F-600 Baffle Question

[schortie]

To keep a long story short, the baffle on my F-600 was futzed with today. During the futzing, and when replacing it, I notice that where the secondary burn manifold meets the back of the stove, there doesn't seem to be any real attachment to the secondary air holes in the back plate of the stove. It just "fits" into the holes on the back of the stove on both sides. There is a screw/washer at the top of each side, but not much else. Since the whole manifold shifted during the futzing I didn't really get a good look at how it was prior to the movement.

Can anyone confirm that this is how it's supposed to be? I'm hoping nothing got really messed up. It is sitting back in what seems to be the original position, just looking for confirmation.

Thanks in advance.

 

[topoftheriver]

To keep a long story short, the baffle on my F-600 was futzed with today. During the futzing, and when replacing it, I notice that where the baffle meets the back of the stove, there doesn't seem to be any real attachment. It just "fits" into the back of the stove on both sides. There is a screw/washer at the top of each side, but not much else. Since the baffle shifted during the futzing I didn't really get a good look at how it was prior to the movement.

Can anyone confirm that this is how it's supposed to be? I'm hoping nothing got really messed up. It is sitting back in what seems to be the original position, just looking for confirmation.

Thanks in advance.

I have a f 500 oslo which is the next smaller stove to yours. I have never notice that before. I am in the process of replacing the baffle and from the diagrams it appears to rest on top of the burning tubes against the back wall. I would like to ask about the term you used, "futzed". I have not heard of it before. Is it an industry term or some kind of stove talk slang? Just curious because I don't know what it refers to. Are you using a steel baffle or vermiculite? I have vermiculite which came with the stove 10+ years ago. Never noticed it moved or not. Back at you!

 

[schortie]

Sorry, I used the wrong term. The secondary burn manifold is what I was talking about. The baffle plates are pretty straight forward.

When I say "futzed", I just meant that it got messed with. To tell the whole story, I decided to hire a "professional" sweep. Supposedly he's licensed, but he began by trying to take the insides of the stove apart to sweep from the inside of the stove. When I saw what he was doing, I kinda freaked and told him he might just want to take the black pipe off the stove and sweep from the ceiling box instead. "Yeah, that's a good idea." he said. Professional indeed. I'll be doing my own sweeping from here on out. I just wanted a pro to do an inspection.

I got my nose into the replacing of the secondary manifold, plates and insulation blanket, and I think it's alright. But because I'm a nervous nilly, I was just looking for confirmation. I have a very small kindling fire going and it looks like all's well. Since it won't be under 50 till tomorrow, I'll give a go with a real fire then.

 

[webby3650]

It sounds like most sweeps. Sorry to say but they don't know much about stoves. Flues, ya, but not most modern stoves. As long as the baffle is in tact, moved all the way to the back, then it should be ok. Does your stove have the 2 piece Cast Iron baffle?

 

[schortie]

Yep, we have the two baffle plates and they're getting warped. My question was really about the secondary burn manifold.

 

[webby3650]

It shouldn't really be movable. It's kinda in place or not. I'd say your in good shape, unless this guy really went to town!

 

[remkel]

Well, he did better than me. Still trying to figure out hoe the secondary tubes are removed.

 

[schortie]

Remkel, he didn't remove the tubes. He pulled the entire manifold from the back of the stove - tubes and all. He was trying to remove the tubes, but I had to tell him it wasn't going to happen.

Still hoping someone knows if there's something that needs to happen to make sure this connection is how it's supposed to be.

Webby, this guy went to town. It seems like it's back in place. Guess I'll find out tonight when it cools down enough to have a real fire.

 

[jotulguy]

they need to be recemented into the 2 ports in the top rear of the stove. to do this you will have to remove the top. get high temp stove cement and apply liberally. then bolt the manifold back in with the 10 mm bolts.

 

[begreen]

Sounds like he doesn't know Jotuls which is odd for a sweep. The top comes off for cleaning, no need to pull the manifold.

 

[schortie]

Thanks for all of the info. I got back in there, cemented and tightened the bolts. Had a fire last night and got sweaty sitting directly in front of the stove to make sure it was burning correctly. Looks like all's well. If nothing else, I gained a much better understanding of the stove inerds.

The sweep was a nightmare. After ripping apart all of the stove parts he told me there was no way he was getting up on the roof because he didn't have a ladder that could get to the top of the chimney. I informed him that it's two sections of pipe and after a coupla bolts and unscrewing the top section he'd have an easy time of it. ( I suppose I should have taken that advice myself). He said no, he was going to do it from below. I had to walk him through how to take apart my telescoping black pipe and how to get it back into place - which he didn't do correctly. It wasn't joined to the ceiling box and the collar that snaps together wasn't even set in the correct place. I was so ready to get rid of him by that point I figured I'd just do it myself.

Had I not known, and started a fire, I'd have burned my ceiling and filled my house with smoke at the very least. As I said earlier, I'm gonna go get a brush and do it myself from now on. So much for saving me the trouble.

FWIW I got their name: DR. FLUE through one of the google ads at the bottom of a page from this site. If there's any way you guys could make sure that they don't get to advertise here, it would be a good idea.