Fired up new member!

[C6pilot]

Hi, after finding myself on this site time after time while researching the ins and outs of wood stoves, I've finally signed up with anticipation of having 1000 questions now that I've actually acquired a stove. After pouring over lots of info and weighing the pros and cons of wood vs pellet and insert vs free standing, I've decided to go with a Quadra-Fire 4300 with a new flue in a central location as opposed to an insert.

I found a used 2010 QF4300 on eB and hauled it home yesterday. It seems to be in good condition. Good brick, good baffle boards, new blanket in box, good blower, good glass, fair tubes. So far, I know I have to reattach the ACC rear timer lever. It attaches to the timer via allen wrench with an odd orientation. I can't believe it didn't fall off during transport because it was just hanging on the pin without being tightened.

I know an insert would have cost less to install but the fireplace isn't in the best location. My sunroom is more centrally located in my rancher with the master bedroom through one door and dining, kitchen, living rooms through a 7' doorway on the other side. Other 2 bedrooms not as important. So, out of about 2500' total I figure I really only need to heat is about 1500'. There's also a ceiling fan in the sunroom which should help distribute the heat.

Now I just need to coax my chimney guy over here to figure out the best location to go through the roof. I already have ice dam issues on my new roof even though it has ice n water-shield installed over the entire low slope roof. It didn't work as the roofer "promised". I let him talk me out of installing a rubber roof instead of a "guaranteed" (LOL) super-duper, shingle roof. Shame on me. So I'll see what the chimney guy recommends. Hopefully he knows more than the roofing "professional" when it comes to cutting holes in a roof for a flue.

I'm working on getting a few cords cut and stacked for 2015-16. I have some seasoned wood on my property as well as some my neighbor doesn't want for next winter. I'll probably also buy some "seasoned" wood with hopes of drying it out by next winter to supplement what I have. I burned about 750 gals of oil this year (so far) and hope to put a HUGE dent into that next year. I have no idea how many cords I'll need on hand or exactly how many hours I can burn.

So, thanks again for all the help you guys have given by answering others questions so that I may learn too. Please feel free to offer any suggestions you may have to help me get the most out of my stove, saws or splitter listed in my sig.

Joe

 

[yooperdave]

Welcome Joe! There will be lots of advice for you to consider...just ask.
Sounds like you've been "lurking" for awhile, so you know all the basics, right??

 

[Grisu]

Welcome Joe!

I already have ice dam issues on my new roof even though it has ice n water-shield installed over the entire low slope roof. It didn't work as the roofer "promised". I let him talk me out of installing a rubber roof instead of a "guaranteed" (LOL) super-duper, shingle roof.

Did you talk to your roofer about airsealing, insulating and adding ventilation to your attic? All that should minimize ice dams.

I burned about 750 gals of oil this year (so far) and hope to put a HUGE dent into that next year. I have no idea how many cords I'll need on hand or exactly how many hours I can burn.

You will need quite a few cords. I would plan on at least 4 if you can find the time to keep the stove humming. Quick estimate:

1 gl oil = 140,000 BTU => 750 gl = 105,000,000 BTU (not counting hot water etc.)
Assuming 80% efficient furnace: 84 million BTU
1 cord hardwood = ~ 20 million BTU (http://forestry.usu.edu/htm/forest-products/wood-heating)
=> 4.2 cords but that would assume a stove with 100% efficiency. At 66% efficiency you are looking at ~6.3 cords if you wanted to replace your oil use completely.

Thus, the 4300 is probably a bit undersized but I assume you knew that already.

Are you using a certified sweep for the install? http://www.csia.org/search

 

[C6pilot]

Welcome Joe! There will be lots of advice for you to consider...just ask.
Sounds like you've been "lurking" for awhile, so you know all the basics, right??

I conservatively estimate I might know half the basics present in my avatar.

 

[BrotherBart]

More concerned about you getting the air sealing and ventilation issues in that roof fixed than the stove installation.

Welcome to the joint. As you know from lurking there is plenty of good advice available here.

 

[JA600L]

I have that stove as well. It performs well only with dry wood. Be aware that it is not much of a radiant heater.

 

[smokedragon]

1 gl oil = 140,000 BTU => 750 gl = 105,000,000 BTU (not counting hot water etc.)
Assuming 80% efficient furnace: 84 million BTU
1 cord hardwood = ~ 20 million BTU (http://forestry.usu.edu/htm/forest-products/wood-heating)
=> 4.2 cords but that would assume a stove with 100% efficiency. At 66% efficiency you are looking at ~6.3 cords if you wanted to replace your oil use completely.

You beat me to the math

Although the BTU number for cordwood and the efficiency numbers can change this, I say it is a really good starting point.

If you are looking to supplement (evenings/weekends, take a dent out of the oil man) you need 2 - 3.

