Hi,
I originally joined the forum to get help fixing my stove because I could not clean the upper EPA baffle. I have since broken the glass on the stove doing something stupid, so, I am thinking about replacing the stove if the glass can not quickly and easily be fixed.
Though the main problem has been the last 1.5 years is the upper baffle is clogged, it appears to be welded in, and I have not been able to clean it with flue cleaning powder, rods, blower, or a vacuum cleaner from the flue side. Blowing air from the chimney side to the baffle/firebox solved nothing. The air no longer goes into the baffle holes and just rolls out the front if the flue is closed, which can kill the fire. Which has meant keeping the door ajar or the flue open.
Now the flue control handle has lost it's "spring" and falls down open.
It needs new firebricks, I replaced a few last season, but, it needs a whole new set.
I broke the glass doing something stupid, so, it needs a new glass, I do not know where to buy it except places on line list a 4+ week wait. I guess there is a difference in glass too.
The baffle being clogged is the biggest issue, besides that I have been happy with the Drolet NG1800 Myraid.
![[Hearth.com] fix a Drolet NG1800 Myraid or replace it with something equal or better ?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/340/340292-93d95055873a5ba9c6e9397235a68fde.jpg?hash=PT7W8rPDFn "[Hearth.com] fix a Drolet NG1800 Myraid or replace it with something equal or better ?")
If it matters I burn a lot of pine and sell the hardwood 🙃
![[Hearth.com] fix a Drolet NG1800 Myraid or replace it with something equal or better ?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/340/340293-00ff646f9d8e66484b9a06b089a82bcf.jpg?hash=uUL7EhHktX "[Hearth.com] fix a Drolet NG1800 Myraid or replace it with something equal or better ?")
I had planned on using a straight up flue this time with triple wall duravent, but, that is another topic.
So, I am going to put in a new chimney, different post, and I was thinking about just replacing the stove, I have had it 12+ years. I was considering another Drolet, but, all the ones being offered now seem to have the hinge on the right instead of the left.
For a replacement I need:
1 - flat top for cooking or heating water
2 - glass door for light and keeping tabs on the fire.
3 - hinge on the left side of the stove
4 - non-cat stove unless the converter unit can easily be removed when it clogs. I do not mind replacing it if need be, I mind the stove being down for parts in the middle of winder.
5 - deep stove for north to south loading, I hate logs rolling out.
6 - $1500-$2000
heats 1500-2000 sq feet.
Specs on my current stove:
Drolet NG1800 Myraid
Bought 2012-12-19 from Northern Tools
Heating Capacity* :
epa 30 800 BTU/h
Seasoned cordwood 85 000 BTU/h
500 to 2100 ft2
Over all dimensions
L 23 ¾ x D 26 ½ x H 31 ½ "
Combustion Chamber :
18 ¼ x 20 ¼ ’’
Volume :3.228 pi3 (3.22 cubic feet?)
Pyroceram Glass Door :
Weight
381 lbs
Some stoves which peaked my interest. I only know about this website from reading other posts on this forum. I only want stoves made in Canada or the USA. It goes more to accountability for workmanship quality, plus, being able to buy replacement parts.
www.myfireplaceproducts.com
EnglanderSKU: ESW0008
BLUE RIDGE 300L
www.myfireplaceproducts.com
Century HeatingSKU: CB00024
FW3500
www.myfireplaceproducts.com
EnglanderSKU: ESW0012
BLUE RIDGE 500
Any other worthy stoves or am I better off fixing this one up somehow?
I see all the new EPA stoves people complain about on Northern Tool and such, the customers end up ripping out the "fiberglass" mats and venting directly up the flue. Then complain about it being a fire hazard. I just rather buy a quality stove, for a lower cost then a $10,000 stove, then having to rip out EPA gimmicks from a $1100 box store.
Any advice welcome, hope the post was not too long to read. I tried to get all the important info in.
I originally joined the forum to get help fixing my stove because I could not clean the upper EPA baffle. I have since broken the glass on the stove doing something stupid, so, I am thinking about replacing the stove if the glass can not quickly and easily be fixed.
