Harman 52i vacuum switch.

[Mattmotors]

Hi All, I have a 2 blink code on my Harman 52i which directs me to the vacuum switch. Let me tell you what I did first. I took some body parts off to give them a paint job. Primarily the hopper lid and cover. The gasket between the hopper and the cover looked good so I left it alone. The gasket between the hopper door (lid) and cover looked pretty ratty so I replaced it. That was my first mistake. The gasket would compress but still stiff enough where it would keep the front of the lid open. It was an aftermarket gasket for part number 1-00-375501. I didn't want to pay $157.00 for 20 feet of OEM gasket. I tested the stove while applying pressure to the lid and cover and still had a number 2 code. I tested the vacuum switch. It tests good I cleaned out the brass fitting where the hose connect and also the the trap door where the auger is. still flashing #2. Any advise on a good gasket replacement Or where I maybe leaking air would be appreciated. Thanks , Matt.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Hi All, I have a 2 blink code on my Harman 52i which directs me to the vacuum switch. Let me tell you what I did first. I took some body parts off to give them a paint job. Primarily the hopper lid and cover. The gasket between the hopper and the cover looked good so I left it alone. The gasket between the hopper door (lid) and cover looked pretty ratty so I replaced it. That was my first mistake. The gasket would compress but still stiff enough where it would keep the front of the lid open. It was an aftermarket gasket for part number 1-00-375501. I didn't want to pay $157.00 for 20 feet of OEM gasket. I tested the stove while applying pressure to the lid and cover and still had a number 2 code. I tested the vacuum switch. It tests good I cleaned out the brass fitting where the hose connect and also the the trap door where the auger is. still flashing #2. Any advise on a good gasket replacement Or where I maybe leaking air would be appreciated. Thanks , Matt.

If you are sure you are moving are through the stove, and you suspect where the leak(s) are, you could try the smoke leak test. That is shown on utube ect. Basically you make something that is smoky, and then run the stove and hold the smoke next to the area's to test.

 

[Ocelot]

I have a P43, so I'm not sure if the 52I is similar. However, if it is, I would check the door gasket with the dollar bill test, and also check that the fines cover is fully seated with the tab on top and the wingnut. Last season after cleaning out the fines on mine, I reinstalled the cover but didn't have it fully seated over the tab on top. It's hard to see when installing the cover on mine The stove ran but ran bad and sooted up the glass within a half hour because that cover caused a bad air leak. Took me a bit to find the problem.

 

[Mattmotors]

Well, I found my problem. When I gave the stove a good cleaning , I put the cover to the combustion motor on incorrectly. The lever that holds the cover on was in place but the bottom was kicked out. It looked like it was on correctly but not. Felt it move when I gave it a tug. Took it off then put it on properly. No more 2 blink code. Along with the door for the fines , Check the combustion motor cover. Put that in your mental notebook. Thanks everybody!

 

[Whitenuckler]

Well, I found my problem. When I gave the stove a good cleaning , I put the cover to the combustion motor on incorrectly. The lever that holds the cover on was in place but the bottom was kicked out. It looked like it was on correctly but not. Felt it move when I gave it a tug. Took it off then put it on properly. No more 2 blink code. Along with the door for the fines , Check the combustion motor cover. Put that in your mental notebook. Thanks everybody!

Actually I thought they has set it up that you couldn't latch it unless it was seated. Well that's great good work.

 

[Mattmotors]

New Vacuum switch problem. Theory has it that they rarely go bad, However, I can open my hopper lid or open the front and not get a 2 flash code. I guess if it is stuck, It's stuck in a good position. The heat is great but I'm sick and tired of laying on the floor to give it a good cleaning. sick of pulling it out, disassembling . I guess I'm getting too old. I guess a gas stove is looking pretty good. Any recomendations? My 52i is the big one. Thanks , Matt.

 

[Whitenuckler]

New Vacuum switch problem. Theory has it that they rarely go bad, However, I can open my hopper lid or open the front and not get a 2 flash code. I guess if it is stuck, It's stuck in a good position. The heat is great but I'm sick and tired of laying on the floor to give it a good cleaning. sick of pulling it out, disassembling . I guess I'm getting too old. I guess a gas stove is looking pretty good. Any recomendations? My 52i is the big one. Thanks , Matt.

That's an interesting observation. I must look at my lights the next time I open the hopper door and main door. I find my P43 too low also. I'd like to raise it up 12 inches. If you have natural gas to your home there are many options.

 

[Mattmotors]

Ok , Still having problems with the vacuum switch. Here is my situation:
I can start and run the stove. The vacuum switch controls power to the igniter and the feed motor. If I loose my negative pressure, the switch opens and the feed motor and igniter power is turned off. This can be tested by opening the door or hopper lid. You will also get an error code. Well, I can open the door or the hopper lid and it keeps running. I went ahead and replaced the vacuum switch,. Same result.
Things I did:
I pulled out the stove and gave it a real good cleaning.
All lids and covers are secure.
I replaced the igniter due to a longer time to ignite.( not OEM) It still takes a long time to ignite, usually by the second feed cycle.
I replaced the vacuum switch with an OEM switch. Both switches test good.
The hose is clear and the brass fitting is clear. I can blow and suck thru them with no resistance.
The stove is about 8 years old.

