Grandma Bear ULC specification plate

[EasyRyder]

Need to find ULC specification info at the back of the stove for stove installation clearance from combustible materials on all sides on my Fisher Grandma Bear post 1980 with double glass door as my plate is mostly unreadable. Serial number WH-165233.

 

[Dave R]

Hello,
It's difficult to tell from the pics but looks like the label was painted over? Have you tried paint thinner or brake clean and a soft cloth to see if the paint wipes off? Just don't use anything abrasive because if will become unreadable.

 

[EasyRyder]

Thanks, Dave, this is a very good idea I never even thought of I will surely look again though I think that the paint has flaked off due to the heat and I am not the original owner but the new chimney builder will not connect the stove with his certification unless I give him the specs from an old manual or a picture of a better tag plate with readable specs – need clearances from the stove and the back wall – so I am still looking online for some one with some info.

 

[coaly]

You need a Series III Canadian Manual or tag picture. The manual will have CSA on the front.
I have specs and tag pictures for that stove made in the US, not Canada. Your clearances are larger. I've found very few Canadian manuals.
That's a Warnock Hersey (WH) testing lab label. (Now Intertek) Their online certification directory doesn't go back that far.
I think that WH number is a control number, not stove serial number. They may be able to look up that number for specs. That's what Northwest Testing Labs called that number on their labels.

 

[coaly]

Hello,
It's difficult to tell from the pics but looks like the label was painted over? Have you tried paint thinner or brake clean and a soft cloth to see if the paint wipes off? Just don't use anything abrasive because if will become unreadable.

Sure does! (from here) I find WD-40, Kerosene, Diesel fuel or Mineral Spirits is the least aggressive. Lacquer thinner is the last resort that takes everything.

 

[EasyRyder]

Thanks Coaly I will look into that latest info of it being painted over.

 

[coaly]

Looking at all the pictures of labels I have, the paint is glossy and never flaked off. It's like baked on enamel around the area you number was cleaned off. That label should be on a rear shield that stays cooler too. Here's model III labels I have that don't show signs of degrading;

 

[EasyRyder]

Thanks Coaly
You guys were bang on about a previous owner painting the ULC plate with stove paint, took your advice and cleaned ove the plate by scrapping the paint with a razor blade and some Goo Gone solution and bingo ther it was as the attached picture will testify. I am so happy now but wait till the stove installer sees this as the measurements are much greater than the previous installer had used. I will have to make some adjustments to the surroundings as per specs for the cumbustibles distances before the installer will consent to connect to the chimney.
Please check the attached picture and note that this is called Grandma Bear/Teddy Bear (Canadian manufacture – instead of Grandma Bear III USA ) right at the top. You were right about WH meaning Warnock Hershey, now Interteck. When I checked my stove at the back it does not have any heat sheild plate added to it. Presently I have a brick wall over the concrete wall with no combustible stuff between and this brick wall measures 65" wide and covers floor to ceiling and the stove is positioned about 14" away from it with 22" of brick on the floor and 25" in front of the doors. I got a lot to work on.
Thanks Coaly
– EasyRyder

 

[EasyRyder]

Sure does! (from here) I find WD-40, Kerosene, Diesel fuel or Mineral Spirits is the least aggressive. Lacquer thinner is the last resort that takes everything.

Hello,
It's difficult to tell from the pics but looks like the label was painted over? Have you tried paint thinner or brake clean and a soft cloth to see if the paint wipes off? Just don't use anything abrasive because if will become unreadable.

 

[EasyRyder]

Thanks Dave
You guys (Coaly and Dave) were bang on about a previous owner painting the ULC plate with stove paint, took your advice and cleaned ove the plate by scrapping the paint with a razor blade and some Goo Gone solution and bingo ther it was as the attached picture will testify. I am so happy now but wait till the stove installer sees this as the measurements are much greater than the previous installer had used. I will have to make some adjustments to the surroundings as per specs for the cumbustibles distances before the installer will consent to connect to the chimney.
Please check the attached picture and note that this is called Grandma Bear/Teddy Bear (Canadian manufacture – instead of Grandma Bear III USA ) right at the top. You were right about WH meaning Warnock Hershey, now Interteck. When I checked my stove at the back it does not have any heat sheild plate added to it. Presently I have a brick wall over the concrete wall with no combustible stuff between and this brick wall measures 65" wide and covers floor to ceiling and the stove is positioned about 14" away from it with 22" of brick on the floor and 25" in front of the doors. I got a lot to work on.
Thanks Dave
– EasyRyder

 

[coaly]

Are you saying you don't have any combustible wall behind stove?? All clearances are to combustible material only.

