Grandma Bear door seal issues

[lv_III]

Hey all, new here in hopes someone can shed some light on my situation. I just bought a grandma bear. Seemed to be in decent shape other than some firebrick and a loose door, which I attributed to the lack of gasket while I was inspecting this stove on sight. It wasn't until I got the stove home and read on this forum that I realized these stoves aren't designed for a gasket. There was some leftover gasket on the stove. Anyways, as you can see in the pictures, the door isn't even close to sealing and all I can think of is that the door is warped. I did heat and bend the latch but that didn't make a difference.

The latch door barely makes contact, and because of this the left door is loose when they are closed together.

You should be able to see the Elmers Glue I used to identify where the door is making contact... On the outside inner channel on the stove. I put glue on the door and what you're seeing on the stove is where it made contact.

I did wire wheel all of the channels clean. I've given the door pins a good look and they seem to be in decent shape, a little bit of play but nothing too concerning. I have a Poppa Bear right next to it that seals great with similar play in the hinges.

How can I verify if the door is warped? Does anyone have any other thoughts?

 

[stoveliker]

Put A straight edge along the door...

I think it's more likely the stove body is warped?

 

[coaly]

The back of door has rusted beyond sealing. The raised edge on door is supposed to be smooth and flat to contact the center web of iron door seal. The edges of channel iron should be smooth to contact rear side of door. This gives 3 points of contact all the way around.

The contact area was rough cast iron, and was possible to remove (milling machine) no more than .050 inch material from sealing area. This had to be done before drilling hinge pin holes.

Flat gasket used for glass installation needs to be installed in channel iron door seal.

I have a granite surface plate for machine shop use that items are laid on, and feeler gauge is used to measure clearance showing flatness such as used on cylinder heads. If you have a flat counter, check it with the straight edge of a 3 or 4 foot level. Using a feeler gauge, test along level length. This will give you how flat the surface is. Flip level to see if you get the same measurement. (This checks level straightness) Lay door on flat surface and measure clearance all the way around to determine flatness.

Check door seal with straight edge the same way.

See Note 4 and 5 below;

 

[coaly]

You can use a straight edge of level to check a stove top to use as a flat surface plate for testing doors for straightness.

In background is a granite surface plate tester I keep a piece of paneling on to prevent wear as things inevitably get placed on it.


This thing is as heavy as a stove itself.

 

[Itslay90]

You can use a straight edge of level to check a stove top to use as a flat surface plate for testing doors for straightness.

In background is a granite surface plate tester I keep a piece of paneling on to prevent wear as things inevitably get placed on it.

View attachment 329395
This thing is as heavy as a stove itself.

Is th

Hey all, new here in hopes someone can shed some light on my situation. I just bought a grandma bear. Seemed to be in decent shape other than some firebrick and a loose door, which I attributed to the lack of gasket while I was inspecting this stove on sight. It wasn't until I got the stove home and read on this forum that I realized these stoves aren't designed for a gasket. There was some leftover gasket on the stove. Anyways, as you can see in the pictures, the door isn't even close to sealing and all I can think of is that the door is warped. I did heat and bend the latch but that didn't make a difference.

The latch door barely makes contact, and because of this the left door is loose when they are closed together.

You should be able to see the Elmers Glue I used to identify where the door is making contact... On the outside inner channel on the stove. I put glue on the door and what you're seeing on the stove is where it made contact.

I did wire wheel all of the channels clean. I've given the door pins a good look and they seem to be in decent shape, a little bit of play but nothing too concerning. I have a Poppa Bear right next to it that seals great with similar play in the hinges.

How can I verify if the door is warped? Does anyone have any other thoughts?

View attachment 329384

View attachment 329385

View attachment 329386

View attachment 329387

View attachment 329388

any updates?

 

[lv_III]

Well, I went ahead and messed with the door before seeing these responses. The lower raised portion of the door seal was making contact inside the iron door deal on the stove, and that was the only place I was getting contact, it was stopping the door from continuing to close. It would make contact on the right hand side of the stove and that was it. I shaved that raised portion on the door down until I got the doors closed well enough. I can now get them snug and all, they're not close to sealing. I'm looking to find some flat gasket material, currently.

I'll work to verify the straightness of the door with the above mentioned methods this week. I find it hard to believe the whole stove is more prone to warping than the door... is it common to see these stoves warp "out of square"?

If I find that the doors are out of whack, is there any hope to source replacements?

Much appreciated folks for the advice, folks. This stove will be my first installation ever, hearth and all. I've heated with wood for the past 6 years but not with this style of stove, I'm really looking forward to it.

 

[coaly]

No, they don’t warp out of square, and the cast doors are not prone to warping either.

You cannot simply change doors on these stoves.

There were many door patterns at different foundries that differ slightly, so each door was fitted to the stove.

The stove is laid on its back, doors centered on seal. Hinge plates are tacked to stove face and closing and sealing tested. Then hinge plates are fully welded in position.