First wood stove, 2004 Jotul F500. Lots of questions. Should I replace gaskets? Who are reputable vendors?

[Pyrenees]

This is my first post here. I moved to a house with a large brick fireplace and set out to find a wood stove. I got immensely lucky and found a 2004 Jotul F500 from the original owner, barely used, with paperwork, for $250. Needless to say, I hitched up the utility trailer and got my butt over there as fast as I could. The plan is to install it in my existing fireplace, which is all-brick with a hearth, and a 13x13 terracotta flue liner going up the brick chimney (1970's house).

It needs new front door glass/gasket since it broke when they moved. I have so many questions, so I guess I'll start. I can do my own research, and I've done a lot of it in the past few days. I've ordered the Woodburner's Encyclopedia, I've been reading the Jotul installation manual and going through NFPA211-2019 to better understand what I need to do for a reasonably-proper DIY install. With all of that out of the way...

-This is a 2004 model and the doors seem to shut properly. Should I swap out the gaskets anyway due to the age? As far as I can tell, this stove did not get heavy usage.

-I need to buy replacement glass. What are some reputable places to get this? I don't want to Amazon/ebay something like that. Are you supposed to use gasket cement on the glass gasket like you do with the others?

-On that note, what are some reputable online places to get other stuff? I'll need a bunch of random things to install this and I'd rather support a really good independent business than buy from some rando on Amazon. There are some fireplace stores nearby but I think they really only sell stuff they install, and not parts.

-The cement joints in between the fire bricks in the back of the fire box of my fireplace have some previous water damage and are crumbling. I installed a chimney cap when I bought the place, but some damage was already done. What's a good heat-resistant product I can use to repoint those joints? Same question about paint for the firebox. Once I clean it up I want to use a heat-tolerant paint to aesthetically make it better.

-I've noticed some folks use an inline damper/regulator thing on the exhaust side after it leaves the stove, and some don't. What's the purpose of that? Why would I need one?

-My chimney inspection showed some gaps in between the terracotta flues, and while they said it wasn't too big of a problem, they recommended a liner. For this reason, I think it would be prudent to run the stove pipe all the way up to the top and attach it there, for safety's sake - i.e. reducing any creosote buildup. Any experience doing it this way, that people can share? Any good DIYs?

-On that note, I was thinking that double-walled pipe would be best at reducing turbulent flow versus single-walled. Is there a safety advantage to double-walled? If double-walled isn't flexible, do they make some kind of oval or rectangle sections that I can squeeze through the built-in damper in the existing fireplace?

-The stove will sit on my hearth, but I know that code requires non-combustible stuff to be a certain distance in front of the stove and to the sides. What are you all using for that? Giant slate rock? Some kind of fire-resistant floor mat? I have a laminate wood floor underneath, which I assume would qualify as combustible.

Anyway, thanks for hearing me out!!

 

[begreen]

Nice find. It looks great. Try a local Jotul dealer first for the glass. It gets a glass gasket that I think is flat and has double-stick taped side for easy installation. They make a full kit for Jotul stoves if you want to have all the gaskets on hand, part 157050. The door gaskets should be tested doing the dollar bill test. If they are still in good shape then they can wait for replacement. The ashpan is also gasketed.

People trying to start poorly seasoned wood sometimes open the ash pan door to get the fire going. Don't do this. It can crack the base and end up being an expensive repair. Remove the grate, wipe down the grate well in the base and inspect closely for any cracks radiating from the corners of the well.

If you can't get glass locally it can be ordered online:

Jotul F500 Replacement Glass 129069

Jotul 129069 F500 Oslo Wood Stove - Replacement Glass

www.rockymountainstove.com

 

[EbS-P]

Nice score. I’m super jealous. Plan on an installing an insulated flex liner. You must have a clean clay flue and smoke shelf before you install the liner. Wrapping yourself is not hard. They sell pre insulated

You can get short legs if you need them. The outlet can be unbolted and rotated to top vent. Your choice here. I think they spill less smoke top vented. My Jotul is top vent as fare back in the fireplace as I can get it. Reason was so that the old hearth provided the 16” from door of non combustibles. I have a small blower on the fireplace floor point up the back of the stove really helps move heat out of the fireplace.

Connect an appliance adapter to the end of the flex liner and secure to the stove outlet. You will need to cut out or remove the fireplace damper. I took the whole frame and damper out. Install an insulated blockoff plate.

How tall is the chimney? Less than 18’ I don’t think you would need a damper.

 

[Pyrenees]

Thanks for the detailed replies, everything helps. I have some answers and some questions.

A's: The chimney inspection says the flue height is 20 feet, which seems accurate to me. I am going to get on the roof and drop a tape measure down it to see what's up. What's the point of the inline exhaust damper? I assume this stove will pull pretty hard, is it to reduce that?

A: I don't think I need short legs, in fact if I lowered it more the ash pan would scrape.

A: I am planning to switch the exhaust from side vent to top vent.

Q: There is some creosote built up on an edge on the exhaust flange. I haven't removed this stuff before. Wire brush? Or is there a cleaning spray/method?

