Hi everyone!
I own an older European Jøtul F3 CB with an ash pan, and I've recently been doing some maintenance and cleaning before the heating season.
The stove has been working well overall. I mainly wanted to give it a thorough cleaning, including the flue pipes and the inside of the stove.
My stove has a top flue connection, with a vertical flue pipe running directly from the top of the stove up to the ceiling. Disconnecting this pipe is quite difficult, so I would really prefer to avoid removing it or taking off the stove's top plate.
During the cleaning process, I came across a few things that raised some questions. I would really appreciate advice from anyone who has experience with this particular model.
1. Cleaning the area above the baffle plate
Whenever I clean the chimney and flue pipes, quite a lot of soot and debris falls onto the top of the baffle plate. Over time, a considerable amount of dry, flaky soot had accumulated there. Unfortunately, accessing this area is extremely difficult with the baffle installed. I eventually decided to remove the entire baffle assembly, which was actually fairly straightforward, just four mounting bolts. However, removing it means disturbing the gaskets, which now need replacing.
- Is there an easier way to clean the area above the baffle without removing the baffle or disconnecting the vertical flue pipe?
- Has anyone successfully used a vacuum cleaner with a thin flexible hose or a 90-degree angled attachment to reach above the baffle through the front door? I'm trying to find a practical method for future maintenance without having to disassemble everything every time...
2. Rattling noise inside the removed baffle assembly
Now that I have the baffle assembly outside the stove, I've noticed something concerning. When I move or gently shake the baffle assembly, I can hear something loose rattling around inside it. It sounds like small pieces of hardened material, debris, or possibly old furnace cement. I've also noticed that several bolts holding the baffle assembly together are somewhat loose. As far as I understand, the assembly consists of a cast iron baffle plate and a steel secondary air distributor.
- Is it worth completely disassembling the baffle assembly to clean and inspect the inside?
- Is it difficult to reassemble it correctly and make it airtight again?
- Would I need to replace any internal gaskets or apply new furnace cement between the cast iron and steel components?
- Has anyone done this repair themselves? I'd appreciate any advice before I start removing more bolts.
3. Insulation behind the rear and side burn plates
After removing the baffle, I also removed both side burn plates and finally the rear burn plate. I found what appears to be the original Jøtul insulation blanket behind the rear plate. However, there is absolutely no insulation behind either of the two side burn plates. I've seen references in the Jøtul documentation suggesting that insulation should also be present behind the side plates.
- Should my European F3 CB definitely have insulation blankets behind both side burn plates?
- If so, should I install them now, even though the stove has been working fine without them for several years? Can I use a suitable high-temperature insulation blanket from another manufacturer instead of the original Jøtul part? If anyone knows the correct thickness and material specification, that would be very helpful.
4. Correct gasket between the rear wall and baffle assembly
I also need to replace the gasket where the rear of the baffle assembly connects to the stove's rear secondary air inlet. This is the location shown in my ATTACHED PHOTO. The old gasket has already been disturbed during disassembly, so I would prefer to replace it before reassembly. According to the European Jøtul parts documentation, the relevant gasket appears to be 8.7 mm in diameter, LD (Low Density). I've also seen recommendations on this forum for a 3/8-inch (approximately 9.5 mm) soft gasket.
- Which gasket size is correct for an older European Jøtul F3 CB – 8.7 mm or 9.5 mm?
- Should it be a soft, round, low-density gasket rope?
- Is it acceptable to use a few small dots of high-temperature gasket adhesive or furnace cement to hold the rope in position during reassembly, with the final seal provided by compression? I want to make sure this connection is properly sealed without accidentally blocking the secondary air passage.
5. Occasional smoke escaping from the rear during startup
There is something else I've been wondering about. Occasionally, when lighting the stove with the front door open, I have noticed some smoke escaping from the rear of the stove, around the rear cover/secondary air inlet area. This only seems to happen during startup, when the stove and chimney are still cold. I found a thread here from December 2021 describing almost exactly the same issue with a Jøtul F3 CB. In that case, closing the stove door after lighting the fire apparently solved the problem. I understand that weak chimney draft during a cold start could cause this.
However, I have another question:
- Could an improperly installed, damaged or leaking gasket between the rear wall and the baffle assembly also contribute to smoke escaping from the rear of the stove?
- Or is this more likely to be caused by weak or reversed chimney draft during startup with the door open?
I'd really like to understand how these two issues might be related.
6. Flat gaskets on top of the side burn plates
When I removed the two side burn plates, I noticed that there were flattened gasket ropes along their upper edges, where the baffle assembly rests. I've read discussions suggesting that some F3 CB stoves have these gaskets while others apparently do not.
- Should there be flat gaskets between the top edges of the side burn plates and the baffle assembly?
