Final air adjustment of the day

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kenny chaos

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Apr 10, 2008
1,995
Rochester,ny
FYI I'm using a Lopi Liberty; I get the stove top up to temp (350-600 depending on how much heat we need- 350 being minimum to bring on the "sweet spot"), char any new logs, and in a few increments, close down the air enough to bring on and maintain secondary flames (the sweet spot). As it dies down, I continually add more air a little at a time to maintain flameage until it's time for a refill. While I'm getting my beauty sleep I know that after reaching the original sweet spot, the flames eventually die down and it smolders all night because it doesn't get additional air as it needs it. It confuses me that these EPA, energy efficient, blah, blah, blah, stoves are left to smolder every night and all day when nobody is home to tend them. Or am I wrong?
What do you experienced fellas do? Should I leave it with a little more air than it really needs so it'll burn efficiently a little longer?
How hard or expensive could it be to add a thermo flame sensor which controlled air intake or a combustion fan? Just "set it, and forget it."
Thanks-
 
When you get to coal is is not smoldering smoke, look outside when the secondaires stop should be clean air out of the pipe
 
Combustion fan? I don't think so. All you'd be doing is turning your stove into a forge and sending your fuel consumption through the roof. These stoves are designed to operate strictly with natural convection. If you've got a good involved fire going, then you should be able to very nearly shut the primary and go to bed. The stove will do its thing the best it can with the fuel load you've given it. Rick
 
trailblaze,

exactly my point, if its to that caol stage its clean burning from then till reload.
 
You're overthinking it. Shut the draft down tight and go to bed once you've charred the wood and are into the actual burn stage. In the morning you will find clean stove glass, a tan stove interior and maybe some coals for a relight.
 
Highbeam said:
You're overthinking it. Shut the draft down tight and go to bed once you've charred the wood and are into the actual burn stage. In the morning you will find clean stove glass, a tan stove interior and maybe some coals for a relight.

Overthinking it? You know me quite well. But ya gotta admit, I have been studying it. Actually, I'v been blessed with a large bed of coals in the morns.
Never mind.....
 
fossil said:
Combustion fan? I don't think so. All you'd be doing is turning your stove into a forge and sending your fuel consumption through the roof. These stoves are designed to operate strictly with natural convection. If you've got a good involved fire going, then you should be able to very nearly shut the primary and go to bed. The stove will do its thing the best it can with the fuel load you've given it. Rick

Okay, I'm not over thinking it. I'm obsessing a little, maybe.
Rick- I agree with you that "the stove will do its thing the best it can" but it could do it better. I'm thinking about my riteway (1975) which had an automatic air control. It was like a magnetic thermostat with a tiny chain hooked to the door of the air intake. As the stove got hotter, the "thermostat" would slowly close the air and as it cooled, it would open the door. Pretty simple and some what effective.

It is obvious that in order to get the most energy out of a load of logs the secondaries (thermo flame sensor) must be kept going but as it goes through the burning cycle, the secondaries quit and need small amounts of air added to keep them going (automatic air intake). Using the heat of the stove to conduct the electricity needed, it was just a suggestion that a small, properly sized fan might be easier to power than a mechanical door for the air opening.

I am surprised by how little increments of air are required to see sgnificant change in the fire.

C'mon, share the vision.
 
I have the same question. I don't think I'm "over thinking it" either, I'm still learning.

I'll confess, I don't know if my wood is a seasoned as it should be (meter on the way). I have a Regency I2400 and I can get a nice fire burning with the air wide open. Stovetop temp only gets to 450, wide open. If I try to cut the air down some I can't get a good secondary burn and it will smoke from the chimney. So I let it burn wide open (450 degrees) until it burns to coals 3-4 hours later.

This morning I get up and get the fire going good again with the coals that were left. Before leaving for work I cut the air about half way, lazy looking fire. I'm hoping to extend the burn for the day while at work. I go to leave and the chimney is smoking (not too much, not too little, but more than it should). I went back in and opened the air full again where it will run at 450 stovetop until the load is burned (3-4 hours).

BioBricks are a whole 'nuther story in that I can cut air and get an awesome secondary burn and incredible burn times with no smoke.

So back to the question of leaving your stove to smoke/smolder all day? Smoke=bad in an EPA stove or you'll be running a creosote factory?
 
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