Grandma Bear Firebrick Layout And Operators Manual

[Frankdozer]

In just purchased a Grandma Bear from the original first owner for $350. He purchased it new in New Hampshire in the 70s. It’s has the flat top doors with top 8” diameter flue. Looks like he didn’t use it much. He recently spray painted the stove so it looks like new and none of the firebrick needs to be replaced.
To transport the stove I removed the doors and the firebrick. What I didn’t do was take pictures of the firebrick layout.
Can anyone help me with a firebrick layout diagram .......
The feet have adjustable round chrome balls for leveling.
I’m also hoping someone can help me out with an Operators Manual.
Thanks,
Frank

 

[coaly]

Manual here; which won't show firebrick layout like the newer manuals with arched top doors.
https://www.hearth.com/images/uploads/Fisher_Manual.pdf

IF your brick clips are welded to the height of installing back and side bricks first, a full brick will fit from bottom to clip. They are installed back first, sides, then bottom. IF the vertical bricks allow the bottom to fit under them and fit under brick clips, the bottom goes in first. This is the way shown on original drawings, but it was found bricks were not held into position and broke during shipping, so most fabricators lowered the brick clips to allow the back and sides to be installed first, then fill in the bottom to hold them tight.

IF this is the case which it normally is; Start with a full brick across the back in left rear corner. Continue across back covering rear wall (5) to end. There were some made wider, so some require a cut strip to reach wall at right rear corner. Install side bricks starting at rear with small cut piece at front if required.
Start bottom at left rear, full bricks lengthwise facing front to back. Continue across using any cut pieces at far right if required. Continue with front row the same way.

It is imperative to have the inside VERY clean with no brick grit or ash between any bricks since they should fit tight when done. I vacuum very well with shop vac before installing. Ash will fill any gaps, and always burn on an inch of ash when cleaning.

 

[Frankdozer]

Thanks Coaly, I really appreciate all the info you posted. My side bricks need to be installed first based on the height of the retaining angle irons. The bottom bricks on mine were installed left to right the long way. I’m going to change to your way left to right short way.
I’m also gonna install the baffle with the notches on the left and right front corners.
One thing I should mention is that the flue opening in my chimney is 6” diameter where as the top flue on Grandma is 8” diameter ( actually 7.75 or 7. 875 ). I think I’ll come off the top of the stove with the 8” pipe with a damper ... change to 6” then 90 into the 6” chimney flue opening. My previous stove was a giant Glacier Bay and the flue seemed to have plenty of draw.
What do you think? This OK?
Thanks,
Frank

 

[coaly]

It will work fine, but legally can only be reduced by 1 inch. The codes were written to prevent reducing the size smaller than the stove outlet. Most stoves were sized for their firebox size, but yours was designed to be connected to a larger existing fireplace flue, so they were oversize compared to making them more efficient. If they were made with 6 inch and a customer connected it to a much larger chimney, you wouldn't get enough heat up the stack to keep it clean. There are no smoke roll in problems reducing to 6 and many baffle them as well. Just make sure the smoke space (area which smoke travels) above the baffle is no less then the cross sectional diameter of chimney flue, in your case 28.25 square inches.
Reducing at the stove allows the velocity of rising gasses to be faster with less loss through the single wall connector pipe. It doesn't make much difference. You probably won't be using much flue damper with doors shut, only as an air control when in Fireplace Mode.