Geyser HPWH help

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hemlock

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
May 6, 2009
455
east coast canada
Hello,
I'm having a bit of an issue with my Geyeser recently not keeping up with demand. I realize that recovery time is much slower than with a conventional electric, but was wondering if I were to turn up the thermostat on the upper element of the electric tank if it would help with a quicker recovery?

Thanks.
 
Hello,
I'm having a bit of an issue with my Geyeser recently not keeping up with demand. I realize that recovery time is much slower than with a conventional electric, but was wondering if I were to turn up the thermostat on the upper element of the electric tank if it would help with a quicker recovery?

Thanks.

At this time of year, our Geyser struggles a bit. It needs a source of warm air to run well and there isn't much of that around. Our Geyser is in our basement but at 55 degF, this is close to the edge of the Geyser efficient operating range.

If I remember correctly, the Geyser installation manual recommends doing exactly what you suggest.

We use our Geyser to replace oil. I have our oil water heater set on a timer and if the DHW is too cold at 6 am, it turns on to supply hot water. It is then shut off again at 8 am until the next day. Our Geyser can handle the rest. This system has worked for 2 winters now.
 
At this time of year, our Geyser struggles a bit. It needs a source of warm air to run well and there isn't much of that around. Our Geyser is in our basement but at 55 degF, this is close to the edge of the Geyser efficient operating range.

If I remember correctly, the Geyser installation manual recommends doing exactly what you suggest.

We use our Geyser to replace oil. I have our oil water heater set on a timer and if the DHW is too cold at 6 am, it turns on to supply hot water. It is then shut off again at 8 am until the next day. Our Geyser can handle the rest. This system has worked for 2 winters now.

The Geyser has been working well until recently, so I assume the cold spell we've been under may have something to do with it as also. I've truned up the thermostat on the upper element (you're right, the manual says to do so). I'll see what happens.
We've had two power bills since installation, and the Geyser seems to have cut our overall power consumtion by about 1/3. Perhaps we'll see an even larger drop when the warmer weather rolls around again.
 
The Geyser has been working well until recently, so I assume the cold spell we've been under may have something to do with it as also. I've truned up the thermostat on the upper element (you're right, the manual says to do so). I'll see what happens.
We've had two power bills since installation, and the Geyser seems to have cut our overall power consumtion by about 1/3. Perhaps we'll see an even larger drop when the warmer weather rolls around again.

Our Geyser makes great gains in cost saving from April thru November. It makes a huge difference in the summer where the hot air in helps the efficiency and the dry air output helps lower the A/C bill. I've found that we are never worse off in winter, just a smaller gain.
 
Hi Hemlock,

I have found that my Geyser does a lot better job of keeping up with the winter time hot water heating demand now that I super-insulated the flexible hoses to and from the Geyser to the hot water heater. You simply cannot have any exposed hose surface at all, and double-insulating these hoses will make a huge difference. I purchased additional insulation material and my hoses have twice the insulation around them now, and no exposed surfaces.

I would also make sure that the Geyser is not set any higher than 120 degrees F. Then, turn your upper element to maybe 130 degrees F. Try keeping it off until you see if you really need it - reducing the heat losses through the hose connections will likely make the difference unless your basement is colder than 50 degrees F.
 
Hi Hemlock,

I have found that my Geyser does a lot better job of keeping up with the winter time hot water heating demand now that I super-insulated the flexible hoses to and from the Geyser to the hot water heater. You simply cannot have any exposed hose surface at all, and double-insulating these hoses will make a huge difference. I purchased additional insulation material and my hoses have twice the insulation around them now, and no exposed surfaces.

I would also make sure that the Geyser is not set any higher than 120 degrees F. Then, turn your upper element to maybe 130 degrees F. Try keeping it off until you see if you really need it - reducing the heat losses through the hose connections will likely make the difference unless your basement is colder than 50 degrees F.

Thanks. I'll double up on the insulation, and might try the thermostat setting you suggest.
 
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