Flue pipe
- Thread starter Enplater
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
What kind of pipe is going through the wall to the tee? It doesn't look like class A chimney pipe. The vertical run up the side of the house does not look adequately braced and supported. With a tall stick like that the draft should be good unless the basement is a negative pressure zone.
The horizontal pipe is galvanized 6". The top of the chimney pipe is lag bolted into the roof rafters and is solid but I would like to have another support about half way up. My main question was about the 2 45 degree elbows I have coming off the stove. The first one starts about 21" above the stove. Does this seem like a better idea then having the 1 90 degree elbow?
Class A chimney pipe must be used when passing through a wall. That is code. The galvanized pipe will rot in no time and will cool down the flue gases right where you don't want them to cool down. It will also be hard to flash correctly which can cause moisture problems and dripping inside. You want insulated, stainless chimney pipe there, with the proper flashing.
There should be wall brackets supporting the vertical pipe every 8 feet.
There should be wall brackets supporting the vertical pipe every 8 feet.
Last edited:
Because it needs to be chimney pipe as soon as it passes through any wall or floor. That and that uninsulated section is going to cool really quickly outside and seriously hurt your draft and cause creosote buildup there as well. In addition it needs to be 18" from any combustibles. So you dont meet requirements there either
Yeah 18" is right, mine is 18.5" from the siding I was just remembering wrong, had to go double check. The galvi pipe has been good so far. I maybe put a cord through it last season and there was a little rust on it but I painted over it a few days ago, I think I can get another season out of it. Where does it say I need Class A pipe to go through a concrete wall? I don't remember reading that when I was installing it.
No problem. If you are trying to improve draft, eliminating the cool down by the horiz run of galvanized will help.
I thought that galv couldnt be used because it gives off toxic gas at high temperature?
Plus it looks like you modified the connection to fit in the class A. You cant modify any components per code and law. They either connect out of the box or they dont.
Plus it looks like you modified the connection to fit in the class A. You cant modify any components per code and law. They either connect out of the box or they dont.
The galvi pipe is replaced by stainless single wall now, it connects to the T by the double wall to single wall adaptor. I believe I've read the fire code says chimney pipe is needed to go through a wall so I should have that going through the wall but I don't. I'll keep it this way until I can afford an install one main floor of my house.
Good enough unless the co alarm goes off. You need to take the risks involved with this much more seriously.
Good God man, you're a Marine?! Thank you for your service, you guys are awesome but this isn't one of those "adapt, improvise and overcome" scenarios from the movies. You are venting an appliance that allows you to have a fire inside your home. You don't mickey mouse these things. At least you shouldn't. "Good so far" isn't going to cut it with the insurance company when push comes to shove.
We would assume that you went to 45 degree elbows to help your draft. No real reason otherwise. If you had a draft problem it's likely related to your adaptation. These guys are trying to nicely tell you what is wrong and how to fix it. You spent all that money and did a fairly nice job. Now you need to spend a few extra bucks and buy another piece of chimney from Lowes, put it in the right way through the wall and finish it. The extra wall braces would be nice and using the correct bracket at the bottom instead of rigging your own would also have been more correct but the piece through the wall is required. If you don't believe us call your insurance company and have them send an inspector to approve it for your policy.
FYI, the 18" clearance that bholler refers to is for single wall pipe. Your class-A chimney requires 2" clearance to combustibles. Technically you could have put the chimney 2" from the siding but then you would have had to elbow around the gutter.
I switched from one piece 90s this year to the flexible/adjustable 45s and I get smoke leaks all the time. switching back as soon as weather warms back up
If smoke is leaking out of the pipe you have other problems that pipe should be under vacume so any leaks should be pulling air in not leaking out
Similar threads
