxide or any problems to the stove?

If things are running great with the vacuum switch bypassed, which they are, does that in all likelihood mean I need a new switch, or could it be something else??

As stated earlier my technical ability is very limited, so I wont mess around with a motor or probably anything else, however if it is likely the switch I can install that at least and avoid a service call.

Any and all suggestions welcome! Thanks!!

One: Jumping out the vacuum switch actually says nothing about weather the switch is bad or good.

Two: The vacuum switch is one of two extremely important safeties on the stove, it is there to make certain that the combustion blower is operating and that there is a path up the flue for the exhaust gases to exit the stove. Exhaust gases containing CO are present in all fires.

In layman's terms it is trying to prevent you from dying.


Three: Never run the stove with the vacuum switch (or any other switch jumped) except to verify that it was in fact a vacuum issue that stopped the stove from running.

Four: You still have to find out what is really the problem.

It can be a dirty vent, ash plugged stove (this includes the tube that goes from the vacuum switch back to where it attaches to the stoves exhaust or heat exchanger).

I will repeat while it is possible that the vacuum switch could be bad, it is highly unlikely that it is, and jumping it out does not prove it is bad.

Most vacuum errors turn out to be ash in the works (dirty stove issues).

Thanks Smokey, but I really don't think it is a dirty stove. I say that because my dealer gave me a thorough cleaning in November and since then I have burnt less than a ton. When the problem occured I again cleaned it thoroughly, the vents, behind the firebricks, etc.

What tube are you referring to that goes from the vacuum switch, not the one that hangs loose, that you remove to blow thru?? Otherwise I see no other tube, but mind you I am very mechanically challenged!!

If in fact it is not a dirty stove or switch, is there any "obvious" or easy thing to check, otherwise I will wait till my dealer comes, which unforunately wont be until either the 11th or 18th. Thanks again!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Thanks all for the advice.

I jumped the two wires together to bypass the vacuum switch, and the stove is humming along beautifully. So a few questions.

1st off, in layman's terms, why is this switch needed? I know it's about negative pressure and airflow and all that, but what does it mean? So can bad airflow cause carbon monoxide or any problems to the stove?

If things are running great with the vacuum switch bypassed, which they are, does that in all likelihood mean I need a new switch, or could it be something else??

As stated earlier my technical ability is very limited, so I wont mess around with a motor or probably anything else, however if it is likely the switch I can install that at least and avoid a service call.

Any and all suggestions welcome! Thanks!!

One: Jumping out the vacuum switch actually says nothing about weather the switch is bad or good.

Two: The vacuum switch is one of two extremely important safeties on the stove, it is there to make certain that the combustion blower is operating and that there is a path up the flue for the exhaust gases to exit the stove. Exhaust gases containing CO are present in all fires.

In layman's terms it is trying to prevent you from dying.


Three: Never run the stove with the vacuum switch (or any other switch jumped) except to verify that it was in fact a vacuum issue that stopped the stove from running.

Four: You still have to find out what is really the problem.

It can be a dirty vent, ash plugged stove (this includes the tube that goes from the vacuum switch back to where it attaches to the stoves exhaust or heat exchanger).

I will repeat while it is possible that the vacuum switch could be bad, it is highly unlikely that it is, and jumping it out does not prove it is bad.

Most vacuum errors turn out to be ash in the works (dirty stove issues).

Thanks Smokey, but I really don't think it is a dirty stove. I say that because my dealer gave me a thorough cleaning in November and since then I have burnt less than a ton. When the problem occured I again cleaned it thoroughly, the vents, behind the firebricks, etc.

What tube are you referring to that goes from the vacuum switch, not the one that hangs loose, that you remove to blow thru?? Otherwise I see no other tube, but mind you I am very mechanically challenged!!

If in fact it is not a dirty stove or switch, is there any "obvious" or easy thing to check, otherwise I will wait till my dealer comes, which unforunately wont be until either the 11th or 18th. Thanks again!

What tube is lying loose? Can you post a picture? The last I knew there aren't any loose tubes floating around inside that stove unless someone added something.

ETA: The tubes from the vacuum switch should be connected to a barb.

If you have a multimeter we can test the vacuum switch.

 

[countk]

Perhaps I should have said hanging from the switch. At any rate it is a silicone hose, with an aluminum barb at the end. Is that supposed to be attached somewhere??? When I opened the panel the aluminum barb end was not connected to anything.

Sorry, I am getting an error message when trying to post a picture "Error Message: Images must not exceed a width of 1305 pixels by 1305 pixels"

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Perhaps I should have said hanging from the switch. At any rate it is a silicone hose, with an aluminum barb at the end. Is that supposed to be attached somewhere??? When I opened the panel the aluminum barb end was not connected to anything.

Sorry, I am getting an error message when trying to post a picture "Error Message: Images must not exceed a width of 1305 pixels by 1305 pixels"

More than likely it should be attached and that is likely your problem.

Resize the picture to 800 by 600.

Go get your stoves installation manual and find the exploded diagram of the stoves guts.

 

[countk]

Smokey, Thank you so much. As I stated I am extremely technically challenged. I found the hole in which the barb needed to be put in. Still don't know what it's called, as the exploded view doesn't show it. At any rate, the problem has been solved and you saved me the service call, that I would have had to pay for!

I love this site and so many people like you that are patient to help out people who don't have a clue. Thanks again. I really appreciate it!

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Anytime.

Enjoy the heat.