Fisher Wood Insert Liner Upgrade

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

smiles16

Member
Sep 17, 2018
3
Clark County, Indiana
I’ve been lurking on this site for a couple years.

I bought the house I grew up in a few years ago and it came equipped with a Fisher Insert (chain model), slammer install.

My parents only used it in power outages and through tough financial periods. They always ran it with either the screen or with the knobs fully out. Damper was always wide open.

It sat unused for several years, then I decided to fire it up after a chimney inspection. They obviously frowned upon the slammer install, but I’m grandfathered in on code. It vents to a 13x13 clay liner.

Problem is, there is glazed creosote in the smoke chamber. Last year, I only burned it in the daytime and closely attended. The wall is all masonry with no nearby framing until 10’, so I haven’t been too concerned.

However, I’ve been thinking more and more about upgrading. A modern stove is obviously the best choice, but the wife and I both enjoy the occasional open burn (bourbon, slow music, wink wink). As far as I know, no modern insert lends that option. I also grew up with this stove, so there is a slight sentimental factor. Plus, my house is only a little over 1,000 sqft.

So, I’ve been looking into just adding a liner. Allows me to skip the expensive chemical cleaning for the glazed creosote, gives me peace of mind, and slightly more efficiency. My concern, though, is the necessary diameter. I’ve read the debate of 6” vs 8”, but I have not read anything regarding open burning with the 6”. It seems that conversation was in direct regards to closed door, heatig burns.

Can I open burn with a 6” connection?

Also, the added boot that allows the damper rod to stay in place must be notched. Does the (although minor) breech in seal have any risks or ill affects?

Any info and/or advice is greatly appreciated.

I see a member that goes by @coaly is quite knowledgeable on these fisher inserts as well.

I just want to be able to enjoy my stove without darting around with an infrared thermometer and sleep well with a slow fire burning.
 
I’ve been lurking on this site for a couple years.

I bought the house I grew up in a few years ago and it came equipped with a Fisher Insert (chain model), slammer install.

My parents only used it in power outages and through tough financial periods. They always ran it with either the screen or with the knobs fully out. Damper was always wide open.

It sat unused for several years, then I decided to fire it up after a chimney inspection. They obviously frowned upon the slammer install, but I’m grandfathered in on code. It vents to a 13x13 clay liner.

Problem is, there is glazed creosote in the smoke chamber. Last year, I only burned it in the daytime and closely attended. The wall is all masonry with no nearby framing until 10’, so I haven’t been too concerned.

However, I’ve been thinking more and more about upgrading. A modern stove is obviously the best choice, but the wife and I both enjoy the occasional open burn (bourbon, slow music, wink wink). As far as I know, no modern insert lends that option. I also grew up with this stove, so there is a slight sentimental factor. Plus, my house is only a little over 1,000 sqft.

So, I’ve been looking into just adding a liner. Allows me to skip the expensive chemical cleaning for the glazed creosote, gives me peace of mind, and slightly more efficiency. My concern, though, is the necessary diameter. I’ve read the debate of 6” vs 8”, but I have not read anything regarding open burning with the 6”. It seems that conversation was in direct regards to closed door, heatig burns.

Can I open burn with a 6” connection?

Also, the added boot that allows the damper rod to stay in place must be notched. Does the (although minor) breech in seal have any risks or ill affects?

Any info and/or advice is greatly appreciated.

I see a member that goes by @coaly is quite knowledgeable on these fisher inserts as well.

I just want to be able to enjoy my stove without darting around with an infrared thermometer and sleep well with a slow fire burning.
Well for starters the house changed hands so it is not grandfathered in. And regardless it is now against code because we found that slammers are very dangerous. And no you cant use 6" even if you only burnt with the doors closed you can only downsize 1" so it would be 7". And with open door burning you need 8".

A liner will not get rid of the need to clean that glaze. It all has to come out before you install the liner. Otherwise you can end up with a fire invetween the liners which is very bad.
 
I hear you on the liner, but how could the creosote ignite or sustain a fire if it doesn’t have air supply? I’d be sealing the top cap and insert shrowd.
There is no way to make the shrowd air tight. Even with a blockoff plate enough air can get in to sustain a fire. And the top plate usually has some gaps as well. Which in the case of a fire between the liner can have flames shooting out of them.

Proper cleaning before a liner installation is required by all manufacturers for good reason. Even if the liner is insulated which it should be.
 
Okay, I’ll get it cleaned.

My main question is regarding the boot adapter installation with the damper rod going across the top of the box.
You really dont need a boot just an adapter that will fit in the collar. You notch it to go around the rod. No sealer needed. Yes you will have a little air leaking in there but on an old fisher it isnt a big deal.