Full time heating, 4 - 7.

If you want to make sure you have dry wood this winter, start now and try to get species that dry quickly (plenty of threads on that). Of course, these usually have less BTU/cord, but at least you won't clog your new chimney.

With that stove, it looks like you will be supplementing (at least in the coldest of months). But even then, money saved.

 

[C6pilot]

Welcome Joe!

You will need quite a few cords. I would plan on at least 4 if you can find the time to keep the stove humming. Quick estimate:

1 gl oil = 140,000 BTU => 750 gl = 105,000,000 BTU (not counting hot water etc.)
Assuming 80% efficient furnace: 84 million BTU
1 cord hardwood = ~ 20 million BTU (http://forestry.usu.edu/htm/forest-products/wood-heating)
=> 4.2 cords but that would assume a stove with 100% efficiency. At 66% efficiency you are looking at ~6.3 cords if you wanted to replace your oil use completely.

Thus, the 4300 is probably a bit undersized but I assume you knew that already.

Are you using a certified sweep for the install? http://www.csia.org/search

Thanks for the info. I'm not expecting to replace the oil all together, I just want to save a chunk of cash in exchange for a little hard work. I'm not really worried about the 4300 being undersized. I have 4 heat zones to pickup any slack. Since the basement is unheated I need to keep water circulating through the rads on the outside walls so they don't freeze on the really frigid nights anyway. I'm in the oil heat business and have seen too many people freeze pipes using supplemental heat incorrectly. The sweep is certified and has done a lot of work with our company over the years. I trust him implicitly.

The other factor is I was keeping my stats at 64F 5-11pm, 58F 11-6am, heat the bedroom and bath to 64F for an hour and back to 58F until 5pm. Hopefully the stove will allow me to keep the temps higher while I'm home instead of shivering to save a buck. I already got a quote on more attic insulation and will eventually invest in that. The walls have already been foamed. I just bought this 1951 house last year and have lots on my to do list. There are a lot of things I can do myself but adding insulation is one of those things I'd gladly pay for.

 

[Grisu]

I'm in the oil heat business and have seen too many people freeze pipes using supplemental heat incorrectly.

The oil heat guy starts heating with wood. Welcome to the club!

The other factor is I was keeping my stats at 64F 5-11pm, 58F 11-6am, heat the bedroom and bath to 64F for an hour and back to 58F until 5pm. Hopefully the stove will allow me to keep the temps higher while I'm home instead of shivering to save a buck.

Those temps will be a thing of the past, but you may not save quite as much oil as you thought. Still, there is something to be said for not freezing at home.

I already got a quote on more attic insulation and will eventually invest in that. The walls have already been foamed. I just bought this 1951 house last year and have lots on my to do list. There are a lot of things I can do myself but adding insulation is one of those things I'd gladly pay for.

I know what you are talking about. When we bought our place the attic was a total mess. I was slowly chipping away on it and I am almost finally done. Little tip: Before adding the insulation, airseal the attic floor and check wires etc. That's your best chance of doing that.

 

[C6pilot]

The air sealing is going to take me some time but I know it has to be done. There were a LOT of non-insulating light cans installed. My plan is to replace them with new airtight LED hats that can be insulated over. It's just time and money, the willpower is there.

 

[Grisu]

Not necessary the cheapest solution but what worked for me rather quick were those: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tenmat-Recessed-Light-Cover-FF130E/204286308
Some sprayfoam around the edges and the cans were sealed. There are CFLs and LEDs in those fixtures so the heat output is a quarter from before.

 

[C6pilot]

Not necessary the cheapest solution but what worked for me rather quick were those: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Tenmat-Recessed-Light-Cover-FF130E/204286308
Some sprayfoam around the edges and the cans were sealed. There are CFLs and LEDs in those fixtures so the heat output is a quarter from before.

Thanks for the link. They seem pricey but will save the time of making boxes myself. (tell me they don't look like some kind of planter liner that probably sells for $1). I can use them on more than half but the rest don't have access from above so I'll need some fixtures I can replace from the living space. I'm wondering if I can buy LED upgrades for not much more. Costco has had some really good LED deals lately using rebates from my local electric co.

 

[Grisu]

Thanks for the link. They seem pricey but will save the time of making boxes myself. (tell me they don't look like some kind of planter liner that probably sells for $1). I can use them on more than half but the rest don't have access from above so I'll need some fixtures I can replace from the living space. I'm wondering if I can buy LED upgrades for not much more. Costco has had some really good LED deals lately using rebates from my local electric co.

They are certainly convenience items. Somewhat bendable, non-combustible, can be cut to let the wires through. Took me like 10 min per can including removing the insulation and putting it back. Still, after my futile attempts to build boxes over the lights I was very happy to find something that worked quick and easy.