Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...

[Mrpelletburner]

I found this write up using the alarm settings, not sure if this will help achieve what I am looking to do.

http://www.brewrigs.com/pid-settings.html

 

[Mrpelletburner]

The temp controller is to keep it blowing hot air when heat is called for.

The mypin controller is used to open/close the draft flap.

 

[brenndatomu]

I found this write up using the alarm settings, not sure if this will help achieve what I am looking to do.

http://www.brewrigs.com/pid-settings.html

I'll post all my settings later on...but you may be wired up differently than I was too.
For me, the hadest part of doing this temp controller mod was setting up the Mypin...I was really regretting not using the same brand/model as @3fordasho so I could cheat off his settings!

 

[brenndatomu]

Ok, I think I get it now. The temp controller is to keep it blowing hot air when heat is called for. I don't have mine hooked up to a t stat. I just load mine and let it put out the heat.

No, not really. The temp controller mod was to control the firebox/flue temp to a level that was not considered "overfired", because that's what SBI was saying was cracking the T1's...people were leaving the manual switch on too long and bouncing off the FACTORY high temp limit switch...maybe their HLS needed to be a little lower temp rating if that was the case?! But that's a different subject for a different day though.
If you wire up the timer, and the temp controller, it makes the Tundra "load n go" because you can put time on the timer and walk away...it will keep the flue temp within your programmed range until the timer runs out...then if you are burning dry wood, the firebox is up to normal operating temp and the secondary combustion is making good heat...so the damper doesn't really need to open again until the next load...unless you need to burn down coals or something.
To me, using the tstat on these things is worthless, I only used the timer...my 2 cents.

 

[Gearhead660]

No, not really. The temp controller mod was to control the firebox/flue temp to a level that was not considered "overfired", because that's what SBI was saying was cracking the T1's...people were leaving the manual switch on too long and bouncing off the FACTORY high temp limit switch...maybe their HLS needed to be a little lower temp rating if that was the case?! But that's a different subject for a different day though.
If you wire up the timer, and the temp controller, it makes the Tundra "load n go" because you can put time on the timer and walk away...it will keep the flue temp within your programmed range until the timer runs out...then if you are burning dry wood, the firebox is up to normal operating temp and the secondary combustion is making good heat...so the damper doesn't really need to open again until the next load...unless you need to burn down coals or something.
To me using the tstat un these things is worthless, I only used the timer...my 2 cents.

I have a timer installed. I load and set it for 20 minutes or so. So the timer is controlling the temp controller?

 

[brenndatomu]

I have a timer installed. I load and set it for 20 minutes or so. So the timer is controlling the temp controller?

No.
The timer gives the heat signal to the damper...damper opens...the temp controller monitors flue temp, closes damper when max temp is met...the controller interrupts the "heat" signal.

 

[Gearhead660]

No.
The timer gives the heat signal to the damper...damper opens...the temp controller monitors flue temp, closes damper when max temp is met...the controller interrupts the "heat" signal.

Got it. They work in parallel with each other. The part about the temp controller adjusting during timer's set time threw me off.

 

[brenndatomu]

I found this write up using the alarm settings, not sure if this will help achieve what I am looking to do.

http://www.brewrigs.com/pid-settings.html

Ok, here is how my Mypin was programmed...this is a TA4-RNR model.
For the LSP menu...the one you get into by pushing/holding ^^ VV at the same time...I will only list the ones that were changed from the default setting it comes with.
Hy1 100
dp 1
All the rest are in the alarm menu...enter by pushing/holding the "set" button.
AL1 350
P Off
1 101
d 50
Hy5 50
b5L PID
C-F F

With Hy1 set at 100, and AL1 set at 350, this will close the damper at 350, re-open at 250...you can change these number to suit your fancy.