Q: What is the dollar bill test?

Q: what's an insulated flex liner? Is that something that goes over the exhaust tube that I'm going to run up to the top? Or are you talking about it being double walled? I do wonder how the heck I am going to get it through the damper. I don't even know what type of blockoff plate to use.

Luckily, I am not in a hurry. I just want to learn what I ought to do, and take it from there. I am going to vacuum it out and inspect for cracks tonight if I can.

 

[bholler]

Thanks for the detailed replies, everything helps. I have some answers and some questions.

A's: The chimney inspection says the flue height is 20 feet, which seems accurate to me. I am going to get on the roof and drop a tape measure down it to see what's up. What's the point of the inline exhaust damper? I assume this stove will pull pretty hard, is it to reduce that?

A: I don't think I need short legs, in fact if I lowered it more the ash pan would scrape.

A: I am planning to switch the exhaust from side vent to top vent.

Q: There is some creosote built up on an edge on the exhaust flange. I haven't removed this stuff before. Wire brush? Or is there a cleaning spray/method?

Q: What is the dollar bill test?

Q: what's an insulated flex liner? Is that something that goes over the exhaust tube that I'm going to run up to the top? Or are you talking about it being double walled? I do wonder how the heck I am going to get it through the damper. I don't even know what type of blockoff plate to use.

Luckily, I am not in a hurry. I just want to learn what I ought to do, and take it from there. I am going to vacuum it out and inspect for cracks tonight if I can.

At 20' you may need a damper.

How are you planning on top venting into a fireplace? Are you planning on putting the stove in the fireplace?

A wire wheel will work but just scraping it usually does as well

The dollar bill test is closing the door on a bill. It should pull out but with quite a bit of resistance.

An insulated flex liner is the exhaust pipe you will run through the chimney. It is stainless and insulated with ceramic wool. You can't just run stove pipe through a chimney.

Your block off plate will be fabricated to fit the space. And the damper and brick will be cut out of the way to make room for the liner

 

[EbS-P]

The damper will need to be remover or cut out to fit the liner through. My installer just removed the entire damper assembly. I did the same in my diy install. It just gave me more room to move the stoves as far back as possible so i did not near any hearth extensions. I even knocked lose the top fire bricks right in the center and and reset then with to give me an extra 1/2”. Yep that’s the difference between a hearth extension or not.

This is the liner I used for my last install.
https://www.drolet.ca/us/en/venting/flex-liner/kits-for-insert/volki-625 And I added this insulation kit.

Rockford Chimney Supply Chimney Liner Insulation Blanket Kit, 3 to 6 Inch Diameter x 25 Feet https://a.co/d/iox4RTt


They sell pre insulated liners. That look like this.

6" - Forever Flex Preinsulated Flexible Chimney Liner Only

Forever Flex Preinsulated Flexible Chimney Liner (Liner Only) - 6"

www.fireplace-chimneystore.com

Chimney liner is only the only product allowed to run up the chimney.

 

[Pyrenees]

Ok so basically, you can buy chimney liner without insulation and then get a wraparound insulation kit - or you can get the pre-insulated liner and each option is about the same price in the end, $600-800. At least that seems to be the takeaway? Easy enough. Can I scrunch that through a typical wood fireplace chimney damper? I guess I ought to open that sucker up and see if it would even fit. I have no idea if my current firebox damper is even removable without dynamite.

I got on the roof and measured, seems the terracotta is 13x17-ish and most of these kits have 13x13 bits. Hm.

 

[bholler]

Ok so basically, you can buy chimney liner without insulation and then get a wraparound insulation kit - or you can get the pre-insulated liner and each option is about the same price in the end, $600-800. At least that seems to be the takeaway? Easy enough. Can I scrunch that through a typical wood fireplace chimney damper? I guess I ought to open that sucker up and see if it would even fit. I have no idea if my current firebox damper is even removable without dynamite.

I got on the roof and measured, seems the terracotta is 13x17-ish and most of these kits have 13x13 bits. Hm.

You will probably need to cut out the damper frame possibly some brick. You will need to order a larger top plate or fabricate one

 

[begreen]

I would try the stove without a damper. The F500 likes a decent draft. In the past, folks with shorter than 16' flues complained about poor performance with this stove that improved with adding chimney.
Will there be enough room for the left side loading door to open with the stove venting vertically?

 

[Pyrenees]

I agree that I may have to cut the damper out. It seems too narrow but maybe I'll be surprised. Wish I could just stick it through there, but I have an angle grinder if I need it - meh.

Also, I am pretty sure I will be top venting it. The fireplace is big enough to work with the stove with some clearance, but I don't think that the side loader door is going to come all the way open. I actually just ordered a full gasket kit and gasket cement for this thing. That way, I can make sure everything is good to go, before I put it in its final resting place.

Does anyone have recommendations for the type of mortar to use when repointing fire brick inside the fire box, or a type of paint to use for finishing the fire box? I want to work on that before I stick the stove in there.