Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

Getwidit

New Member
Aug 28, 2019
52
Stuyvesant ny
I see what you're saying.. that brings up another point.. right now my oil furnace is running up a 9x13 clay flu.. I was considering running a 6 inch stainless liner for the wood stove and a 5 inch stainless for the furnace.. it's a straight shot for the oil furnace only 4 feet to the chimney.. the manual says not todo this.. I figured if they had indepenant flu what could it harm.. especially since its going to be rare they run simultaneously... any thoughts? I'm going to make a new thread soon. This is my last question here.
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
I figured if they had indepenant flu what could it harm..
Yeah it should be fine if you run 2 liners. Hopefully you can get insulation on the 6"...even 1/4" would be better than nothing...I'd strive for the standard 1/2" insulation though!
I'll keep an eye out for your new thread
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
Thanks for the info, the stove which I used last winter is a old home made woodboiler that looks like it was converted to just a stove, radiant heat only. I just have it a once over last week and found several cracks in the fire box, and it was incredibly inefficient, only a manual dampener that I would have to adjust ever hour or it burned through a load of wood in an hour or so. I do have electric base boards through the main floor but doubt that’s enough to heat my 1800 sft, (that’s including unfinished basement main floor and half second story) plus I’m don’t really want to pay to run the base boards haha. I’ve been in contact with Lamppa about used VF 200’s and haven’t heard anything back. I should add that I had my home spray foamed when I remodeled the entire house so it is well insulated. I’ve also looked at dimensions of units and think the tundra II and VF200 might be the only unit that will fit through my narrow basement steps. Any more thoughts would be great!
@Jpops , send me a private message, or I can send you one, just let me know.
I have info on an old Kuuma 1 for sale...might be a good interim solution for this winter...
 
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Teglovinvtec

Member
Nov 11, 2016
26
Upstate NY
Guys thinking about adding an adjustable snap disc my furnace is serial number 688 just not getting the duct temps I want. I’d rather fan run hot for a shorter time then longer with cool air. I tried to search this thread but at 116 pages it’s not easy. If anyone knows the location of the disc on mine think it’s gen 1 and a link or details that would be greatly appreciated. Fan setting is at 1 or lowest
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
Guys thinking about adding an adjustable snap disc my furnace is serial number 688 just not getting the duct temps I want. I’d rather fan run hot for a shorter time then longer with cool air. I tried to search this thread but at 116 pages it’s not easy. If anyone knows the location of the disc on mine think it’s gen 1 and a link or details that would be greatly appreciated. Fan setting is at 1 or lowest
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/everything-drolet-tundra-heatmax.140788/post-1895709

Here is a couple that some have used...anything similar would work (other brands, etc)
As far as where it is...on early models it will be on the back...if you have the metal raceway that runs from the back, across the top and in between the 2 duct connectors, then you will find it under that raceway/cover in the middle of the top. The switch with the white wires (IIRC) is the one you want...confirm with the wiring diagram in your owners manual that is the fan control switch though. The switch with the red wires is the high temp limit switch, again, IIRC.
If you can wade through this thread a few pages at a time, it is worth it IMO, lots of valuable info...should answer about any question you'd have on a T1...
You can click to expand my sig line for this link...it will take you to an index of sorts for this thread...at least the first half of it…guess it needs an update for the last 40+ pages... http://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/tundra-heatmax-information-guide.157330/
I think you'll find that the longer the blower runs the more heat is stripped from the flue and put into the house...even if the duct temps are low...now if it is heating the house fine as is and you just want it to shut off sooner...carry on.
 
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Getwidit

New Member
Aug 28, 2019
52
Stuyvesant ny
It might have been touched on but what do people think about a manual damper in your 6 inch exhaust? I have the heat pack and when I want to have a fire in my fire place it makes my heat pack down draft when I'm not using the heat pack. Thinking i could just install a damper and close it when the heat back is not in use to cut down on the smell. I read in the manual not todo this however, but I could have sworn I read of people doing it before in this thread.
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
To use it as you suggest should be okay...just make sure you open it before firing the HP.
Might not totally solve the issue though...manual damper doesn't close of the pipe completely... more like 80%.
Are the two flues tied together?
 

Getwidit

New Member
Aug 28, 2019
52
Stuyvesant ny
To use it as you suggest should be okay...just make sure you open it before firing the HP.
Might not totally solve the issue though...manual damper doesn't close of the pipe completely... more like 80%.
Are the two flues tied together?
No they aren't the fire place is a modern prefab. It draws a ton of air when it drafts that it just pulls from the hp too. I can solve it somewhat also by cracking the basement window as well.
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
Ah I see, yeah makeup air for a fireplace can be a rediculous volume...the main reason they are so inefficient. Probably still need to crack that window when you use it ..the air has to come from somewhere. Does the FP have doors? Running with the doors closed (if you can) would help limit air flow some
 

Getwidit

New Member
Aug 28, 2019
52
Stuyvesant ny
Ah I see, yeah makeup air for a fireplace can be a rediculous volume...the main reason they are so inefficient. Probably still need to crack that window when you use it ..the air has to come from somewhere. Does the FP have doors? Running with the doors closed (if you can) would help limit air flow some
I dont have doors at the moment but I did plan on getting them. It actually kills the draft on the HP when they are both going at the same time as well. I was planning on some sort of a fresh air for it (HP) for when we run both. Plus leave that window open does help for that instance too.
 
