Jb616gc In reference to your comment that appears to have been removed about pulling the filter.. i think the older fellas mean if your not home to deal with it. Id say so long you have solid duct far enough out from plenum an good clearances around duct pipe it would prob be ok ya know. I just thought it was good advice from some of the guys on here about considering what may occur in a power outage an we cant be around to deal with it. Double D had good points about air flow and hes right i noticed better airflow on side to side setup over front to back. I think it was double d who commented there.
Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
- Thread starter brenndatomu
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I would like to add a note to those that are new to the Tundra, don't get me wrong this is only my second year so I am still new myself.
One thing that I have noticed that greatly impacts the heat output is cleaning the heat exchanger tubes, you might not have to clean the chimney but I recommend you clean the exchanger tubes about once a month. It's very easy to do. Here is what I do and keeps it fast and simple.
Purchase one length of chimney cleaning rod.
I use a poly brush 6", I attach the cleaning rod to the end of a cordless drill and run it back and forth. Vacuum it out and your done.
I like to make the cleaning brush about 1" larger than the tube size. 6" is perfect for both sides and 7" for middle.
Quick and easy
Believe me it makes a difference
Hope this helps
Merry Christmas !!
One thing that I have noticed that greatly impacts the heat output is cleaning the heat exchanger tubes, you might not have to clean the chimney but I recommend you clean the exchanger tubes about once a month. It's very easy to do. Here is what I do and keeps it fast and simple.
Purchase one length of chimney cleaning rod.
I use a poly brush 6", I attach the cleaning rod to the end of a cordless drill and run it back and forth. Vacuum it out and your done.
I like to make the cleaning brush about 1" larger than the tube size. 6" is perfect for both sides and 7" for middle.
Quick and easy
Believe me it makes a difference
Hope this helps
Merry Christmas !!
That is pretty amazing, how does it do that? I would love to call your bluff. But we all know you are a straight shooter and know what you are talking about.
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
ya I deleted as I hadn't read everything that was said. All my ducting is metal no flex lots of clearance. No concern there. Trust me I almost had a duct melt an abs pipe when I had hotblast so everything has been gone over. I'm most concerned with getting the most efficiency as my house is on the upper end of the rated capacity for the tundra. I would've looked for something bigger but previously in this thread you can see what I had to go through just to get this thing into my basement and the old hotblast out.
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
Maybe that's partly my issue is they're due for a cleaning. I have been running 24/7 for a while now so haven't had a chance to look. Temps going up this week so perfect opportunity
I dunno how the heck you get such high duct temps...the highest I have EVER seen was 129*...usually running 115-120, maybe 125* for a bit after a re-load.
The front duct is by far the hottest, and the back one is the coolest one...using the 2 side holes and the front one all dumping into my main trunk line works pretty good for me (got dampers on all 3 to set "plenum" static pressure)
Say what!? Older?! Who?
Sign of a well insulated/air sealed home...along with a properly "tuned" and operated furnace
jb6l6gc
Minister of Fire
Beat me to it! I was just thinking that I need to remind y'all to clean those HE's regular like. I do mine about once a week now...usually dig out some ashes and clean the HE's on Sunday evening. I have been using my Soot Eater to clean my tubes...really works well, fast too.
Like Brenn mentioned...insulation and airsealing is key. The tighter and more insulated a home is, the less time you worry about temperatures both inside and out. While a coalbed doesn't produce a ton of heat, when the house slowly drops in temperature, the coalbed can still slow or maintain a level of comfort. It's taken time for us, and there's still room for improvement, but there's a night and day difference from then to now.
One thing that I am increasing thinking is that the Caddy has a leg up on the T1 because...
(1) the full plenum is probably a little better at capturing usable heat from hot coals. (we'll see with the T2)
(2) the front of the firebox being inside the air jacket is a biggy, it takes advantage of that intense heat at the beginning of the burn cycle, and then again toward the second half of the burn, there is hot coals heat to be had here from the front of the firebox. After all, it is the only part of the firebox that is not double insulated...
Like @Digger79 said of his Tundra in the garage, lots of heat being "lost" that those of us with the furnace in the basement can take at least some advantage of. If anybody ever installed one in the living space, (slab house) they would see efficiencys the rest of us can only dream of with all that radiant heat available...she'd be a heat monster! I have seen pictures of a Mini Caddy set up in the living room like a stove, it looked pretty cool!
