Enviro Windsor Won't Run

Marcas

Member
Jan 4, 2009
21
Ireland
I'm hoping that someone may be able to help me with an Enviro Windsor stove which I bought around 15 years ago as the firm from which I bought it is no longer in business and there doesn't seem to be any dealers in my country (Ireland).
I have renewed the igniter a couple of times since I bought the stove, but aside from that it has not given any problems until recently. After replacing the igniter again recently after about 5 years with the previous one, the stove would appear to begin its normal start-up cycle with the light on the control panel coming on and the exhaust fan turning, but then would stop after about 10 seconds and the number 2 heat light would flash. I did the checks in a troubleshooting manual I found on-line except for the one which required a magnahelic gauge but didn't identify a problem. However I then checked the voltage to the igniter after switch-on with a volt meter and there was no reading. I suspect the control panel but would welcome any help in sorting the problem.
 

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johneh

Minister of Fire
Dec 19, 2009
2,966
Eastern Ontario
Here is the manual for 2006 and older
From the Manual



4. Light # 2 on Heat output bar flashing (The Vacuum Switch contacts have opened for more than 15 sec.) üPinch, break or blockage in vacuum hose - check hose for pinch points or damage, replace or re-route as required. Blow out vacuum hose üBlocked hose barb on exhaust channel - use a paper clip to clean out hose barb or remove the vacuum hose from the vacuum switch and blow into the hose to remove blockage. üBlocked exhaust / venting system - have stove and venting cleaned and inspected. üSevere negative pressure in area where unit is installed - check the operation by opening a window, does this solve the problem? If it does, install fresh air intake to unit or room. Venting system may require vertical section to move termination into a low pressure zone. üVacuum switch failure - bypass the vacuum switch, if this corrects the problem check for above problems before replacing the vacuum switch. üDamage to gray wires between circuit board and vacuum switch - inspect wires and connectors üCombustion blower failure - the combustion blower is not turning fast enough to generate the proper vacuum in the exhaust channel. Visual check; is the blower motor turning? Check the exhaust blower voltage across the blower wires (>=114V on #5 setting and >= 82V on #1 setting). – Replace the circuit board if the Voltage reading is less than 82V. with a line voltage >114V AC. üCheck vacuum levels in the exhaust channel by bypassing the vacuum switch, then remove the Vacuum hose from Vacuum Switch. Check exhaust vacuum readings by placing the open end of the Vacuum Hose on a Magnahelic Gauge. (readings must be above .10” W.C. on low fire). If the motor fails to reach a 0.10” W.C. readings, then replace the combustion blower To reset Circuit Board after a trouble code - push the ON/OFF button 5

Also when was the last time your stove was disassembled and cleaned from the door to the end of the ch
 

Marcas

Member
Jan 4, 2009
21
Ireland
Thanks for this. I would be quite regular in cleaning behind the panels inside the stove and the flue pipe. I actually tried to see if the stove would run with the flue disconnected in case it was blocked near the top where I couldn't get to it easily but it made no difference. I have a similar manual to the one for which you sent the link (see picture) and have done a lot of the tests. My stove is 240 volts as that is the mains voltage in this part of world. I didn't test the voltage at the exhaust blower as I felt I should be able to get a voltage reading in the wires going to the igniter when I switched on. Is there any way of testing the control board?
 

johneh

Minister of Fire
Dec 19, 2009
2,966
Eastern Ontario
Have you jumped the vac switch wires?
Will it run? Caution do not let the wires touch ground
have you checked the vac wires for deterioration?
Have you checked the vac hose for deterioration and plugged stove barb?
Your problem sounds like a vac. leak or switch.
How tight are the door seals and what condition?
 

Marcas

Member
Jan 4, 2009
21
Ireland
Thanks for taking the time to come back to me on this again. I made up a short length of cable with spade connector ends and jumped the vac switch wires but this made no difference. I also checked the vacuum hose and hose barb. There was no trace of a blockage and I couldn't see any issue with the wiring. I'm not at home at the moment so can't check the state of the door seals until later. I'm starting from a low knowledge base so I hope you don't mind me asking why you think it is a vacuum issue. Am I incorrect in thinking that I should get a voltage reading when I switch on and the exhaust fan starts turning for about 10 seconds before shutting down?
 

