Harman accentra door seal

[Zeus]

Hey guys getting the stove cleaned for summer, I noticed the door seal is looking a little flat burnt up. I have never changed the door seal seal before so any cool advice will be appreciated,thanks.

 

[DAKSY]

Here's how I'd do it.
1 - Visit your hearth shop & buy a tube of gasket cement & the correct sized gasket for the door. in their manuals, Harman does not list this item by length and diameter, but you should need 7 feet of 3/8" diameter fiberglass rope. You may find the correct size cheaper online.
2 - Remove the door & lay it on a flat surface strong enough to support it & protect the door by placing it on cardboard or a towel (or the like).
3 - Remove the gasket from the door channel. It should just pull out.
4 - Using a rounded scraping tool, remove all the gasket cement from the channel. I have a bunch of old flat head screw drivers (in different sizes) that I rounded off for this purpose using my bench grinder. For stubborn areas, don't be afraid to chip the cement out by hitting the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer.
5 - Once the channel is clean, wipe any excess dust out with a wet rag. Dust will compromise the adhesion of the new casket cement.
6 - Lay a small bead of cement in the bottom of the channel & using your pinky or a small piece of gasket, smear it to cover the entire channel groove
(sides & bottom).
7 - Lay another small bead of cement in the channel.
8 - Using a sharp pair of scissors, carefully cut one end of the gasket material square.
9 - Starting in a lower corner of the door, lay the gasket along the channel & press it into the cement bead. **DO NOT STRETCH THE GASKET.**
Work your way around the door channel until you get to the origin. Carefully trim the end to length so that it butts TIGHTLY up against the origin when the end is pressed into the cement bead.
10 - Work your way back around the gasket & make sure it's pressed nicely into the channel.
11 - Use a wet towel to remove any cement that has gotten squeezed out of the channel before it sets up.
12 - Carefully replace the door onto the stove, close it & latch it. Leave it for a day if you can, so that the cement dries.
Others may do it differently, but this method has worked well for me.

 

[Tonyray]

Here's how I'd do it.
1 - Visit your hearth shop & buy a tube of gasket cement & the correct sized gasket for the door. in their manuals, Harman does not list this item by length and diameter, but you should need 7 feet of 3/8" diameter fiberglass rope. You may find the correct size cheaper online.
2 - Remove the door & lay it on a flat surface strong enough to support it & protect the door by placing it on cardboard or a towel (or the like).
3 - Remove the gasket from the door channel. It should just pull out.
4 - Using a rounded scraping tool, remove all the gasket cement from the channel. I have a bunch of old flat head screw drivers (in different sizes) that I rounded off for this purpose using my bench grinder. For stubborn areas, don't be afraid to chip the cement out by hitting the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer.
5 - Once the channel is clean, wipe any excess dust out with a wet rag. Dust will compromise the adhesion of the new casket cement.
6 - Lay a small bead of cement in the bottom of the channel & using your pinky or a small piece of gasket, smear it to cover the entire channel groove
(sides & bottom).
7 - Lay another small bead of cement in the channel.
8 - Using a sharp pair of scissors, carefully cut one end of the gasket material square.
9 - Starting in a lower corner of the door, lay the gasket along the channel & press it into the cement bead. **DO NOT STRETCH THE GASKET.**
Work your way around the door channel until you get to the origin. Carefully trim the end to length so that it butts TIGHTLY up against the origin when the end is pressed into the cement bead.
10 - Work your way back around the gasket & make sure it's pressed nicely into the channel.
11 - Use a wet towel to remove any cement that has gotten squeezed out of the channel before it sets up.
12 - Carefully replace the door onto the stove, close it & latch it. Leave it for a day if you can, so that the cement dries.
Others may do it differently, but this method has worked well for me.

good instructions..

I would add to 'double check' that there is no cement residue on the inner door faceing so as not to have to use a 'crowbar' to open it
in the fall..

 

[Sootmaster1990]

Also please DO NOT attempt to remove the door you cannot without taking the top of the stove off

 

[Zeus]

Here's how I'd do it.
1 - Visit your hearth shop & buy a tube of gasket cement & the correct sized gasket for the door. in their manuals, Harman does not list this item by length and diameter, but you should need 7 feet of 3/8" diameter fiberglass rope. You may find the correct size cheaper online.
2 - Remove the door & lay it on a flat surface strong enough to support it & protect the door by placing it on cardboard or a towel (or the like).
3 - Remove the gasket from the door channel. It should just pull out.
4 - Using a rounded scraping tool, remove all the gasket cement from the channel. I have a bunch of old flat head screw drivers (in different sizes) that I rounded off for this purpose using my bench grinder. For stubborn areas, don't be afraid to chip the cement out by hitting the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer.
5 - Once the channel is clean, wipe any excess dust out with a wet rag. Dust will compromise the adhesion of the new casket cement.
6 - Lay a small bead of cement in the bottom of the channel & using your pinky or a small piece of gasket, smear it to cover the entire channel groove
(sides & bottom).
7 - Lay another small bead of cement in the channel.
8 - Using a sharp pair of scissors, carefully cut one end of the gasket material square.
9 - Starting in a lower corner of the door, lay the gasket along the channel & press it into the cement bead. **DO NOT STRETCH THE GASKET.**
Work your way around the door channel until you get to the origin. Carefully trim the end to length so that it butts TIGHTLY up against the origin when the end is pressed into the cement bead.
10 - Work your way back around the gasket & make sure it's pressed nicely into the channel.
11 - Use a wet towel to remove any cement that has gotten squeezed out of the channel before it sets up.
12 - Carefully replace the door onto the stove, close it & latch it. Leave it for a day if you can, so that the cement dries.
Others may do it differently, but this method has worked well for me.

Thanks Daksy that's very precise instructions just what I was looking for much appreciated and thanks for the heads up Tony will make sure my glue is cleaned up. I will let you guys know when it's done thanks

 

[jackhammer]

I'll definitely save this so when the time comes..... Thanks for taking the time to write it out.

 

[Zeus]

Update gotter done I know it took me a while but summer projects get in the way,but she's all done and clean for the season. Thanks daksy for the help it went pretty smooth using your directions. Ps you might get yelled at if you use the wire wheel in the house lol.

 

[Zeus]

tony I'm watching out for the possible door weld thanks