(1) the full plenum is probably a little better at capturing usable heat from hot coals. (we'll see with the T2)
(2) the front of the firebox being inside the air jacket is a biggy, it takes advantage of that intense heat at the beginning of the burn cycle, and then again toward the second half of the burn, there is hot coals heat to be had here from the front of the firebox. After all, it is the only part of the firebox that is not double insulated...
Like @Digger79 said of his Tundra in the garage, lots of heat being "lost" that those of us with the furnace in the basement can take at least some advantage of. If anybody ever installed one in the living space, (slab house) they would see efficiencys the rest of us can only dream of with all that radiant heat available...she'd be a heat monster! I have seen pictures of a Mini Caddy set up in the living room like a stove, it looked pretty cool!
Yeah if the tundra was in my house it would be 80 plus all the time. with the windows open.
I know lol Im almost 40 now so your right you guys aren't that much older anymore. lol. Any ways I dunno Brenn my ducts get well over 200 deg at times 10-20 ft out I saw almost 300 on the old model about 10 ft away. at the registers I think the hottest I've felt was around 150 or so. U know its hot when you can smell it. lol.I dunno how the heck you get such high duct temps...the highest I have EVER seen was 129*...usually running 115-120, maybe 125* for a bit after a re-load.
The front duct is by far the hottest, and the back one is the coolest one...using the 2 side holes and the front one all dumping into my main trunk line works pretty good for me (got dampers on all 3 to set "plenum" static pressure)
Say what!? Older?! Who?
Sign of a well insulated/air sealed home...along with a properly "tuned" and operated furnace
maple1
Minister of Fire
Firm believer here in regular frequent HX cleanings. I don't have a Tundra - or a furnace. But my boiler has tubes, and Sunday mornings seem to be the time they get brushed. Seems to fit in with the rest of the lazy day, only takes 5 minutes or so and I usually do it between a couple other puttering things I put off all week. And a coffee.
I would love to have my Tundra indoors. If I owned my home I would dress out a corner for it with stone and build false removable walls around it to make it look like a built in wood furnace. Some day. I don't care what anyone tells you renting is not cheaper. I have thrown 150k in the toilet over 15-20 years. I could have only insurance and property tax by now if I could buy. Yeah I get the repair costs of homeownership but I am a fully licensed 15 yr GC and a 25 year carpentar.. Im not scared of home maintenance or repairs. Damn banks. lol sorry bout that tangent.
Darbycrash
Member
Hey guys! I thought I would sneak into the thread since I just picked up the 1st gen Tundra at Menards (very well could of been the last one in the state of Michigan) for $799.00
I have been lurking this thread for the past year or so, so I am aware of the cracking issues. I will be picking up the unit on Monday so I am not sure if they will have added the door firebrick at this point or not. If not, I plan on doing this myself. I guess my biggest concern right now is the 8 inch ducting from the unit to my current plenum, and also the return line.
My first question that relates to the 8 inch supply lines is: Would it be OK to run a 8 inch solid HVAC galv pipe about 30 inches or so up from the unit and then elbow into flex duct and run that the rest of the way to my plenum? I will be adding pictures soon of my current LP and plenum set up.
Secondly, Will I be OK not tying into the current return air plenum for about a year or so until I make more space to do so?
My house is smaller, 1300 sqft 2 story with a basement. Chimney will be an exterior 5.5 inch SS lined at 30ft. in height. I will be using a BARO.
I have been lurking this thread for the past year or so, so I am aware of the cracking issues. I will be picking up the unit on Monday so I am not sure if they will have added the door firebrick at this point or not. If not, I plan on doing this myself. I guess my biggest concern right now is the 8 inch ducting from the unit to my current plenum, and also the return line. My first question that relates to the 8 inch supply lines is: Would it be OK to run a 8 inch solid HVAC galv pipe about 30 inches or so up from the unit and then elbow into flex duct and run that the rest of the way to my plenum? I will be adding pictures soon of my current LP and plenum set up.
Secondly, Will I be OK not tying into the current return air plenum for about a year or so until I make more space to do so?
My house is smaller, 1300 sqft 2 story with a basement. Chimney will be an exterior 5.5 inch SS lined at 30ft. in height. I will be using a BARO.
