Gasket Replacement

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Hope everyone has a wonderful and warm Thanksgiving!
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

Vikestand

Feeling the Heat
Oct 29, 2014
292
Missurah
I'll try to keep this long story short. Our Cumberland Gap was installed in late December 2012, after my wife and I bought my parents house and land. There is a gasket on the stove that seals up to the bi-doors on the front. This gasket fell off the stove one evening last January(it had sealed well until that point).

Now to be honest growing up I rarely remember my dad having to changing the gasket on our old smoke dragon, so I thought this was odd. I called the dealership we got the stove from and said it was normal wear and so on. The day after the gasket came off my 3 month old son went into the hospital for RSV a few days. So I had this company come out and replace the gasket.

My mom was there when they did it, I figured it was a job well done, considering it was supposed to be done professionally. Boy was I wrong. They had a 1/2" gasket instead of the 7/16" gasket in the groove. You couldn't even close the right door. Needless to say that killed my wood burning days for last winter.

Doing my fall routine maintenance, I go to take the seal off and realized this guy used an absurd amount of cement. Almost as if he didn't attempt to clean the groove out before putting a new seal in.

I tried everything without accidently damaging the porcelain on the rest of the stove. It has been a pain in the rear. I finally borrowed a Dremmel from work with a "ball/sphere" grinder that fit perfectly into that groove and cleaned it up nice and smooth.

My question to you experts, I have the 7/16" rope in my possession, do you use flexible high heat silicone from Rutland or Cement? The cement has been a nightmare as far as I am concerned. But what say you?
 
You can use either. The nice thing about the Rutland Gasket cement is that it cleans up with a wet paper towel.
Which ever one you use, make sure you "prime" the groove first. Remove the door(s) and lay them flat. Run a small (1/8" wide) bead of adhesive down the middle of the groove & with your pinkie, a Q-Tip or a piece of gasket, smear it so that it covers the entire groove surface.
Let is set up for a couple of minutes & then run a larger (1/4") bead thru the groove. Press the gasket into the cement in the groove
and work your way around the door. DO NOT STRETCH THE GASKET. Many folks start in a corner, but I was taught to start
between the hinge posts. Start with a nice clean, square cut end & do not cut the other end until you are all the way around.
Re-hang the doors, close & latch them, & let them sit for a couple of hours before you open them again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Woody Stover
Seems like sound advice! Thanks. Is there a secret to getting the gasket to stay in place on the vertical surface while laying it in place? I thought about starting in a location I could put a C-Clamp on the end to hold in place while working it round the stove. Or will the rutland cement hold it there well enough?
 
Remove the doors & lay them flat. No vertical to worry about.


I think you're misunderstanding(which is easy with my instructions) The groove is actually on the WOODSTOVE not the doors. The seal does a full outline of the opening on the front. There are no seals on the doors other than where they meet each other/overlap.
 
Ok, I misunderstood. Follow the same procedure & there should be enough tackiness to the adhesive to prevent the gasket from pulling away. as soon as it's in place, simply close the doors and latch them...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Vikestand
Small thread hijack. I also need to replace my gasket. I watched some YouTube videos and in a couple they suggested lightly moistening the track and gasket before applying the cement. Any thoughts?

My gasket is also on the stove and what a PIA to get the old cement out. Be so much easier to be able to remove the doors and place them on a flat surface.

Johanna
 
Small thread hijack. I also need to replace my gasket. I watched some YouTube videos and in a couple they suggested lightly moistening the track and gasket before applying the cement. Any thoughts?

My gasket is also on the stove and what a PIA to get the old cement out. Be so much easier to be able to remove the doors and place them on a flat surface.

I use a wet paper towel to make sure there is no dust left in the grooves, especially when gasket cement was used previously. Never heard of moistening the gasket itself...

Johanna
 
I figured it was a job well done, considering it was supposed to be done professionally.
;lol Good one! ;) Read here long enough and you'll find out all about these "professionals." :rolleyes:
 
Just my 2 cents, but I would always use only pure 100% silicone instead of the rutland cement (which tends to result in gaskets that just fall right off one day like the original person observed). Also it will easily hold the gasket in place while you work if your setup requires a vertical install. Dremel tool is good for cleaning out the old grooves, if you don't have one, round file, chisel, or screwdriver can be used.
 
Read here long enough and you'll find out all about these "professionals."

i take offense to that i know it is an old post but it bothers me you just need to find good pros like any trade there are good ones and bad ones check references and fine someone you trust. And i always use silicone on door gasket.
 
i take offense to that i know it is an old post but it bothers me you just need to find good pros like any trade there are good ones and bad ones check references and fine someone you trust.
Sorry, bh. People go and buy a stove, then let the dealer install it, but it sometimes doesn't end too well for them. Shouldn't be that way; If I were a dealer, I'd make sure the job was done right. The customer shouldn't have to do a lot of extra work to make sure it's done properly, and a lot of them don't know enough about it to know if their installer is good or bad.
 
I get that but it bothers me that pros get very little respect here most i deal with are pretty good like any other field you need to check references there are definitely some hacks out there to. Sorry to call you out on it personally i have just seen it allot lately and it bothered me
 
Status
Not open for further replies.