The way I have it wired is that terminal 2 goes to - on a 120V relay coil
Terminal 6 goes to the + terminal of the relay (if I had bought a different model Mypin, that had a NC contact, the relay would not be necessary)
Terminal 2 and 5 have a jumper wire between them.
I used the NC contacts of the relay to open the factory high limit switch circuit...so when the relay activates, it opens the circuit, closing the damper.
If you want to use the "coals burn down" feature...terminals 3 and 4 of the Mypin go to the tstat terminals on the furnace...and I don't recall anymore what the change was in the programming to make that work then...I have it disabled now, as I said before...I'm sure it was a simple change in the menu.
Keep in mind that this was on a T1...the T2 is a lot different, so you will need to verify for yourself if it will, or will not work the same...I take no responsibility if you electrocute someone/yourself, fry your control board or some other electrical component, or burn your house down...if you do not have the electrical knowledge to do this safely, either find someone that does, or don't do it at all.
And keep in mind, by doing all this, you are modifying a furnace...that is fire inside your house...and if you need to have an inspection on the install, or the insurance company wants pics, these mods probably won't fly.
Bottom line, if you decide to do this (or any mod discussed here) you assume all risks!

 

[Gbawol42]

Ok, here is how my Mypin was programmed...this is a TA4-RNR model.
For the LSP menu...the one you get into by pushing/holding ^^ VV at the same time...I will only list the ones that were changed from the default setting it comes with.
Hy1 100
dp 1
All the rest are in the alarm menu...enter by pushing/holding the "set" button.
AL1 350
P Off
1 101
d 50
Hy5 50
b5L PID
C-F F

With Hy1 set at 100, and AL1 set at 350, this will close the damper at 350, re-open at 250...you can change these number to suit your fancy.

The way I have it wired is that terminal 2 goes to - on a 120V relay coil
Terminal 6 goes to the + terminal of the relay (if I had bought a different model Mypin, that had a NC contact, the relay would not be necessary)
Terminal 2 and 5 have a jumper wire between them.
I used the NC contacts of the relay to open the factory high limit switch circuit...so when the relay activates, it opens the circuit, closing the damper.
If you want to use the "coals burn down" feature...terminals 3 and 4 of the Mypin go to the tstat terminals on the furnace...and I don't recall anymore what the change was in the programming to make that work then...I have it disabled now, as I said before...I'm sure it was a simple change in the menu.
Keep in mind that this was on a T1...the T2 is a lot different, so you will need to verify for yourself if it will, or will not work the same...I take no responsibility if you electrocute someone/yourself, fry your control board or some other electrical component, or burn your house down...if you do not have the electrical knowledge to do this safely, either find someone that does, or don't do it at all.
And keep in mind, by doing all this, you are modifying a furnace...that is fire inside your house...and if you need to have an inspection on the install, or the insurance company wants pics, these mods probably won't fly.
Bottom line, if you decide to do this (or any mod discussed here) you assume all risks!

This showed me what I was missing, thank you!

I did not understand that you needed to have the P set to off in order for hysteresis to function. Literally a whole day of frustration for one little function. So far this morning we are running as I envisioned on a reload.

 

[brenndatomu]

Literally a whole day of frustration for one little function.

Oh believe me...I understand! If I never have to figure out configuration/programming on one of these things from scratch again it will be too soon!! I contribute more than 1 gray hair to that time!

 

[Case1030]

A1 is used during cold weather to burn down coals. I keep it at 0 untill needed.

A2 is used for regular reload. Depending on the wood I'm burning I adjust it accordingly. Currently I have it 330f open, 450f close. (120f hy)

A1 and A2 can be used in reverse aswell.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

Questions...

Currently I have the Mypin set to close the damper at 500f and reopen at 350f (when calling for heat). The draft is set to ~ -0.06 when the flue temp is 450f.

Couple questions...

1) Is it normal for the fire to die out when the damper is closed for several minutes and the flue temps to drop below 200f? At this point the draft is ~ - 0.05

2) The stove pipe before the BD shows a clean burn. However after the BD, the air being drawn into the BD is creating a thin shiny black coating. Is this because of the cooler air being pulled in or should I bump up the flue temp past 500f?

View attachment 252460

 

[Case1030]

Questions...

Currently I have the Mypin set to close the damper at 500f and reopen at 350f (when calling for heat). The draft is set to ~ -0.06 when the flue temp is 450f.

Couple questions...