Welcome to the jungle Darby! Sounds like you stole that baby, I didn't pay too much less than that for a cracked one! As far as the flex duct, code says all supply side ductwork on solid fuel furnaces must be metal. Can you get away with flex...maybe...maybe not...you a gambler? I know I wouldn't be when it comes to my house and family...
As to the return air issue, it will work OK without tying in as long as there is a door left open or some way of getting the air back down there. Now then, as soon as you can tie it in, it will work even better.
Chimney sounds good. Try to keep your stove pipe setup as short and as straight as possible, use 45s instead of 90s if there is any way to avoid it.
Darbycrash
Member
Now I just have to figure out how to get this thing down my stairs. Probably should put some reinforcement on my steps ans strip down the unit as much as possible.
I was wondering.....I plan on buying the 5.5 inch liner kit from NLE which comes with the two part Tee. Is the Tee snout likely to be 6"? I cant seem to find any 5.5 to 6" reducers. also, will the bottom of the tee be 6 inch?
Has anyone used Northline's chimney liner DiY kits?
I was wondering.....I plan on buying the 5.5 inch liner kit from NLE which comes with the two part Tee. Is the Tee snout likely to be 6"? I cant seem to find any 5.5 to 6" reducers. also, will the bottom of the tee be 6 inch?
Has anyone used Northline's chimney liner DiY kits?
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Yes, I believe so. Better double check with them before you order...
Merry Christmas wood burners!
sloeffle
Minister of Fire
Spent a couple hours today cleaning the Caddy. Cleaned out the heat exchangers and firebox. I also swept the chimney.
I took apart the secondary burn tubes because I noticed that on one of the tubes not all of the holes had flames coming out of them. I generally vacuum each tube as part of my monthly cleaning. Taking apart the tubes was an hour of my life I wish I could get back. A couple of the cotter pins were a total PITA to get out. A tiny bit of powder came out of each burn tube. I'll stick with vacuuming them out.
We have had the furnace for 5 years and burn approximately 2 cords a year. It is not our main source of heat so that is why I don't burn a much as some. Our house is insulated pretty good too.
I took apart the secondary burn tubes because I noticed that on one of the tubes not all of the holes had flames coming out of them. I generally vacuum each tube as part of my monthly cleaning. Taking apart the tubes was an hour of my life I wish I could get back. A couple of the cotter pins were a total PITA to get out. A tiny bit of powder came out of each burn tube. I'll stick with vacuuming them out.
We have had the furnace for 5 years and burn approximately 2 cords a year. It is not our main source of heat so that is why I don't burn a much as some. Our house is insulated pretty good too.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Hey Digger, those numbers make me wonder, are you sure your ductwork gives you enough cfm to carry heat out of your furnace? That temp rise is 2 or 3 times as much as my Tundra setup. Not saying that mine is right, but that sure seems hot.
Yeah, the pins need to be straightened to both come out and go in easily. It takes me a couple of minutes to pull them and place back in, but I've done it many times. I put just enough bend on the back of the pins to keep them from coming out (lost a tube one time during a good burn). A flat blade screwdriver is what I use to remove.
Darbycrash
Member
The Tundra is being delivered on Wednesday morning by Menards. They are even going to be putting it in the basement for me! I started clearing a spot and drawing up a duct work plan. The previous owner had a add on sitting in this area at some point, however they removed it and cemented over the clean out and thimble pipes into the chimney. I got them both knocked out as you can see if the picture below. They also decided to fill the holes that they g routed over with a pair of blue jeans, Walmart bags, insulation, burlap sacks....and dirt. You would not believe it if I told you but there were about 20-25 mosquitoes!! They sealed it off downstairs, but never covered the top up so moisture and bugs got in there over who knows how long.
In the picture below, I am going to add a 11x48x4 inch plenum off of the existing 7x7 plenum that has 2, 6" ducts coming out of it. I plan on running both 8 inch lines from the Drolet into the existing duct work right there.
I also plan on adding a few reinforcement 4x4 and 2x4's to the stairs.
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/basement1-webp.191285/ "[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...")
![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/basement3-webp.191287/ "[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...")
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![[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/basement5-webp.191289/ "[Hearth.com] Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...")
In the picture below, I am going to add a 11x48x4 inch plenum off of the existing 7x7 plenum that has 2, 6" ducts coming out of it. I plan on running both 8 inch lines from the Drolet into the existing duct work right there.
I also plan on adding a few reinforcement 4x4 and 2x4's to the stairs.
