Igniter not working .....replaced still not working so my guess is circuit board ..checked fuse and all is good I'm not a electronics guy so pls excuse my description ..but I seen a small flat blk square panel that looked burnt on the bottom ..thinking that. is the problem Anyone know what that part is called and were do I get one Secondly as I needed to take the side cover off to check the board I noticed a nice pile of pellet dust underneath the auger what might cause this
Enviro Mini circuit board
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Bioburner
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Welcome.
I take it you have a Enviro Mini?
Post some pictures and someone may have a lot better idea of what your trying describe.
May take a while to get response as someone will have to moderate your first few posts.
I take it you have a Enviro Mini?
Post some pictures and someone may have a lot better idea of what your trying describe.
May take a while to get response as someone will have to moderate your first few posts.
Check the spades of the wiring harness and make sure the spade didn't slip under the plastic when connecting the new igniter
these are the pics of the circuit brd as well as the pellet dust I keep getting under the auger ..I think the dust might be a bad bushing ?
Probably the triac ($3) for the ignitor. A triac is a solid state switch for AC loads (like the ignitor). Please take a non-fuzzy picture and post it........
skinanbones
Feeling the Heat
Your triac blew right of the circuit board. Look for it....probably lying inside the stove somewhere. Anyway, the blown triac probably has the same part number as the triac that's on the board, just to the left of the missing one. Read off the numbers on that one. Bet it is part number T835-600B-TR
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And I bet the opto-coupler that drives the triac is blown too. That is the white part nearest the blow triac, part number MOC3041. Check if digikey.com has these parts.
The damage was probably caused by a shorted ignitor, or the wires to the ignitor were shorted together.
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And I bet the opto-coupler that drives the triac is blown too. That is the white part nearest the blow triac, part number MOC3041. Check if digikey.com has these parts.
The damage was probably caused by a shorted ignitor, or the wires to the ignitor were shorted together.
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Note that the metal tab of the new triac needs to be soldered to the rectangular area of the board. And of course the two leads too.
yup got a electronics guy going to do it ...got parts ordered will let ya know how I made out ...prob early Jan ...again th
yup got a electronics person doing the soldering ...I got the parts ordered should be in early Jan will let ya know how I made out ...again thnx for the info !!
Having just bought an Enviro Mini (& waiting on my PelletVent Pro piping to arrive), my curiosity is piqued about your intimate knowledge of this PC board. Are these boards commonly "field" repaired by stove techs? Is the schematic diagram readily available for it? It sounds like you have a solid understanding of its workings...is this a common failure?
Also curious as a noob as to how the ignitor shorts out...to itself or to the stove steel.
Your information is a fine contribution to those of us who own this stove and are handy with electronic repair.
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I am an electronics design engineer....and a lifelong tinkerer/hobbyist. All these pellet stove control board are not that different from each other, they all use triacs to control the AC loads (ignitors, motors) under control of a microprocessor. I don't have a schematic for the Enviro board, but you can usually figure out whats going on by googling the part numbers and inspecting where the visible PC board traces connect. You can see which opto part connects to the blown triac, and I suspect the opto may have gotten blown when the triac blew.
I think that often times when an ignitor fails, the internal nichrome heating element wire melts open at some point, and can then touch the ignitor metal barrel, which is chassis ground, causing excessive current to flow thru the triac switch.
I think that often times when an ignitor fails, the internal nichrome heating element wire melts open at some point, and can then touch the ignitor metal barrel, which is chassis ground, causing excessive current to flow thru the triac switch.
SatMaster : Also, have the electronics Tech check the resistor tight next to the blown triac. Measure before the new triac is installed, the resistor should be 300 ohms.
Can be a huge issue when the convection blower kicks that back up into the heat exchange tubes and literally spews embers out on to the rugs and furniture
GeHmTS
Feeling the Heat
Be aware that anytime you're dealing with boards, make sure that you properly ground yourself and that the stove is properly ground. I've seen components fail due to ESD events. You can simply wear a wrist strap and electrically connect yourself to the stove.
You can fix, but you haven't found root cause. Why did it blow in the first place? Wood fines carries a lot of static electricity, can build up charge and create an ESD event. Keep the board area clean of fines.
You can fix, but you haven't found root cause. Why did it blow in the first place? Wood fines carries a lot of static electricity, can build up charge and create an ESD event. Keep the board area clean of fines.
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His ignitor died and he replaced it. The ignitors sometimes short when the heating element breaks, which caused a high current that popped the triac.
Bioburner
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