Extending andirons. Any thoughts?

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Dmitry

Minister of Fire
Oct 4, 2014
1,151
CT
I have a large flush insert with big firebox but it's really shallow and sometimes I worry about top big piece (and it's 22'') rolling toward my glass. I know it's not a disaster but still.
I was thinking about putting some kind of iron pipes on a top of andirons.
I think it might help me to put more wood in a stove. I'm not talking about stuffing it, just extra piece or two.

The andirons are rectangular, about 3 inches high. I'm thinking about getting some pipe at HD and fitting it on a top of it.
 
Do it! I can see no problems if you extend your andirons.
 
Anything you put in there has to survive thousands of degrees of heat for a very long period of time and even then you would probably need to replace that periodically. Sounds like a hassle, but ifthere is a will, there is a way.
 
I worry about top big piece (and it's 22'') rolling toward my glass. I know it's not a disaster but still.
So did I - I just make sure my last top piece is a triangular split that fits just right.
 
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I don't even have andirons anymore. the manufacturer recommended taking them out completely, in order to load the stove full of wood, to get a long burn time. The burn times they advertise can't be reached without stocking the insert to the glass. I do like TedyOH does: just use the shape of the wood to make sure it won't fall...or make sure it falls INTO the stove, not against the glass.
 
I have a large flush insert with big firebox but it's really shallow and sometimes I worry about top big piece (and it's 22'') rolling toward my glass. I know it's not a disaster but still.
I was thinking about putting some kind of iron pipes on a top of andirons.
I think it might help me to put more wood in a stove. I'm not talking about stuffing it, just extra piece or two.

The andirons are rectangular, about 3 inches high. I'm thinking about getting some pipe at HD and fitting it on a top of it.
I have the same flush, rectangular, shallow shape insert. Often thought of installing some sort of spikes in the front about 4-6" high. I just take care in loading, keep round pieces to the first level.
 
The melting temp of aluminum is 1200 degrees, and steel is much higher than that. So put some steel extenders on there and fire it up, the day that you melt your steel andirons is going to be a real bad day for you anyway, just make sure your homeowners insurance is paid up on that day.
 
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Load some shorter splits n/s unless the firebox is really that shallow
It's 24" wide in front and goes to 20 " in a back . Besides the floor is not completely flat right behind the door , so n/s is not an option .
The w/e loading works great . I'm just looking to increase amount of wood I can load safely.
 
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The melting temp of aluminum is 1200 degrees, and steel is much higher than that. So put some steel extenders on there and fire it up, the day that you melt your steel andirons is going to be a real bad day for you anyway, just make sure your homeowners insurance is paid up on that day.
My thought exactly. I'm gonna find some iron pipe and just put it on adirons and see what happens . It's a shame to have 3,0 c.ft and use 2,5 or so
 
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Here is the pics
image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 
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You have devised a good plan, as simple as can be. Fire it up!
 
How's it working?
 
It's been busy couple days. Didn't do it yet . I'll follow up with results when done .
 
I found galvanized tube in my basement. It is exact fit for my andirons. The only concern is if Zinc from galvanization might affect the cat somehow. Did online research and found nothing alarming. Any thoughts?
 
I would stay away from the galvanized, get some cast iron.
 
as a welder I say no go on galvanized. The gas coming off is poisonous. But mild steel should hold up just fine in the configuration you describe and is certainly worth trying. My input from a welder and blacksmith is you ain't melting them down anytime soon. The best and longest lasting option would be stainless tube.

I added perforated stainless 1/8" plates between my tubes and tiles at the top of my NC30 to add a little insurance against a split or poker damaging them inadvertently and they have been there 3 yrs performing perfectly. And they get HOT!!!
 
as a welder I say no go on galvanized. The gas coming off is poisonous. But mild steel should hold up just fine in the configuration you describe and is certainly worth trying. My input from a welder and blacksmith is you ain't melting them down anytime soon. The best and longest lasting option would be stainless tube.

I added perforated stainless 1/8" plates between my tubes and tiles at the top of my NC30 to add a little insurance against a split or poker damaging them inadvertently and they have been there 3 yrs performing perfectly. And they get HOT!!!
Thank you , it's nice to hear from professional .
Where can I get it?
I did quick search online and there is nothing in HD and L , just some vendors online.
What kind of local shop might carry them ?
 
Contact a welding shop, steel fabrication shop, or steel distributor. Possibly even s scrap shop but seriously you are in need of nearly nothing as far as weight and work to produce. Best would be to stop by and tell them what you want to do and what you need w dimensions. They should have square tube that fits right over the existing without any slop. You need like 3-4 6" pieces right? Probably have it in a "drops" bucket. If you were in mid Michigan we would likely give it to you.

If the gals stuff you have would work except for the galv issue. Take that w you and show them. Tell them what you are doing and that you want similar in mild steel. They will hook you up.

Note: I am a former welder and fabricator by trade but work in another capacity now. That said I still play in the fab shop a lot. Forge all my fire tools and custom Damascus knives(picks of all that stuff can be found on this site somewhere). I'm no expert but I do know heat and steel.

A fabrication shop will have or produce what you need for very little cost. If the price seems high look elsewhere. HD lowes. Etc. won't have it. They just do not deal in that kind of stuff.

I just looked at your what about this link and that black pipe is mild steel and would hold up fine. I was guessing you were looking for square tube. If that works go for it. If you need square or round in a different inside dimension follow the above suggestion.

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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