FPX 44 Thoughts & Question

[Snakebit12]

Well into our second winter with the FPX 44. My observations:

• We do MUCH better loading the box N/S. I can get load more wood, reach higher temps and no logs roll off against the glass. The higher temps also mean less scrubbing of the glass. Unfortunately, I had cut 16" splits; 15" would load better.

• Dry wood makes a huge difference as we are seeing 8+ hour burns now with 2 year-aged splits. With the N/S "view", there still is visible moisture on the cut ends which surprises me.

• This unit generates serious heat...which sometimes almost runs us out of the room. We control with a ceiling fan and opening/closing bedroom doors upstairs.

• The flame still tends to "wander", burning randomly on one side then the other. Seems to depend on how it lights.

Now...a potential problem. The air slide has become " sticky". To the point where I am concerned that, one day, it may not move. Especially tough going left to right.

I shudder to think about what will be required to address this given all of the masonry work that surrounds the fireplace. I cannot imagine how this can be addressed from the outside. Might be a warranty issue but I doubt that they will cover any potential masonry tear-down and re-install.

Thoughts?

 

[mol1jb]

Is there no other way to access the air control?

 

[Isaiah53]

Good to hear from you again Snakebit. I guess I am going to have to start cutting my wood a lot shorter and try the N/S loading. Sounds like it is worth it. Does it turn down any lower without blackening the door glass?

The front faceplate is removable. I have never done it, but I imagine the air controls can be accessed by removing it, unless you have somehow covered it up. They left mine off until all the surrounding stone work was completed. From the install manual it looks like there are gaskets behind it so it is probably not something I would take on myself, but I would think a competent dealer/installer could do it.

 

[Snakebit12]

The N/S approach has made a big difference. I have cut next year's wood to 15" so that will help...you have to be careful about the locking plate. If the split is too long, the door will not close. I load the middle ones first (with the shortest splits) to make sure that the door closes and fill in the rest.

On the air control, I have an email into the dealer. Removing the front panel is acceptable; removing the unit is not.

The slide may well be in the front but I don't know where the actual sliding plate is located. There could be linkage everywhere. I really hope that the dealer has some answers,

 

[Snakebit12]

Does it turn down any lower without blackening the door glass?

Isaiah,

On your question...

I have one of those Inferno magnetic thermometers, probably made for the top of a free-standing stove, I have it stuck on the top left of my RH door. Understanding that the reading is probably not accurate, it is "consistently inaccurate", which has some value.

Loading E/W, I rarely reached 400 (the bottom of the "burn" range) on the thermometer. Now, I have been consistently hitting 550 (upper middle of the "burn" range. I don't know that it is actually 550...but I do believe that it is 150 higher than before (hence consistently inaccurate).

The 1st time scared the &*@! out of me. It is burning so hot that any creosote tends to burn off. Even when I minimize the air - as low as it can go -, I have larger flames until all of the splits are red...and then they just sit there with a low flame and emit heat for hours (which is fantastic). Burns (as defined by blower time) have been around 8 hours. That combined with cleaner glass has convinced me.

When that temp reached 550, I was seriously thinking about how to douse the flame...the air control was already as far right at it would go...and would not choke it out. It peaked at 550 and very slowly dropped after that. A scary few minutes.

I also have been waiting until the Inferno reaches 325-350 before I gradually start cutting back on the air. Used to cut it back at 250 or so.

I just seem to be able to load alot more wood in the stove N/S than E/W.

 

[FPX Dude]

I have the 36 and can't really go N/S with my splits, so I usually go NNE/SSW to get them really packed in, but yes better than E/W. As for the sticky air control, I do notice that too when it's been burning "hot" for a few hours but I just giggle it to loosen a little bit and slide to the desired setting. Also, take a closer look at the control, even though you're moving the knob left and right, the air plate is actually moving diagonally.

 

[FoxTrotBoogie]

I have a 36 also and just started cutting my splits to 12" so I can load north south. I have a tough time getting my inferno up to 400 on an east west load also. I also started raking my coals to the right side which keeps the blower running longer, and helps my wood burn longer as its burning side to side.

 

[Snakebit12]

I also started raking my coals to the right side which keeps the blower running longer, and helps my wood burn longer as its burning side to side.

Chuckled when I read this as we too recently started heaping coals against the 1st brick on the right (which covers the t-stat). Refuel when the blower air simply is no longer warm.

Going N/S, I am consistently getting 10-11 6" splits in at a time. With 16" long splits, I was wasting too much empty space going E/W. Need to cut some 8-10" lengths cut to jam into the corners.

 

[FoxTrotBoogie]

Heaping the coals to the right side definitely helps. Keeps the blower motor from doing its on off cycle, and it keeps the warm air flowing for an extra hour or so.

My next move is to get a digital temp sensor for the cat. Thinking about giving Travis a call as it looks like the newly shipping fpx fireplaces are coming with the condar one.

 

[Snakebit12]

As for the sticky air control, I do notice that too when it's been burning "hot" for a few hours but I just giggle it to loosen a little bit and slide to the desired setting.

Upon further review, I am also seeing more "stickiness" when the unit is hot. Apparently expansion is playing a role in this somehow.

Interestingly enough, I found a 1996 manual for the FPX 44-ZC (which looks just like my 2014 model). Anyway, in the maintenance section, there is a blurb under the heading "Lubricate": "It is highly recommended that you periodically lubricate any moving parts such as the door hinges and the combustion air control. This will eliminate any scraping or squeaking noises as well as allow the parts to move freely. A high temperature lubricant, such as Permatex Industrial Anti-seize lubricant, is required. Graphite or low-temperature lubricants will only last a few days."

There is no such blurb in my operating manual...which bothers me a little.

I am thinking of lubing that slide under the assumption that it will either help or do nothing. Curious if you can lubricate the slide from the outside without removing the face plate (our mason reinstalled our brick a bit tighter than I would have liked). It would be great if I could just shoot the lubricant into the 1-3/4" slide channel...and have it work. But if I have to remove the face plate to do it right, I will.

The dealer is going to look at a floor model tomorrow to determine how best to lubricate that air control.