gorilla tape to plug air inlets
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Why would you want to do that? Unless you are having a flue fire, there should be no reason for this. Aluminum foils works so I hear.
I wouldn't - probably have a gooey mess and you need to constantly remove and reapply - sounds like a PITA. I've also read of folks using aluminum foil to block the secondary inlets (after the secondaries have ended in the burn cycle) in order to limit air into the firebox and lengthen the life of the coals. I've done so to limit a real firestorm in the stove once and it did seem to help, but haven't done so to extend the coals and I'd only want to do so during shoulder season - in cold temps I'm usually trying to burn the coals down to get the next load into the stove. There was a member a few years ago (precaud? might be wrong) who came up with some modifications to open close the secondary inlets (a lever mechanism with a sliding door over the inlets) - you might be able to search for those threads. Cheers!
lopiliberty
Minister of Fire
if your going to use tape use the aluminum foil heat tape, even then the stove might get to hot for that. I use two pieces of aluminum foil to cover my air inlets but only when I have a run away fire. I have no need to cover them to extend the burn cause I'm pretty happy with my burn times. If you want extended burn times maybe you need to look at a cat stove when it comes time for a new stove
mepellet
Minister of Fire
No. You just got it running right yesterday. These stoves are finely tuned. Learn to use it well before considering any changes. Mods should only be considered for problem solving, like when you have a 35 ft flue. Give it a season just like it is and learn how to burn well under different conditions, loading techniques and wood species.
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This stove has a 15-16' pipe at high altitude. I strongly doubt it needs a pipe damper.
I didn't know that, or missed it somehow.
With 15', I can't imagine any issues whatsoever!
It always amazes me me that we think we can out think years of engineering with duct tape.
Smoke Stack
Member
I know its finally working good. And the more I have learned about it the better it gets. But I am a tinker so I have to play with things sometimes to understand them better. Its fun, what else can I say.
So I tried the aluminum foil and I have a question. Now before and after it seems to run the same just at different spots on the air control. So why do my secondaries pulsate filling the entire stove and then nothing. On YouTube many people get a continuous cloud. On mine about the time the bottom flames on the wood get lazy the top keep pulsating. Do the secondaries need more air or does the stove need better wood, better operator?
So I tried the aluminum foil and I have a question. Now before and after it seems to run the same just at different spots on the air control. So why do my secondaries pulsate filling the entire stove and then nothing. On YouTube many people get a continuous cloud. On mine about the time the bottom flames on the wood get lazy the top keep pulsating. Do the secondaries need more air or does the stove need better wood, better operator?
Your stove sounds like it's working fine. Spend the rest of the season observing instead of tinkering. Random secondaries are common when the stove is at the perfect point of burning. Grab a brew, sit back and enjoy the light show.
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Oh I know its working fine now that the baffles are up where they should be. I love it now. I was just gonna mess around a bit, but oh well. That tip about the tin foil is a good one though for plugging those holes in case of an overfire. Although on those -20 degree nights we might just have to let her overfire if she gets away from us.
Hey on a serious note tonight begreen thank you for all of your help with the baffles. Life is a lot better now without a stinky house. Your knowledge with stoves is top notch and very appreciated. Thanks
A lot of the videos and pics you see of awesome secondaries are not always the norm. Judge the performance by whats coming out of the stack. I kept walking outside for the first 2 weeks I owned a stove until I became comfortable where to set it at.
Every load is different.. sometimes I can get aired down just right, with the right load, and it looks like a freeking gas broiler in there for hours.. other times.. nutin'. Sometimes the secondaries run on 1/2 of the tube, or different parts of the same tube or the front tube and rear tube but not the middle tube.. it is what it is, and we are warm.. life is good.
Happy New Year!!
Well as BB so well stated a few weeks ago these stove were designed to burn clean (pass the EPA standards), nothing less nothing more so is it any wonder quite a few on this forum are modifying there stoves with tweaks here and there.
I have . . . and in fact right now . . . used some folded foil on the air inlet to help moderate a very hot burn. For some reason I have had more than a few very hot fires this year . . . well maybe the fact that I am burning three year old beech, oak and black locust for the first time in all the years I have been burning . . . so far none of the fires have gone to dangerously hot levels. Normal loads of maple, birch, ash, etc. have been fine . . . it's just the high BTU woods that have had me a bit antsy.
One thing I have not done is totally occlude the air inlet . . . I don't like the idea of the fire being too starved for air. I doubt it would happen in a woodstove, but I suspect a few firefighters know what happens when a room or building is very hot and starved for oxygen to the point that it is smoldering . . .
One thing I have not done is totally occlude the air inlet . . . I don't like the idea of the fire being too starved for air. I doubt it would happen in a woodstove, but I suspect a few firefighters know what happens when a room or building is very hot and starved for oxygen to the point that it is smoldering . . .
The majority of stoves out in homes do not need tweaking. These are fine tuned machines. Tweaking without a real understanding of what one is doing can lead to poorer, dirtier burning. Reminds me of a relative that just couldn't leave well enough alone. He took a perfectly beautiful Fiat 124 sports car and "tweaked" it. This was a new car and his wife's favorite. After the tweaking his wife would not drive it again.
I agree with you. They don't want you to burn low and slow (smolder) on these EPA approved secondary tube stoves.
But I can see where a EPA stove installed on a very high draft flue could be a problem.
For those with that situation would you suggest a damper before modifying the secondary air intake?
The OP's case is not a high-draft issue at all. Actually I think in shoulder season it will have low draft symptoms due to the 6000 ft altitude. In high draft situations a pipe damper is preferable for most as it doesn't permanently change stove performance or risk voiding warranty.
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