Freestanding wood stove or wood burning insert?

[vpchester]

I have reached the point of mind block doing research. I'm trying to heat my 1400 sq ft one story home primarily with a wood burning fire (at a minimum, 800 sq ft using wood as the primary source and the other area using the current electric split system). Currently, there is a gas insert that's not effective beyond the immediate room it's in. I have a masonry fireplace (house built in '68) that is 38" wide x 30" tall x 26" deep. The fireplace is in great shape, and doesn't appear to have been used very much (zero creosote build up).
I can't find a wood burning insert that gives me confidence that it will heat this space effectively. My budget for the entire project is $1,500. I'm planning to use a 6" stainless liner all the way up the chimney (approx 12 ft) and installing a block-off plate at the damper location. I also plan on installing a outside air source since the home is fairly air tight.
I like the looks of a free standing stove better than an insert. And, stoves appear to have larger fire boxes (I want 2+ cubic ft box at a minimum). The problem is, most stoves are at or more than 30" in height making it a tight fit at best and I don't want the stove to protrude from the fireplace opening more than 6-8 inches. Can I simply place a freestanding stove in the fireplace without legs? Or, perhaps just using 2" square steel tubing as a base? I don't need a stove with an ash pan but need to be sure the fresh air intake isn't in the bottom of the stove if I do away with the legs.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
PS - I don't like inserts that have the fan box in front with the electrical chord showing. Also, inserts seem to be more expensive than freestanding stoves.

 

[Laualie]

I'm a noob with barely a year on my new insert - Medium flush hybrid from FireplaceX. It runs on a SS liner up a 25' exterior chimney. I've had some issues with the insert, likely from poor install, but before those came up the insert heated my 1400sf Cape Cod enough to turn off the furnace even down into the single digits outside. We definitely don't have an airtight house with original 1950 Anderson windows. I was able to run the electrical down through the ash dump into the basement so I didn't have to look at the cord - agreed that it would have driven me nuts.

Can't recommend my particular insert yet but can attest that they can definitely heat a house. That being said, if I had the space for it, I would go with a stove.

 

[begreen]

The Hampton H300 would have worked well, but the new 2020 model is not out yet. A Drolet or Century insert would also work. However, the budget is not very realistic. A DIY install of an insulated liner will be $800-1000 probably and a new stove will start at around $1200.
Look at the Drolet 1800i and a used Century 2500i or Englander 13-NCi if you can find one.
Costco has been selling a package kit with the Drolet that may be worth looking into. There is a thread on installation of this kit here:

Drolet Escape 1800 insert install

I've learned a lot by reading the other install threads on here, so I thought I'd start my own. This is my first time installing an insert or stove, so advice/criticism would be appreciated. I'll be installing the insert and liner in an existing masonry fireplace/chimney, in a circa 1975 ranch...

www.hearth.com

 

[Riteway]

If you go the insert route, I think you'll need to track down a used one if you need to keep within your budget. I'm at around $2k for with a Drolet 1800 Escape insert install, and it's one of the cheapest inserts you can get (although still good quality, according to reviews). The blower fan cord is in the front, as well. All of the other parts you'll need (liner, liner insulation kit, Roxul insulation, etc...) will add several hundred to $1k to the cost.

 

[vpchester]

Thanks much. Yes, I know my budget is on the low end (I meant to say the stove/insert cost to be $1500). I already have the liner, connectors and other pieces sitting in my garage (I'm a retired plumber so I'm not concerned with the install - helped a friend install a wood stove a couple years ago... he's helping in return!).
I've been looking at a True North TN 20B (around $1500). Anyone have experience with one?

 

[begreen]

Thanks much. Yes, I know my budget is on the low end (I meant to say the stove/insert cost to be $1500). I already have the liner, connectors and other pieces sitting in my garage (I'm a retired plumber so I'm not concerned with the install - helped a friend install a wood stove a couple years ago... he's helping in return!).
I've been looking at a True North TN 20B (around $1500). Anyone have experience with one?

OK, that provides a bit more room. The TN 20 is a decent insert too. It has the advantage of having a more square firebox for N/S and E/W loading.

 

[vpchester]

Thanks very much for the input. What about the thought of placing a freestanding wood stove, without its legs, into the fireplace? Again, assuming there is no ash drawer underneath. I really don't need a surround (the inside of the fireplace is very clean).

 

[bholler]

Thanks very much for the input. What about the thought of placing a freestanding wood stove, without its legs, into the fireplace? Again, assuming there is no ash drawer underneath. I really don't need a surround (the inside of the fireplace is very clean).

A freestanding stove in the fireplace in most cases won't perform as well as an insert. An insert has a full convective jacket around it to help direct heat out of the firebox. A stove does not. So any heat radiating off any part of the stove but the front will in large part be absorbed by the masonry structure

 

[Mech e]

DROLET - ESCAPE 1800 WOOD INSERT TRIO (25')

Ideal for heating up to 2,100 ft², the Escape 1800 is the ultimate versatile wood insert! With only 1.54 g/h of particulate emissions, this non-catalytic appliance gives off up to 75,000 BTU/h. The Escape 1800 is the perfect choice to update your

myfireplaceproducts.com

Shipping included. Just need an insulation kit for the liner.

 

[vpchester]

Thank you very much. The Drolet Escape 1800 from MFP looks like a great deal. Last questions: a) by "insulation kit for the liner" do you mean insulation above the damper block off plate?, b) my house is within 100 ft of the ocean, will I need a different vent cap because of the wind?

 

[Riteway]

: a) by "insulation kit for the liner" do you mean insulation above the damper block off plate?,

No, it's an insulation blanket that goes around the liner (in addition to insulation above the damper block off plate). This is the one that I recently ordered: https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.c...tion/chimney-liner-insulation-blanket-kit.php

 

[begreen]

Yes, it is a blanket that wraps around the full length of the liner and then is encased in a sleeve of stainless steel mesh. You may need a special cap to reduce the effect of winds. They can be pretty strong at times on the coast. Do you have any neighbors with wood stoves? If so, it might be good to ask what they have and how well it works.

Traditionally a wind directional (rooster tail) cap has been used. You will want it to be made out of stainless due to the salt in the air. FAMCO makes one out of stainless.

Wind Directional Chimney Cap - Stainless Steel | FAMCO

The FAMCO Wind Directional Chimney Cap rotates with the wind to enhance updraft and prevent downdraft. Made with 26 gauge stainless steel.

www.famcomfg.com