- Are these gaskets actually necessary, or are they optional depending on the version of the stove?
Since my stove already had them, would you recommend replacing them with new flat gasket tape, or leaving them out completely? If they should be replaced, I'd appreciate recommendations regarding the correct thickness and width.
7. Double black metal plate on the rear of the stove
On the outside rear wall of my F3 CB, there is a black metal component that looks like a double-layered sheet metal plate. It appears to be attached to the cast iron body with two bolts.
- What exactly is the purpose of this double-layered rear metal plate?
- Is it a heat shield, part of the secondary air system, or something else?
- Would there be any advantage to removing it, or should it always remain installed? I'm just curious about its function and whether it affects airflow or heat distribution.
8. Repairing a cracked cast iron bottom grate
Finally, I have one more question about the inner bottom plate/grate — the cast iron component that supports the burning logs above the ash pan. One of the grate's ribs has broken, but I still have the broken piece, and it fits perfectly back into its original position. Replacing the complete grate is quite expensive, and removing it from the stove is also extremely difficult (probably impossibile) because of the limited space.
I have noticed that the cast iron sections of the stove's outer body are joined using a very hard, cement-like material. This made me wonder whether something similar could be used to repair the broken grate.
- Has anyone successfully repaired a cracked or broken cast iron grate on a Jøtul F3 CB?
- Is there any specialized high-temperature furnace cement or refractory repair compound that could form a durable, load-bearing repair in this location?
- Or is cast iron welding or complete replacement really the only reliable solution?
I'm aware that this part is exposed directly to burning wood and hot embers, so ordinary adhesives would not be suitable. I'd be very interested in hearing about real-world experiences with this type of repair.
I know this is quite a long post, but since I've already disassembled most of the interior of my F3 CB, I would really like to understand everything properly and reassemble it correctly. My main priorities are restoring the correct gaskets and insulation, ensuring the secondary combustion system works properly, and finding an easier way to clean above the baffle in the future.
If anyone has experience rebuilding or servicing an older European Jøtul F3 CB, I'd really appreciate your advice, especially regarding the exact gasket specifications and baffle assembly.
I'll attach some photos to help illustrate the parts I'm referring to.
Thanks in advance for any help!
I own an older European Jøtul F3 CB with an ash pan, and I've recently been doing some maintenance and cleaning before the heating season.
The stove has been working well overall. I mainly wanted to give it a thorough cleaning, including the flue pipes and the inside of the stove.
My stove has a top flue connection, with a vertical flue pipe running directly from the top of the stove up to the ceiling. Disconnecting this pipe is quite difficult, so I would really prefer to avoid removing it or taking off the stove's top plate.
During the cleaning process, I came across a few things that raised some questions. I would really appreciate advice from anyone who has experience with this particular model.
1. Cleaning the area above the baffle plate
Whenever I clean the chimney and flue pipes, quite a lot of soot and debris falls onto the top of the baffle plate. Over time, a considerable amount of dry, flaky soot had accumulated there. Unfortunately, accessing this area is extremely difficult with the baffle installed. I eventually decided to remove the entire baffle assembly, which was actually fairly straightforward, just four mounting bolts. However, removing it means disturbing the gaskets, which now need replacing.
- Is there an easier way to clean the area above the baffle without removing the baffle or disconnecting the vertical flue pipe?
- Has anyone successfully used a vacuum cleaner with a thin flexible hose or a 90-degree angled attachment to reach above the baffle through the front door? I'm trying to find a practical method for future maintenance without having to disassemble everything every time...
2. Rattling noise inside the removed baffle assembly
Now that I have the baffle assembly outside the stove, I've noticed something concerning. When I move or gently shake the baffle assembly, I can hear something loose rattling around inside it. It sounds like small pieces of hardened material, debris, or possibly old furnace cement. I've also noticed that several bolts holding the baffle assembly together are somewhat loose. As far as I understand, the assembly consists of a cast iron baffle plate and a steel secondary air distributor.
- Is it worth completely disassembling the baffle assembly to clean and inspect the inside?
- Is it difficult to reassemble it correctly and make it airtight again?
- Would I need to replace any internal gaskets or apply new furnace cement between the cast iron and steel components?
- Has anyone done this repair themselves? I'd appreciate any advice before I start removing more bolts.
3. Insulation behind the rear and side burn plates
After removing the baffle, I also removed both side burn plates and finally the rear burn plate. I found what appears to be the original Jøtul insulation blanket behind the rear plate. However, there is absolutely no insulation behind either of the two side burn plates. I've seen references in the Jøtul documentation suggesting that insulation should also be present behind the side plates.
- Should my European F3 CB definitely have insulation blankets behind both side burn plates?