Though the main problem has been the last 1.5 years is the upper baffle is clogged, it appears to be welded in, and I have not been able to clean it with flue cleaning powder, rods, blower, or a vacuum cleaner from the flue side. Blowing air from the chimney side to the baffle/firebox solved nothing. The air no longer goes into the baffle holes and just rolls out the front if the flue is closed, which can kill the fire. Which has meant keeping the door ajar or the flue open.
Now the flue control handle has lost it's "spring" and falls down open.
It needs new firebricks, I replaced a few last season, but, it needs a whole new set.
I broke the glass doing something stupid, so, it needs a new glass, I do not know where to buy it except places on line list a 4+ week wait. I guess there is a difference in glass too.
The baffle being clogged is the biggest issue, besides that I have been happy with the Drolet NG1800 Myraid.
If it matters I burn a lot of pine and sell the hardwood 🙃
I had planned on using a straight up flue this time with triple wall duravent, but, that is another topic.
So, I am going to put in a new chimney, different post, and I was thinking about just replacing the stove, I have had it 12+ years. I was considering another Drolet, but, all the ones being offered now seem to have the hinge on the right instead of the left.
For a replacement I need:
1 - flat top for cooking or heating water
2 - glass door for light and keeping tabs on the fire.
3 - hinge on the left side of the stove
4 - non-cat stove unless the converter unit can easily be removed when it clogs. I do not mind replacing it if need be, I mind the stove being down for parts in the middle of winder.
5 - deep stove for north to south loading, I hate logs rolling out.
6 - $1500-$2000
heats 1500-2000 sq feet.
Specs on my current stove:
Drolet NG1800 Myraid
Bought 2012-12-19 from Northern Tools
Heating Capacity* :
epa 30 800 BTU/h
Seasoned cordwood 85 000 BTU/h
500 to 2100 ft2
Over all dimensions
L 23 ¾ x D 26 ½ x H 31 ½ "
Combustion Chamber :
18 ¼ x 20 ¼ ’’
Volume :3.228 pi3 (3.22 cubic feet?)
Pyroceram Glass Door :
Weight
381 lbs
Some stoves which peaked my interest. I only know about this website from reading other posts on this forum. I only want stoves made in Canada or the USA. It goes more to accountability for workmanship quality, plus, being able to buy replacement parts.
ESW0008 | Wood Stoves
Ideal for spaces up to 2,100 ft², this large non-catalytic wood stove produces up to 75,000 BTU/h and emits only 2.3 g/h of fine particles. The unit is equipped with a top heat exchanger that redirects heat to the front of the unit. **Included**: legs, ash drawer & lip, air intake damper &...
www.myfireplaceproducts.com
EnglanderSKU: ESW0008
BLUE RIDGE 300L
CB00024 | Wood Stoves
- Extra-large firebox, ideal for large spaces and harsh climates - Reinforced appliance top with a C-Cast heat shield - Cast iron door and ceramic glass - Glass airwash system for a cleaner view of the flames - EPA certified at 1.6 g/h - Non-catalytic combustion system - Designed and made in...
www.myfireplaceproducts.com
Century HeatingSKU: CB00024
FW3500
ESW0012 | Wood Stoves
Ideal for heating spaces up to 2,700 ft², the Blue Ridge 500 is a wood stove with an impressive output of 110,000 BTU/h. EPA certified at 1.6 g/h, this non-catalytic appliance represents an eco-responsible heating source. Its very large combustion chamber allows logs to be loaded across the...
www.myfireplaceproducts.com
BLUE RIDGE 500
Any other worthy stoves or am I better off fixing this one up somehow?
I see all the new EPA stoves people complain about on Northern Tool and such, the customers end up ripping out the "fiberglass" mats and venting directly up the flue. Then complain about it being a fire hazard. I just rather buy a quality stove, for a lower cost then a $10,000 stove, then having to rip out EPA gimmicks from a $1100 box store.
Any advice welcome, hope the post was not too long to read. I tried to get all the important info in.
