Hello. Im trying to identify which fisher stove I have. Its got double cathedral doors with 4 firebricks in the back.
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Fisher wood stove
- Thread starter wcstreaker
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Well it is an insert meant to go in a fireplace not a freestanding stove to start with. I am sure a mod will move this to the fisher forum soon where the guys who are into those old things are.
Hello. Yes I knew it to be an insert. Its on a roller cart at the moment but will be used for its intended purpose very soon. Ive got the shrouds to go with it and yes I have a blower that fits directly under it as well. But im just curious what model it is. I have tried to figure it out but was unable to so far.
Last edited by a moderator:
I beleive it is just a fisher fireplace insert. Do you have a liner to hook it up if not you need one.
Im installing a 7" liner directly into the inlet as its a 7.5 " inlet. As per a pros directions. I understand its just a fisher insert but im curious to know if its a grandma bear or grandpa bear or anything like that. Also, ive gotten mixed opinions on whether or not to add a damper to the flue liner. Some say, no matter what, that it needs to have one. Others say that because I have dials on the doors that they can act as the damper by opening or closing them. Any suggestions on what has worked well for others?
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Here's the manual; https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/fishinsertmanual.pdf
Yes, you need a damper.
The reason some don't use one is having a larger existing flue that requires more heat may not allow them to close one partially. If your flue is insulated you should be able to close it partially. The damper controls overdraft of the chimney, so the stove make and model doesn't matter. It is a variable resistance to slow velocity for the chimney.
This model was also made for fire viewing with spark screen in place. During open door burning, close damper slowly until smoke forms and starts to roll in at top. Open slightly to prevent smoke roll in. This becomes your only control with open doors.
I've found when starting, the kindling may roar up the stack wasting more heat than necessary (in your case), so closing partially until the roar stops allows more heat in the firebox to heat larger pieces quicker.
Yes, you need a damper.
The reason some don't use one is having a larger existing flue that requires more heat may not allow them to close one partially. If your flue is insulated you should be able to close it partially. The damper controls overdraft of the chimney, so the stove make and model doesn't matter. It is a variable resistance to slow velocity for the chimney.
This model was also made for fire viewing with spark screen in place. During open door burning, close damper slowly until smoke forms and starts to roll in at top. Open slightly to prevent smoke roll in. This becomes your only control with open doors.
I've found when starting, the kindling may roar up the stack wasting more heat than necessary (in your case), so closing partially until the roar stops allows more heat in the firebox to heat larger pieces quicker.
Similar threads
