flue material

[arro222]

Beyond the longevity advantages of a tile flue (and only in some cases), with both types being cylindrical, anyone know if draft would be effected by a ceramic flue liner vs. steel liner?

 

[begreen]

I would think that an insulated stainless steel flue would have the advantage because the flue gases will remain hotter, thus improving draft. Also, the hotter flue gases will be less likely to condense on the liner walls as creosote. Major creosote accumulation will reduce draft.

 

[arro222]

I would think that an insulated stainless steel flue would have the advantage because the flue gases will remain hotter, thus improving draft. Also, the hotter flue gases will be less likely to condense on the liner walls as creosote. Major creosote accumulation will reduce draft.

..and if the ceramic flue tile were also insulated with vermiculite? The reason I ask is because there is one manufacturer of stoves that is making the claim that a metal pipe would be better. The reasoning here is that the ceramic flue retains heat, gets too warm, and speeds up the draft as the fire reaches peak thus burning fuel up faster. As I am rebuilding my entire chimney, it would be good to get some more info on the subject.

 

[begreen]

If you are rebuilding, then why compare to liner material? I would be using class A pipe not a liner for a number of reasons besides just draft.

 

[webby3650]

SS is a much better option! One reason Is because its so smooth, nearly no resistance. And creasote doesn't reall stick to it, even the worst ss flues I've cleaned we're no big deal, the creosote just falls out! This isn't the case with a masonry flue, it takes some pretty brutal tactics to get clay flues clean when they are glazed up. I have never heard that the masonry gets too hot and improves draft! That's crazy, it's a massive heat sink for sure, but it aint gonna cause excessive draft. It only takes one flue fire to wreck a clay flue, you will never see that SS liner fail on your lifetime! Do your self a big favor and go with a rigid SS insulated liner!

 

[arro222]

If you are rebuilding, then why compare to liner material? I would be using class A pipe not a liner for a number of reasons besides just draft.

My house is a log home with an exposed masonry chimney. I wouldn't be caught dead running a class A pipe up its side as it would be hideous.

 

[Michael Golden]

My house is a log home with an exposed masonry chimney. I wouldn't be caught dead running a class A pipe up its side as it would be hideous.

Well then run a liner and you don't have to worry about that class A exposed looked! Plus I don't see a tile flue outlasting a stainless flue.....am I wrong?

 

[webby3650]

Plus I don't see a tile flue outlasting a stainless flue.....am I wrong?

No way! If they are able to dodge a flue fire, moisture gets em. Moisture causes the Clay to spawl, it also degrades the joints between the clay tiles. SS is the only way to go.

 

[begreen]

My house is a log home with an exposed masonry chimney. I wouldn't be caught dead running a class A pipe up its side as it would be hideous.

I hear you. Actually, if at all possible it would be better to go straight up through the roof. It will cost less, work better and look better. If it has to be exterior then you could surround the class A with a chase with a stone or brick veneer on the outside. This is a fairly common treatment.

Can you start from the beginning and explain what you are doing? What will be connected to the chimney? Are you trying to reuse the existing chimney or start from scratch?

 

[arro222]

I hear you. Actually, if at all possible it would be better to go straight up through the roof. It will cost less, work better and look better. If it has to be exterior then you could surround the class A with a chase with a stone or brick veneer on the outside. This is a fairly common treatment.

Can you start from the beginning and explain what you are doing? What will be connected to the chimney? Are you trying to reuse the existing chimney or start from scratch?

Begreen, My chimney has pulled from the house (footing problem). I am having the whole thing knocked down and rebuilt so I have my choice of flue liner. At first, I was going to use an 8" cylindrical flue tile thinking to accommodate a Blaze King to replace my cracked Quadrafire but Blaze king states if I have more than two turns in flue direction, their stove would not have acceptable draft. I have three and their all 90* So now I'm looking at just getting the replacement 5700 Quadrafire is giving me which I'm not thrilled about as they have made the burn box smaller and I hear the stove does not throw out the heat it used to. The chimney is just as critical as the stove so I wanted to do it right as I also liked the Drolet Tundra furnace as no matter what i get needs to be put in the unfinished basement. Everything else is calling for a 6" flue.

 

[webby3650]

Why the 90's? I see a 90 at the wall, a Tee, but after that no 90's are really possible. What's up?

Have you looked into my suggestion of a 8" SS rigid liner at all?

 

[begreen]

Can you post a picture of the current setup in the basement? That will help us see the connector setup and we may be able to suggest an alternative.

 

[arro222]

Why the 90's? I see a 90 at the wall, a Tee, but after that no 90's are really possible. What's up?

Have you looked into my suggestion of a 8" SS rigid liner at all?

I added the picture above. My stove cannot be placed directly below the thimble as the oil furnace is in the way hence the offset and the extra elbow.

As far as the liner, i will heed your advice and get a rigid one. Will wrap it with insulation and for added measue, will throw loose vermiculite around the void.

 

[webby3650]

Will wrap it with insulation and for added measue, will throw loose vermiculite around the void.

You could just use a poured in insulation and skip the wrap. Just make sure it's blocked off really well at the bottom, or it will just run out.