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Getwidit

New Member
Aug 28, 2019
52
Stuyvesant ny
Quick question I'm checking the static pressure in my heat pack plenum.. I,m getting around .17. To increase the pressure what do I do? Close dampers or open? Or should I add one more feed from the plenum to the main duct work? Or change the fan settings which I really dont know what they are set to, I'm thinking high.. not sure what factory are.
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
Sounds like you are close enough IMO (call for .20"?) ...I don't worry about SP too much...basically if you are getting good temp rise between the return and the supply temps...good enough.
40-50* temp rise is common with my VF100...was about the same with the Tundra. Gas or oil furnaces often run more like 70* temp rise.
To answer your question though...closing dampers or registers on the supply side will raise SP
 

Getwidit

New Member
Aug 28, 2019
52
Stuyvesant ny
Sounds like you are close enough IMO (call for .20"?) ...I don't worry about SP too much...basically if you are getting good temp rise between the return and the supply temps...good enough.
40-50* temp rise is common with my VF100...was about the same with the Tundra. Gas or oil furnaces often run more like 70* temp rise.
To answer your question though...closing dampers or registers on the supply side will raise SP
Which will in turn increase temps?
 

JRHAWK9

Minister of Fire
Jan 8, 2014
1,236
Wisconsin Dells, WI
Gas or oil furnaces often run more like 70* temp rise.
That's WAY high from what ours is. Our 75KBTU LP furnace has a temp rise of 48° using the LOW speed tap and 42° using the MEDIUM-LOW speed tap. I'm currently using the LOW speed tap as it still falls within spec. These were measured after 15 minutes of the furnace running.
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
Yes...but no point in getting the temp rise too high...start to lose efficiency to a small degree...more cool air over the HX strips heat from the flue gasses better
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
That's WAY high from what ours is. Our 75KBTU LP furnace has a temp rise of 48° using the LOW speed tap and 42° using the MEDIUM-LOW speed tap. I'm currently using the LOW speed tap as it still falls within spec. These were measured after 15 minutes of the furnace running.
Yeah that's probably true...I'm thinking of the old 80% furnaces
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
Yeah you will probably have to cut the closer registers back to push the heat to the further ones...if you want more there. Its a balancing act
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
If you are puling in return air off the basement floor, @JRHAWK9 discovered that pulling return air off the basement ceiling can result in another 5-10* going out the supply ducts. I found it helps too...so I have my return air ducts hooked up this year
 
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Getwidit

New Member
Aug 28, 2019
52
Stuyvesant ny
If you are puling in return air off the basement floor, @JRHAWK9 discovered that pulling return air off the basement ceiling can result in another 5-10* going out the supply ducts. I found it helps too...so I have my return air ducts hooked up this year
That makes a lot of sense my concrete floor is atleast 5-10 degrees lower than my first floor. I'll have the cold air return kit. I just need to install. Which I can see why would make a big difference now.
 

Gbawol42

Member
Dec 16, 2018
71
Northern Michigan
Ok a little question on the heatmax 2, the manual states the blower has 4 speeds. I have never heard the blower change speeds, is it a manual change that I have to do based on static pressure needs? Or is it a variable speed blower based on plenum temps.

I have only heard the blower kick on at , I think, 130 degree and back off at 115 degree. Only one speed heard.
 

brenndatomu

Minister of Fire
Aug 21, 2013
4,417
NE Ohio
is it a manual change that I have to do based on static pressure needs? Or is it a variable speed blower based on plenum temps.
Both...you can change the "normal" speed manually by switching which tap is powered up (just like the T1) or it will switch to high speed if needed...but I think it takes a real hot fire to make it switch...like almost to the point of over firing.
Never have seen anyone say what temp it happens at...would be nice to know. Maybe shoot SBI an email and ask them point blank what temp it switches at...
 

Getwidit

New Member
Aug 28, 2019
52
Stuyvesant ny
Both...you can change the "normal" speed manually by switching which tap is powered up (just like the T1) or it will switch to high speed if needed...but I think it takes a real hot fire to make it switch...like almost to the point of over firing.
Never have seen anyone say what temp it happens at...would be nice to know. Maybe shoot SBI an email and ask them point blank what temp it switches at...
Mine switched to high mode automatically today and I checked the temp and it said 175.
 
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Getwidit

New Member
Aug 28, 2019
52
Stuyvesant ny
Quick question if I add one more 6 inch air duct from my plenum to my main supply duct. Currently i have 6. I'm getting .15ish and that's with most of my first floor ducts closed 70 to 80 percent of the way. If I add one more duct will it increase my sp or decrease? I feel it seems kind of inefficient that most my ducts on the first floor are close so much to get the heat up stairs plus my sp where it should be. Not to mention I heard my fan jump into high mode today so I'm nervous.