Our home came with a Garrison One wood stove. We have used it only occasionally over the past 11 years. We received no documentation or instructions with the purchase of the home and I only recently learned that wood stoves should have fire brick installed. Upon inspection, I see that the stove has two fire bricks currently installed on the sides, with a spot for two additional bricks to be inserted. However, I do not see any place to install fire bricks along the back or the bottom. Is it needed in this wood stove? It takes an awful lot of wood and time for the stove to put out any heat, so my guess is this could be the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
Garrison One Fire brick question
- Thread starter rockinrobin
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Alex C
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Here is a cut away of a Garrison 2. Compare that to the inside of yours........ Notice the brick retainer at brick top. They just lay on the bottom of any stove. They measure 4 1/2 X 9 X 1 1/4 thick so you can usually figure out how they fit. Cutting is easy with a masonry blade in a circular saw. Score and break easily. They are softer than regular brick. Always burn on at least an inch of ash on the bottom, even on brick.
https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/garrsion_two.pdf
I added "Garrison One" to your thread title so anyone familiar with the stove will see it and hopefully respond.
https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/garrsion_two.pdf
I added "Garrison One" to your thread title so anyone familiar with the stove will see it and hopefully respond.
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This is helpful, thanks! It turns out that the metal sheet in the back was not up high as it is shown in this image. Ours is in front of the rear facing fire brick, so I didn't even known it was hidden back there. Below are a few pics. Is the "cord" around the door ok, or does the loose piece on the side need to be replaced?
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Hi Alex,
I posted pics below (above?). I think I have solved the mystery! The angled baffle was not up high, as it should be. Instead, it was placed vertically against the rear fire bricks, completely covering them (I had NO IDEA they were even back there!). I also discovered that there are fire bricks on the bottom of the box, but they had been so tightly packed in, it looked like a solid sheet. I was able to loosen a couple along the edge to see that they are indeed individual bricks. Whew! I will purchase two additional bricks for the empty slots along the front sides and we should be good to go.
You all have been so helpful. I am deeply appreciative of the time you have taken to help me.
Power was down all day or I would have gotten back to you sooner;
You can check the door gasket by closing the door on a dollar bill and dragging it out all around the seal. The drag should be the same and if it doesn't make good contact in spots you'll know. If it leaks, air will leak in during operation allowing it to burn harder. With the stove burning, you can shake out a match around the door gasket to see if the smoke is drawn in too. Gasket material is sold at most hardware stores by the foot off the roll or prepackaged. It's available in round or flat in various sizes. So measure or take an old piece with you to match it up. Rutland Stove and Gasket Cement works good to attach it. Fire for final cure.
When you clean out ash, always keep about an inch of ash in the bottom to protect bricks if you drop wood in and it helps slow the fire keeping air from the bottom of logs. Coals last much longer in ash.
As far as getting it up to temp and output ;
When they sit unused, the brick can absorb moisture from the atmosphere and the first fire won't seem to put much heat out. A lot of heat is used turning it to steam and the evaporated moisture cools the chimney slowing draft which is what allows air into the fire.
Are you using seasoned wood? Does it sizzle?
Are you burning with doors closed or a screen in place?
Next thing to check is the chimney. That is more important than the stove since it makes the stove work. Consider it the engine that runs the stove. Is the flue diameter the same as the stove outlet all the way up? Indoor or outdoor chimney, prefab metal or masonry?
You can check the door gasket by closing the door on a dollar bill and dragging it out all around the seal. The drag should be the same and if it doesn't make good contact in spots you'll know. If it leaks, air will leak in during operation allowing it to burn harder. With the stove burning, you can shake out a match around the door gasket to see if the smoke is drawn in too. Gasket material is sold at most hardware stores by the foot off the roll or prepackaged. It's available in round or flat in various sizes. So measure or take an old piece with you to match it up. Rutland Stove and Gasket Cement works good to attach it. Fire for final cure.
When you clean out ash, always keep about an inch of ash in the bottom to protect bricks if you drop wood in and it helps slow the fire keeping air from the bottom of logs. Coals last much longer in ash.
As far as getting it up to temp and output ;
When they sit unused, the brick can absorb moisture from the atmosphere and the first fire won't seem to put much heat out. A lot of heat is used turning it to steam and the evaporated moisture cools the chimney slowing draft which is what allows air into the fire.
Are you using seasoned wood? Does it sizzle?
Are you burning with doors closed or a screen in place?
Next thing to check is the chimney. That is more important than the stove since it makes the stove work. Consider it the engine that runs the stove. Is the flue diameter the same as the stove outlet all the way up? Indoor or outdoor chimney, prefab metal or masonry?
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