1) Is it normal for the fire to die out when the damper is closed for several minutes and the flue temps to drop below 200f? At this point the draft is ~ - 0.05

View attachment 252457

2) The stove pipe before the BD shows a clean burn. However after the BD, the air being drawn into the BD is creating a thin shiny black coating. Is this because of the cooler air being pulled in or should I bump up the flue temp past 500f?

View attachment 252458

View attachment 252459

I don't have a BD... but if the flue temp drops below 200f it's not burning proper.

If you know your wood is seasoned and dry enough you could try...
Bumping your BD to .07 and see if that keeps the combustion going OR put a paper clip/ small nail to keep the air inlet open a bit.

Your flue tempurature (my experience) should stay between 275f-380f during the course of the burn for steady clean heat.

Also are you doing at least 1/2 loads?

Addition: Mypin setting turn on 320f to shutoff 450f (usually cycles 2-3 times then damper stays chit entire burn)

 

[Mrpelletburner]

Also are you doing at least 1/2 loads?

Prob just a bit under ½ of load.

Just to be clear, your Mypin will prevent the stove from over firing by closing the flap?

 

[Case1030]

Prob just a bit under ½ of load.

Just to be clear, your Mypin will prevent the stove from over firing by closing the flap?

Yes, and timer allows the mypin to control the damper for only 1 hour. After that damper stays shut for whole burn duration.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

Yes, and timer allows the mypin to control the damper for only 1 hour. After that damper stays shut for whole burn duration.

So late into the burn cycle, your fire will look like the following?

 

[Case1030]

So late into the burn cycle, your fire will look like the following?

View attachment 252461

Yeah late into the burn I'd say they look similar. How many hours are you on?

 

[brenndatomu]

I wouldn't run the draft over 0.06...asking for trouble IMO. 500* max temp is plenty too...if it's dropping to 200* in a few minutes with 0.06 draft, you have wet wood. Unless this was a real small load, and a totally cold start?
Put a paper clip on the damper so it can't close quite all the way, that helps a lot with sub par wood...

 

[Mrpelletburner]

Added several smaller splits ~⅓ load 3hrs ago.

BD is covered with aluminum foil, draft is -0.06, flue temp is hanging at 235f with a washer keeping the flap open.

 

[Case1030]

I'm curious to see what your burn looks like after about 45min- 60 when the danger stays shut. That would tell alot.

 

[Case1030]

Added several smaller splits ~⅓ load 3hrs ago.

BD is covered with aluminum foil, draft is -0.06, flue temp is hanging at 235f with a washer keeping the flap open.

View attachment 252462

That's open quite a bit more than mine... try it and adjust as needed.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

I wouldn't run the draft over 0.06...asking for trouble IMO. 500* max temp is plenty too...if it's dropping to 200* in a few minutes with 0.06 draft, you have wet wood. Unless this was a real small load, and a totally cold start?
Put a paper clip on the damper so it can't close quite all the way, that helps a lot with sub par wood...

I restocked the basement yesterday and as the wood comes up to ambient temperature, it has that trapped condensation. I have been mixing with 2x4 cuts and the existing stock in the basement. The existing stock is very seasoned wood and trying to use it as a mix in.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

I'm curious to see what your burn looks like after about 45min- 60 when the danger stays shut. That would tell alot.

It is a beautiful site I tell you. The wood is black and chard with a cloud of secondary burn above the fire. The is a gap between the wood and secondary burn.

I will snap a video next time.

 

[Mrpelletburner]

Snapshot of the washer. Figured it would be easier adjusting the gap spacing with washers.

 

[Case1030]

I wouldn't run the draft over 0.06...asking for trouble IMO. 500* max temp is plenty too...if it's dropping to 200* in a few minutes with 0.06 draft, you have wet wood. Unless this was a real small load, and a totally cold start?
Put a paper clip on the damper so it can't close quite all the way, that helps a lot with sub par wood...

I agree with the excessive draft @brenndatomu. Unsafe conditions can also happen when to large of a nail is used in the damper. It seems like small adjustments make a huge difference.

Also I went to the manual. They state .04-.06 is ideal and not exceed 0.08.

All I meant by suggesting .07 is that it should have the same effect as adding a nail. I'd rather bump the draft up then risk a nail jamming the damper open.