I have a troy built 5500w gen. I'm going to wire the house this weekend and would like to know what size wire would be best. 8-3 or 10-3 thanks
Generator wire size
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10-3 romex is rated for 30 amps. 8-3 romex is rated for 40 amps. 5500 watts / 240 volts = 23 amps. You can get by with 10-3 wire. If the length of wire is going to be over 75 feet, use 8-3 wire for voltage drop.
What type of wire are you referring to? Romex, SO cord?
Remember to have a means of disconnecting from the local electrical provider so the power does not back feed onto the power grid.
What type of wire are you referring to? Romex, SO cord?
Remember to have a means of disconnecting from the local electrical provider so the power does not back feed onto the power grid.
Former Farmer said:
Romex is what i had in mind. I will be wireing a transfer box to my main box so i don't cook the guy on the pole. The length won't be any more than 30 feet max. Thanks for the help.
Also do not forget the constant use de-rating factor, 80%. Making that #10 line good for 24 amps.
If you are going to run a load on the line for long peroids on time you should de-rate the line by 20 % due to heat in the line. It is a standard code thing for saftey. 30 amps - 20 % = 24 amps
But a generator @5500 watts is not going to be delivering 100% all the time, so it comes down to load and more math. Most of the time its closer to 50%.
I should get more than half if i don't run a bunch of stuff all at once right? This is all new to me. All i want to do is run the fridge,some lights if i need them, the furance blower fan if needed and the pellet stove, maybe a TV. So i'm looking at one 30amp breaker and four 15 amp breakers thats it.
You may be interested in putting in an interlock kit so that you can run anything, not pay that much, and still be safe. I have a SquareD panel so I got this one:
http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Electrical Distribution/Load Centers/Accessories-Homeline-HOM-LK-PK-QOM/40273-809-02.pdf
I would've used a 5kw generator I already had if it wouldn't have been for that darn deep well pump.
http://static.schneider-electric.us/docs/Electrical Distribution/Load Centers/Accessories-Homeline-HOM-LK-PK-QOM/40273-809-02.pdf
I would've used a 5kw generator I already had if it wouldn't have been for that darn deep well pump.
livefreeordie said:
If you don't have the well pump then you're all set. A simple transfer switch like Reliance with 6 breakers/switches will work. You're going to want the bathroom lights, some outlets, the fridge and the furnace. If you've got sub panels to run it gets more complicated. 30 amps (aka 10/3 ) is good enough.
btuser said:
One sub panel that runs the den with the pellet stove and a TV, thats a 30 amp breaker. The other four breakers will cover the rest that i need. No sump pump.
I do not understand that as I can run 30 amps through #10 wire for 24/7 and the wire will not even be warm to the touch as long as the voltage drop is with in the guide lines.wingman1776 said:
oldspark said:
I've argued this on both sides of the fence in code classes. One side convinced that you have to degrade for corrosion/aging (like wine I guess) and the ever present "round up in case we f*ck up" therory, and others who will run a single circuit to one end of the house and back again, confident that the breaker is going to do the math for them. Its also about the conductor rating at the ambient temp. Is the conductor going to be spray-foamed, or in a pipe? I've got 13 amps running through my 16 gauge vacuum cord and it get's hot, but I haven't burned my house down yet.
Hi All,
I recently wired in my generator to my main panel using an interlock kit from here (http://www.interlockkit.com). It's a bit expensive for a couple pieces of metal ($140), but now I can access any of the circuits in my house instead of only chosen ones--this works well because I have a split and if I'd only had a few circuits, I'd lose a lot of light/outlets. Of course, I have electric heat so I'll only be running my fridge, microwave, some lights, water heater, etc. Just got completed and inspected a month ago; of course, now that it's ready to go I'll probably never need it.
Godspeed, and Happy New Year!
S
I recently wired in my generator to my main panel using an interlock kit from here (http://www.interlockkit.com). It's a bit expensive for a couple pieces of metal ($140), but now I can access any of the circuits in my house instead of only chosen ones--this works well because I have a split and if I'd only had a few circuits, I'd lose a lot of light/outlets. Of course, I have electric heat so I'll only be running my fridge, microwave, some lights, water heater, etc. Just got completed and inspected a month ago; of course, now that it's ready to go I'll probably never need it.
Godspeed, and Happy New Year!
S
Yeah, it's cool--in my situation, I'll need to shut off all my electric heat circuits, but it will be nice to have the garage openers available and all the lights around the house. Thought we might need it this last storm, but nope!
Good luck,
S
Good luck,
S
I'm probably going to go with the interlock kit, but I'm having a hard time paying $150 for a two metal plates. My other choice is a 10 circuit transfer switch + a lot of rewiring from a sub panel which is going to come to about $500 all said and done.
I found it cheaper to get it from SquareD, since I have a SquareD panel. It's cheaper to get it from the maker, if possible, instead of going with the web site above.
thinkxingu said:
Yeah, we thought the same thing about the last storm, glad we didn't lose the power because i'm still in the process of wiring the basement.
Yeah, the Square D version is less expensive, but it only works on some of their panels. Most other companies don't make one, which is why Interlock is able to stay in business!
btuser: I hear ya on the 10-circuit transfer, but at that point you might as well save the $ and have access to all!
S
btuser: I hear ya on the 10-circuit transfer, but at that point you might as well save the $ and have access to all!
S
I used an interlock "panel" that came from the factory with the sliding mechanism. I think it is a great idea and the BEST way to do power your house with a generator.
Use 10/3 for up to 30 amps and forget you ever heard about this continuous derating jive, it does not apply to this situation. It is much easier to work with 10/3 than 8/3 as well. I feed the 30 amp generator circuit with a 3500 watt genset, the smallest 220 volter I could find. That 5000 watter will suck some major fuel, expect more than .5 gallon per hour nomatter how it is loaded.
Use 10/3 for up to 30 amps and forget you ever heard about this continuous derating jive, it does not apply to this situation. It is much easier to work with 10/3 than 8/3 as well. I feed the 30 amp generator circuit with a 3500 watt genset, the smallest 220 volter I could find. That 5000 watter will suck some major fuel, expect more than .5 gallon per hour nomatter how it is loaded.
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