Harman Accentra powers on, but won't run after replacing fuse.

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PolishBrewer

New Member
Jan 29, 2014
2
Maryland
Hello everyone,

Our circa 2008 (bought by previous home owner) Accentra insert worked fine until last week when I discovered a blown fuse was the cause of why it randomly (and instantly) shut off. I ordered the specific fuse online (for those who don't know, the replacement is a 120V/250V fast acting 6A glass fuse that measures 6mm x 30mm; the more common 20mm size will be too short). While waiting for the fuses to arrive, I took the time to thoroughly clean out the insert- including taking out the medallion and side plates and cleaning out the ports/vents in each corner. I discovered the left plate was rusted shut and found, once I pried it off, wet gunk and a lot of rust packed around the port/vent. It looks like this side of the insert was not properly venting for a long time.

Once I put everything back together and replaced the blown fuse, I turned it on and discovered a problem. The power light will come on and when I turn up the temperature, the activity light and combustion motor light turn on. However, the actual combustion blower/fan does not power on. The insert remains silent and the feed motor never powers on (nor does the light turn on). Oddly enough, when I put the feed rate(broken image removed) controller in the test mode to force the feed auger to turn on, it does not actually turn on, but the combustion blower/fan does finally turn on. FYI, I was not using a surge protector and the norm is for me to turn off the insert abruptly by disconnecting it from the outlet via a remote control. I know, probably bad practice.

My hypothesis are the following:

1) A surge caused the fuse to blow, but somehow not fast enough causing damage to the controller PCB. Visually, I see no signs of shorting or overheating.
2) In order for me to get to the fuse, I had to disconnect the controller board from its various connections and wiring bundle. I noticed the two blue wires with spade connectors had very little slack. The wire bundle was also tight. Perhaps me tugging at it caused a wiring issue?
3) Maybe the severely blocked and strangely wet port/vent caused a sensor to go bad or a motor to burn out?

I would love to get this running sooner than later, but I'm not sure how to troubleshoot it. What could have caused this issue? If anyone has an ideas what I should do or check out next, please share. Thank you!


- Łukasz
 
The storms have been raising cane with power. Our new UPS gives a count of events. Probably the best money spent along with leaf blower to keeping the stoves happy. Your event probably cooked the board and you have just discovered other issues.:( About the only thing that IMO should be controlled with a remote are solid element items like lightbulbs and my cars block heater. Ugly power surge arc etc.
 
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I think bio is right.But before I installed new/repaired board I would try to run all 3 motors straight from outlet,to prevent a repeat in case it wasn't a surge.Bruners repairs boards,not far from you and may have an exchange.
 
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I think bio is right.But before I installed new/repaired board I would try to run all 3 motors straight from outlet,to prevent a repeat in case it wasn't a surge.Bruners repairs boards,not far from you and may have an exchange.

Thank you both for the quick responses. Bob, can you explain how I would run all 3 motors straight from the outlet? Do you mean remove the wiring bundle from the controller board and manually power up each motor with a patch cable going straight to line voltage? Also, who is Bruners? Do you have contact info?
 
Yep,make a patch cord out of an old extension cord,each motor unhooked before you test it. bruners bits and pieces,good web site,good on phone calls,north of you in pennsy.
 
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