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"when felling a tree with a lean or you need a perfect drop zone" and bucking. The differnt size and taper is use according to size of the tree. It sounds like you are not droping alot of tree's so the basic's would be 5.5 to 8 in. rifle's groove are great because you can stack them really well when you need more lift. cant imagine wooding without atleast a 5.5 to keep the saw from being pinched
Not just for falling. I use them more for bucking than falling. Anytime there is risk of bar pinch, set a couple wedges at the top to hold the cut open while you finish. Mostly the 5 or 6 inch sizes. buy a bunch of sizes.
How are they used?
Mostly to keep the tree from setting back on the bar and pinching the saw and to persuade the tree to fall in the prefered direction, also when bucking to keep the log from pinching the bar.
Where are they used?
Behind the bar in the kerf
And…
When are these used?
whenever you feel your bar may be pinched
falling or felling is more regional dialect and use.
we could standardize and just use the term 'F'ing wedges' which may be more appropriate at times anyway, especially when thing don't go the way intended.
So...when you use these when felling a tree, do you's carry a hammer with you to pound these into the kerf as you cut the thru the notch to get the tree to fall where you want?
And i can see there usefulness when bucking, i typically cut 3/4 thru then roll the log over, but with a wedge, you could go right thru.
(smokinJ...i typically drop any where from 15 to 20 trees a yr for my wood burning needs...anything from 8-10" to 20" BHD, maple, ash, and locust)
So...when you use these when felling a tree, do you's carry a hammer with you to pound these into the kerf as you cut the thru the notch to get the tree to fall where you want?
And i can see there usefulness when bucking, i typically cut 3/4 thru then roll the log over, but with a wedge, you could go right thru.
(smokinJ...i typically drop any where from 15 to 20 trees a yr for my wood burning needs...anything from 8-10" to 20" BHD, maple, ash, and locust)
I bought a bunch of assorted plastic wedges and found they don't last all that long if you're really fighting heavy leaners. I've since found steel wedges are much more valuable for tipping heavy leaners. When I use the steel wedges, I start the cut and then insert a couple of plastic wedges and start banging them in as I go. Once the saw (bar) is completely clear of the wedges, or I'm done cutting, I'll insert a steel wedge or two if I know I have a lot of beating to do to get the tree over. The steel wedges work SO much better, they have more lift and they can take the beating... but I only use them when I know I'll have to really work to get the tree over, otherwise I just use the plastic.
I've been quite pleased with the redhead plastic wedges for bigger stuff, and they stack well, too. The orange cheap-o wedges take a beating and end up deformed when used hard.
Pounding is done with the back side of an axe, or with a mini-sledge on the smaller stuff.
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