Gauges - Placement & Quantity (Seton / Greenwood)

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JMann

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jun 27, 2008
106
Southern PA
I'm thinking of putting a temperature gauge on my return line, after the three-way mix valve, to be sure that the return temps are not contributing to creosote accumulation. Does this make sense or is there a better place to put the gauge. On that topic, what other gauges are considered important for troubleshooting & verifying efficiency? I want to get this right the first time and really don't want to go crazy with unnecessary gadgets (no matter how cool they seem to be). I'm very close to completion and can't wait to post the final photos.
 
Hi JMann
My favorite gauge are a high quality draft gauge , internal probe type stack temp gauge , a pottery type long reach digital temp sensor that can measures the internal core temp of the fire box and last but not least the stock tridicator on the output side . Wish I had a temp gauge on the return . Congratulations on your new boiler . Try to break it slowly with small fires for extended periods of time and use dry wood so it stays clean . Always keep in mind your boiler has a big flywheel effect and will give off usable heat for many hours after the fire is out .
Hope this is useful info .
Anthony
 
i dont use a mixing valve but have inline temp gauges on my supply and return to my seton w200/w130 or whatever else you want to call it.
 
I think guages make perfect sense. Althought I have practically none, one on the Seton and one on my oil boiler which I don't think is very accurate.
I don't have a creosote build-up problem, fortunately. She does need a cleaning after one season. No HX, no mixing valve, hooked direct to the oil boiler, one circ pump 24/7.
Over time I have learned that you can guage temp by touch on copper or steel pipes; you can hold 120 deg's, 130-140 not as long, 150-160 not long if at all, 170-180 no way, ouch!
 
Thanks for the feedback. Is your Seton located in an outbuilding or inside with the oil heater? If in outbuilding: did you insulate your outbuilding pipes?
 
I got mine from the CB dealer, around $15/each, 1/2" thread, direct immersion mounted on supply and return. Use a 1 x 1/2 x 1 (or whatever size your supply/return taps are) tee, mount it on the end of the tee.
 
JMann said:
Thanks for the feedback. Is your Seton located in an outbuilding or inside with the oil heater? If in outbuilding: did you insulate your outbuilding pipes?
My boilers are in a separate all masonry building , the building also is the home for my home made endless pool , storage tanks ,backup oil boiler , solar system on roof . The pipes are insulated with three layers of split pipe insulation . My next project is to try improve on heat loss from my crazy system layout . The building is very well insulated and has created a perfect environment for year round swimming ,everything in the room stays around 85 degrees F including the bare cement floor and pool water without added heat , I have no excuse to avoid workouts . One other very important thing is ,the boilers always have a constant supply of pre warmed combustion air , I think it has helped the Seton run very clean .
Anthony
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DNK3BMuteR0
 
Yes, my wood boiler is in my "man cave" off the back of the garage. Insulated room with enough SF to store some wood "pellets" I like to call them. Exposed piping in the garage is not insulated, once it connects to the pex and goes underground it is in insulation and conduit.
Thankfully this is not in my basement, although I would love the heat gain. The smoke when loading would just be too much.
 
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