- If so, should I install them now, even though the stove has been working fine without them for several years? Can I use a suitable high-temperature insulation blanket from another manufacturer instead of the original Jøtul part? If anyone knows the correct thickness and material specification, that would be very helpful.
4. Correct gasket between the rear wall and baffle assembly
I also need to replace the gasket where the rear of the baffle assembly connects to the stove's rear secondary air inlet. This is the location shown in my ATTACHED PHOTO. The old gasket has already been disturbed during disassembly, so I would prefer to replace it before reassembly. According to the European Jøtul parts documentation, the relevant gasket appears to be 8.7 mm in diameter, LD (Low Density). I've also seen recommendations on this forum for a 3/8-inch (approximately 9.5 mm) soft gasket.
- Which gasket size is correct for an older European Jøtul F3 CB – 8.7 mm or 9.5 mm?
- Should it be a soft, round, low-density gasket rope?
- Is it acceptable to use a few small dots of high-temperature gasket adhesive or furnace cement to hold the rope in position during reassembly, with the final seal provided by compression? I want to make sure this connection is properly sealed without accidentally blocking the secondary air passage.
5. Occasional smoke escaping from the rear during startup
There is something else I've been wondering about. Occasionally, when lighting the stove with the front door open, I have noticed some smoke escaping from the rear of the stove, around the rear cover/secondary air inlet area. This only seems to happen during startup, when the stove and chimney are still cold. I found a thread here from December 2021 describing almost exactly the same issue with a Jøtul F3 CB. In that case, closing the stove door after lighting the fire apparently solved the problem. I understand that weak chimney draft during a cold start could cause this.
However, I have another question:
- Could an improperly installed, damaged or leaking gasket between the rear wall and the baffle assembly also contribute to smoke escaping from the rear of the stove?
- Or is this more likely to be caused by weak or reversed chimney draft during startup with the door open?
I'd really like to understand how these two issues might be related.
6. Flat gaskets on top of the side burn plates
When I removed the two side burn plates, I noticed that there were flattened gasket ropes along their upper edges, where the baffle assembly rests. I've read discussions suggesting that some F3 CB stoves have these gaskets while others apparently do not.
- Should there be flat gaskets between the top edges of the side burn plates and the baffle assembly?
- Are these gaskets actually necessary, or are they optional depending on the version of the stove?
Since my stove already had them, would you recommend replacing them with new flat gasket tape, or leaving them out completely? If they should be replaced, I'd appreciate recommendations regarding the correct thickness and width.
7. Double black metal plate on the rear of the stove
On the outside rear wall of my F3 CB, there is a black metal component that looks like a double-layered sheet metal plate. It appears to be attached to the cast iron body with two bolts.
- What exactly is the purpose of this double-layered rear metal plate?
- Is it a heat shield, part of the secondary air system, or something else?
- Would there be any advantage to removing it, or should it always remain installed? I'm just curious about its function and whether it affects airflow or heat distribution.
8. Repairing a cracked cast iron bottom grate
Finally, I have one more question about the inner bottom plate/grate — the cast iron component that supports the burning logs above the ash pan. One of the grate's ribs has broken, but I still have the broken piece, and it fits perfectly back into its original position. Replacing the complete grate is quite expensive, and removing it from the stove is also extremely difficult (probably impossibile) because of the limited space.
I have noticed that the cast iron sections of the stove's outer body are joined using a very hard, cement-like material. This made me wonder whether something similar could be used to repair the broken grate.
- Has anyone successfully repaired a cracked or broken cast iron grate on a Jøtul F3 CB?
- Is there any specialized high-temperature furnace cement or refractory repair compound that could form a durable, load-bearing repair in this location?
- Or is cast iron welding or complete replacement really the only reliable solution?
I'm aware that this part is exposed directly to burning wood and hot embers, so ordinary adhesives would not be suitable. I'd be very interested in hearing about real-world experiences with this type of repair.
I know this is quite a long post, but since I've already disassembled most of the interior of my F3 CB, I would really like to understand everything properly and reassemble it correctly. My main priorities are restoring the correct gaskets and insulation, ensuring the secondary combustion system works properly, and finding an easier way to clean above the baffle in the future.
If anyone has experience rebuilding or servicing an older European Jøtul F3 CB, I'd really appreciate your advice, especially regarding the exact gasket specifications and baffle assembly.
I'll attach some photos to help illustrate the parts I'm referring to.
Thanks in advance for any help!
![[Hearth.com] Jøtul F3 CB - Baffle cleaning, gaskets, insulation, secondary air system and cracked grate (Several questions)](/talk/data/attachments/349/349651-b31811c441ec3d36dcd481692d6bf1de.jpg?hash=uSwKrvpglO)