MalcolmH

Member
Jan 22, 2017
60
Ontario
I have the same stove in 120V, the door has a large opening at the top for air wash so there are leaks there from factory. There is a baffle you can get that protects the vacuum barb in the exhaust from getting debris in it, but like mentioned #2 flashing is vacuum switch open for more than 15sec see page #52, here is the technical manual that should include your board, did you check the fuses on the board itself, did you put the vac hose back on the same barb on the vacuum switch itself after doing the ignitor, there are 2 barbs on the vac switch. my 2003 has the auger trim and convection fans off control board DCH2000 but I had to wire a switch for my ignitor as it stays on the entire time the stove is running.

 

MalcolmH

Member
Jan 22, 2017
60
Ontario
Also check the thermostat jumper or thermostat wires to insure they are secure, they could have gotten loosened after you worked in there, but vac switch open for 15sec usually indicates a vac switch or related component issue,vac switch failure, vac ports switched up, vac hose plugged or damaged or loose connections, vac barb plugged, exhaust fan not working properly, or plugged up , there is some voltage values in the technical manual you can check at the exhaust fan to insure it is getting proper power at each heat setting if you can get it to run for any length of time, I assume there is no voltage at the ignitor because the vac switch has been tripped for no vacuum. Always unplug this unit especially before removing the panels as the control board is very exposed and it would be easy to short it out. This stove only has a Vac switch, 200* limit switch with reset button, proof of fire switch, and a convection fan 160* -20* differential limit switch and should be pretty easy to diagnose.
 

Marcas

Member
Jan 4, 2009
21
Ireland
Thanks for trying to help me with this Malcolm. I have checked the vacuum hose and can blow through it easily. It is also connected to the L side of the vacuum switch which is correct according to the manual. I have tried putting a jumper wire to isolate the vacuum switch and none of this made any difference. I removed the inside panels of the stove to check for an ash build-up and found very little. I was also able to check the exhaust blower. It seemed clear of ash and moving freely for around 10 seconds after switch on. If you have any thoughts on what I should try next I would appreciate any suggestions.
 

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MalcolmH

Member
Jan 22, 2017
60
Ontario
So all connections are secure for t-stat and vac. Are you running some type of surge protector?, and where does the Vac switch connect to the stove?, in the exhaust port?, i see no baffle for the vac or damper if that pic is from the inside of the stove. If its flagging vac switch and jumping it makes no difference I'm wondering if the Control board is the issue, which control board do you have, look through the tech manual i posted.
 

Marcas

Member
Jan 4, 2009
21
Ireland
Thanks again Malcolm. The control board looks like a DHC 3000 Generation 2 (see photo). I don't have a surge protector or an external thermostat. I got the stove new and nobody has done anything to it beyond me cleaning it and replacing the igniter until now. It is possible that something has disintegrated in terms of a baffle, but there isn't any evidence of that happening. There is a photo just taken through the door of the stove, while the one showing the fan in my last post is simply a close-up. I have also included a photo of a wiring diagram which shows my set-up i.e. two orange wires from the control panel to the vacuum switch. I have cleaned up the barb for the vacuum pipe at the exhaust end with a paper clip. However it seems to contact something hard and metallic when pushed in about one inch although when I attach the pipe and blow through it seems clear.
I hope I have answered your questions correctly. Do you know if the control board can be repaired if that is the problem?
 

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Marcas

Member
Jan 4, 2009
21
Ireland
Since my last post I have tested the fuse on the control board with a multimeter and it appears fine. I also measured 230 volts across the two wires going to the vacuum switch when the stove was plugged in but not switched on. I also checked the voltage going to the exhaust/combustion blower and it was getting the full 235-240 volts.
 
