Fireplace blower

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dustybrickman

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Jan 28, 2009
1
Central Texas
I'm trying to prove a point to one of my installers.

I have had customers upset with me in the past for selling them 100 cfm blowers for circulating units as well as direct vent units. Our showroom models did not seem to make a difference to me but these were not in a living space. I called the tech. dept. of the manufacturer and was informed that little difference, if any, would be noticed in large rooms. I haven't stopped selling blowers but if I am asked about them, I don't push them.

What's this groups opinion?
 
dustybrickman said:
I'm trying to prove a point to one of my installers.

I have had customers upset with me in the past for selling them 100 cfm blowers for circulating units as well as direct vent units. Our showroom models did not seem to make a difference to me but these were not in a living space. I called the tech. dept. of the manufacturer and was informed that little difference, if any, would be noticed in large rooms. I haven't stopped selling blowers but if I am asked about them, I don't push them.

What's this groups opinion?

You could try installing ThermGuards in homes with forced air systems. It is a programmable timer that can control just the fan of the home's furnace. It uses the
blower to move the heat around the entire home. You could do some searching of this forum on ThermGuard for some comments by users, or here is a quote from Gooserider:

Gooserider said:
We have found a reasonably satisfactory solution. Our house basically divides into 3rds. On one end is the living room third with the stove, which is totally open to the peak of the cathedral ceiling 24 feet up The other two thirds are two story with nominal 8' ceilings - The second floor is the master suite, and a small loft area open to the living room. On the first floor is the kitchen / dining area that occupies the center third of the house, then two bedrooms and the main bath in the far third.

Underneath everything is a full basement, with an open area under the living room and kitchen thirds. There is a half bath, the furnace room and a storage room under the bedroom third. It is a beautiful house, but not a very practical one.

There are large passageways between the kitchen and living rooms, and the stairs to the 2nd floor and basement are very open. The first floor bedrooms are in a sort of "T" hallway.

The stove used to do a good job heating the living-room, dining area and master suite, but didn't do much for the bedrooms. However I've gotten a "Thermguard" from Bear Mountain Design, which is intended for addressing this sort of application. It is a little box that wires in across the fan terminals of your HVAC thermostat, and cycles the fan on a programmable basis. Since we've gotten the box, I typically see no more than 1-2*F difference between the living rooms and the bedrooms. As long as I stay on top of keeping the stove loaded, I can keep the house in the low 70's.

Currently I have the box on its default programming of running the fan five minutes on and 15 off. Haven't seen any real reason to change it.

(The box also advertises itself as useful in hot water systems for periodically circulating the water to keep if from freezing)

The downside is that I seem to be loosing more heat from the living room than I'm gaining in the bedrooms - It used to be the bedrooms would be in the low - mid 60's, and the living room would be near 80. Now everything is closer to the 69-72 range.

I've been thinking about trying to play games with blocking off different registers and returns to see if I can focus the distribution a bit, but I haven't decided which way I'm better off doing it - blocking the intakes in the living room and the registers in the rest of the house, or vice versa.

Gooserider

Cheers,
Bridgerman
 
"circulating units as well as direct vent units" - So we're talking gas fireplaces, pellet stoves, etc?

I don't know as I can speak for them directly, but with a wood burning fireplace insert, it makes a HUGE difference. Without a blower, you've basically got a radiant room heater. With one, you've got a whole house convection heater. The forum is littered with posts basically saying "Wow, what a difference the blower made". With a wood stove, the reaction seems to be more mixed...some people swear by them, some swear at them. IMHO, I'd still rather have warm air moving to all parts of the house versus radiant heat in line-of-site to the stove and toasty warm walls/ceilings which don't do me much good anyway.

The flip side is - if the blower is only 100cfm, and if the appliance is lower btu - that may not be such a drastic difference. If you've got 10, 15, or 20k btu, that is not a lot of heat to move and 100 cfm isn't moving it much faster. But blow 3-400 cfm over a 75,000 btu wood stove and that turns out to be a substantial amount of heat.
 
dustybrickman said:
I'm trying to prove a point to one of my installers.

I have had customers upset with me in the past for selling them 100 cfm blowers for circulating units as well as direct vent units. Our showroom models did not seem to make a difference to me but these were not in a living space. I called the tech. dept. of the manufacturer and was informed that little difference, if any, would be noticed in large rooms. I haven't stopped selling blowers but if I am asked about them, I don't push them.

What's this groups opinion?

When I have a customer looking to move the heat from a DV unit, or even a woodstove, for that matter,
I ask if the have a ceiling fan in the room...
If they do, I recommend they try the unit without the blower & use the ceiling fan to force their convection...
They can save as much as $300 by not getting the blower & for the most part, it can be added later if they need it...
For pellet stoves and MOST inserts, I'd say a blower is pretty much required...
MY $.02...
 
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