I'm totally baffled why I don't loose the feed motor and igniter when I open the door. Did I wire the switch wrong? There are only 2 connections. It's either on or off. What would cause vacuum to be held while opening the door operating the vacuum switch keeping it in on condition. Will swapping my connections on the switch do anything?
Please share your thoughts because I 'm at a loss. Thanks , Matt.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Ok , Still having problems with the vacuum switch. Here is my situation:
I can start and run the stove. The vacuum switch controls power to the igniter and the feed motor. If I loose my negative pressure, the switch opens and the feed motor and igniter power is turned off. This can be tested by opening the door or hopper lid. You will also get an error code. Well, I can open the door or the hopper lid and it keeps running. I went ahead and replaced the vacuum switch,. Same result.
Things I did:
I pulled out the stove and gave it a real good cleaning.
All lids and covers are secure.
I replaced the igniter due to a longer time to ignite.( not OEM) It still takes a long time to ignite, usually by the second feed cycle.
I replaced the vacuum switch with an OEM switch. Both switches test good.
The hose is clear and the brass fitting is clear. I can blow and suck thru them with no resistance.
The stove is about 8 years old.

I'm totally baffled why I don't loose the feed motor and igniter when I open the door. Did I wire the switch wrong? There are only 2 connections. It's either on or off. What would cause vacuum to be held while opening the door operating the vacuum switch keeping it in on condition. Will swapping my connections on the switch do anything?
Please share your thoughts because I 'm at a loss. Thanks , Matt.

I will do some tests on my P43. I just shut it off for a quick clean and will check when I start it up. I will open my doorand the hopper lid while it is trying to start up, and watch the lights and see if I hear the auger still turning. There are only two wires to the Vacuum switch. It is normally open, and it makes no difference which wire goes were. If there are two wires on a terminal, then those two wires must stay together. Once the switch picks up, it is not going to drop out as easy.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Ok , Still having problems with the vacuum switch. Here is my situation:
I can start and run the stove. The vacuum switch controls power to the igniter and the feed motor. If I loose my negative pressure, the switch opens and the feed motor and igniter power is turned off. This can be tested by opening the door or hopper lid. You will also get an error code. Well, I can open the door or the hopper lid and it keeps running. I went ahead and replaced the vacuum switch,. Same result.
Things I did:
I pulled out the stove and gave it a real good cleaning.
All lids and covers are secure.
I replaced the igniter due to a longer time to ignite.( not OEM) It still takes a long time to ignite, usually by the second feed cycle.
I replaced the vacuum switch with an OEM switch. Both switches test good.
The hose is clear and the brass fitting is clear. I can blow and suck thru them with no resistance.
The stove is about 8 years old.

I'm totally baffled why I don't loose the feed motor and igniter when I open the door. Did I wire the switch wrong? There are only 2 connections. It's either on or off. What would cause vacuum to be held while opening the door operating the vacuum switch keeping it in on condition. Will swapping my connections on the switch do anything?
Please share your thoughts because I 'm at a loss. Thanks , Matt.

I didn't get any flashing lights from opening the hopper door, or opening the main door. For sure the auger would not turn with the door open as I watched. Now perhaps if you wait, the stove will give a fault after a time delay. Some people are manually lighting theirs with the door open so the controls have to allow this. You could disconnect your wires, jumper them together, and then put an ohmeter on your contacts so you can watch what's going on. You go also check your vacuum ie inches of water with a bent hose filledwith water or the proper Dwyer 0-1 Vac guage.

 

[Whitenuckler]

Ok , Still having problems with the vacuum switch. Here is my situation:
I can start and run the stove. The vacuum switch controls power to the igniter and the feed motor. If I loose my negative pressure, the switch opens and the feed motor and igniter power is turned off. This can be tested by opening the door or hopper lid. You will also get an error code. Well, I can open the door or the hopper lid and it keeps running. I went ahead and replaced the vacuum switch,. Same result.
Things I did:
I pulled out the stove and gave it a real good cleaning.
All lids and covers are secure.
I replaced the igniter due to a longer time to ignite.( not OEM) It still takes a long time to ignite, usually by the second feed cycle.
I replaced the vacuum switch with an OEM switch. Both switches test good.
The hose is clear and the brass fitting is clear. I can blow and suck thru them with no resistance.
The stove is about 8 years old.

I'm totally baffled why I don't loose the feed motor and igniter when I open the door. Did I wire the switch wrong? There are only 2 connections. It's either on or off. What would cause vacuum to be held while opening the door operating the vacuum switch keeping it in on condition. Will swapping my connections on the switch do anything?
Please share your thoughts because I 'm at a loss. Thanks , Matt.

Is this the manual?

https://downloads.hearthnhome.com/installManuals/Accentra52i-TC_Consumer.pdf

I thought the schematic might be like mine, but this one has a display card and there is no schematic in the manual. I'm confused. Do you have just a control card with dials that will flash codes?