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MalcolmH

Member
Jan 22, 2017
60
Ontario
Did you disconnect any of the wires on the vac switch and switch them up, mine appears to be connected differently, now maybe thats because your running 240V, here we have 120V (+), a Neutral (-) and a ground (-),.. maybe its a DCH2000 difference, I dunno. My stove also has a baffle siliconed in place inside the exhaust port to protect the vac barb from getting debris in it, it was an afterthought add-on from the factory. And your ignitor doesn't appear OEM.
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Marcas

Member
Jan 4, 2009
21
Ireland
Once again, thanks for spending more time on this Malcolm. You could be correct about the Vacuum switch. When I disconnected it I didn't realise that there were three spade connectors on it. I had put some tape on one wire to remind me that it went to the connection nearest the outside of the fire. I don't think there was ever an earth wire here so perhaps my second orange wire should be plugged in at the back of the switch and the middle connection left blank. The three connections are labelled NO, NC and C but I have no idea what that means. However, it strikes me that if joining the two orange wires to bypass the switch didn't help, that probably isn't the problem.
You are right about the ignitor not being original, but it was identical to one that I had run for about 5 years and listed as suitable for the Enviro Windsor.
Going through the list in the manual, the only things I haven't been able to do is measure the vacuum as I don't have the correct gauge. I also haven't been able to clean the whole way up the flue so I think my next step might be to order a longer flue cleaning brush.
 

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MalcolmH

Member
Jan 22, 2017
60
Ontario
there are only 2 wires for the vac switch. As Ssyko pointed out and you can see on your Honeywell Schematic, 1 wire should always be on "C" and the other wire in our case should be on "NO" normally open, being connect to NO and NC will never complete the circuit and would flag an issue. maybe your spade connectors are getting tired aswell. And yes a complete inspection of the pipe is very wise, is there a horizontal run your not able to access easily, typically thats where you will get build up.
 
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Marcas

Member
Jan 4, 2009
21
Ireland
Thanks to both of you for pointing me in the right direction on the vacuum switch. That hasn't improved the situation, so the next step is to get a better flue cleaning brush. The only horizontal section is a few inches at the back of the stove which is clear. There are however a couple of 45 degree bends higher up which may be causing a problem. I will report back when I have been able to clean them.
 

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
3,035
Lorraine NY
Just for the hell of it try unplugging the igniter wires and try running the stove, If you jumped the vac switch and it didn’t help im thinking there is a diode or voltage regulator on the pcb that has failed. The chip with the red/yellow stickers is the microcontroller that has the programming for the stove operation, if it is damaged or is not getting correct voltage it can fall short on its operating, if you have any electronics/stereo/tv repair shops there im sure they could find the problem and repair it.
 

Marcas

Member
Jan 4, 2009
21
Ireland
I tried sending the control board to a firm that claimed to be able to test and fix a range of electronic products but they just sent it back with a note to say they couldn't no anything for me. Unplugging the wires to the igniter makes no difference: the green on light comes on, the auger light comes on for a few seconds and then after about ten seconds the combustion fan stops and the red number two heat level light comes on
 

Ssyko

Minister of Fire
Nov 6, 2017
3,035
Lorraine NY
short of testing each component on the board im at a loss. Did the company you sent it to test the microcontroller? If it got corrupted the board is done. But i would bet my money on a diode, vr, or a cap that has failed and voltage is missing somewhere
I’ve looked up a few electronics shops in your part of the world and this group claims to fix almost anything. Give them a call or email. They have had some diverse repairs with great reviews.

https://ie.electronic.partners/
 
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Marcas

Member
Jan 4, 2009
21
Ireland
Thanks for going to the bother of doing that. That's the firm to which I sent the board and which said they couldn't test it. I have attached a photo of the document the firm sent back with the board. I would be prepared to buy a new board but I have no idea where I could get one for a 240 volt fire.
 

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MalcolmH

Member
Jan 22, 2017
60
Ontario
I'm pretty sure the control boards all run on same voltage even though your 240V, all the same components, fans, ect., #50-1015 looks to be a match for 2006 Windsor.