Your tags won't mention Series or Roman Numerals. The first "Grandma" in 1976 was updated with revisions by sending drawings to fabricators. 1977 was a revision adding optional shields when not used on a hearth. This was designated II when shields were added to the same stove. The I and II had angle iron corners that became legs with flat top doors. In 1979 the solid arched top doors or Cathedral Door was introduced as an option. 1980 was a total redesign and flat top doors were dropped for the cathedral doors until end of production. In 1980, the redesign of double door stoves became the series III, (with tags) and was made with bent corners like yours. Series III Glass (yours) was the first glass door available and is what defined your picture as a III. Notice the small glass opening is horizontal across top of opening. The later IV had larger glass with angled top - not horizontal. (Honey Bear and Honey Bear Insert has III style glass as well) When the double doors became III for 1980, the single doors became VI with bottom and rear shields. To my knowledge there was no V produced. I'm going by Fisher literature, and drawing revisions sent to fabricators.

Grandma doors were also used on the full size Insert developed late 1979. (no Bear name given) They were solid black, nickel or brass plated. Later III glass was available and later the IV glass. (Your stove was also available with those door options - yours in particular was advertised and sold as "Brass and Glass")
III and IV were the only glass styles. Below is a Model IV;



The rear shield extends above stove and curls forward. An optional blower fan mounts across bottom of shield to blow air up the back and forward across front.

Teddy did not have a series number. Goldilocks was the equivalent certified for mobile home installation.
Teddy Bear uses Grandma doors with single pedestal style base with 7 inch outlet. (Goldi was 6) The Canadian manual for Teddy is available in pdf in the manuals thread in the sticky section at top of the Fisher Forum Page. I think all Teddy Bears were triple shielded on rear, so clearance does not pertain to yours.

 

[coaly]

I should add, had the original customer of your stove bought the Teddy Bear instead, they would have received the Ganz Teddy Bear in my Avatar given away with them in Canada !
Now I need the Canadian Teddy to go with him. That road trip is going to require a passport and major explanation to the wife.

 

[EasyRyder]

I should add, had the original customer of your stove bought the Teddy Bear instead, they would have received the Ganz Teddy Bear in my Avatar given away with them in Canada !
Now I need the Canadian Teddy to go with him. That road trip is going to require a passport and major explanation to the wife.

View attachment 167411

 

[EasyRyder]

Thanks Coaly, as mentioned earlier I was able to clean up the ULC plate (Canadian) and learned from my stove chimney builder that my stove does not have any heat shield at all as can be evident of the lack of any curled heat shield above the top plate as in other similar models. After checking the now readable plate the builder indicated that it asks for 44" on the sides and front or combustible areas. I have a non combustible back brick wall but the sides and either sides of the brick wall need concrete board with spacers. My dealer has a used Napoleon with 3 burn chambers and triple heat shield on back and sides therefore can come as close to 18" from combustible areas and 4" from non combustibles back wall. So I am selling my stove on Kijiji for $350 Canadian as it has a flue of 8" opening and requires a 7" chimney which is more expensive than a standard chimney as they cannot reduce more than 1". I need to change the gasket around the glass of the Fisher and clean up the glass – any idea how to remove the doors and so it's easier to work with the glass on a horizontal flat surface?
Thanks Coaly, you are very helpful and most informative. I am hoping that i can sell this Fisher
EasyRyder

 

[coaly]

The doors lift right off when the hinge pins are lubricated properly. Hinge pins should remove by hand when greased periodically.
If they don't move, spray with penetrating oil of your choice and let soak.
If they don't drive out easily with punch;
Rotate with vice grips trying not to damage hinge pin head. Once they break loose by rotating, drive out with punch or smaller bolt.
Clean with wire wheel, wire brush, or fine sandpaper. Lubricate when installing with silver anti-seize.

That stove around here would sell for twice that easily.