Harman Advance Auger Motor Failure

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Got the new motor in the mail.

The old motor had this receiver where my finger is pointing to. The stove has a. Extra wire that connects to it.

The new motor doesn't have this part.

Should the stove work still if I hook it up?

20230130_171211.jpg
 
Got the new motor in the mail.

The old motor had this receiver where my finger is pointing to. The stove has a. Extra wire that connects to it.

The new motor doesn't have this part.

Should the stove work still if I hook it up?

View attachment 308912
Ok. So I hooked up this new one and it works when I put the stove into Test mode. Even without putting the third wire on. But when I put it into either room temp or stove temp it does not work.

The light for Feed Motor does not light under these modes. Only under test.
 
is your stove on if not if your stove is off you must put the switch on automatic and in room temperature the auger will work to send pellets into the burn pot and the heating element will light the pellets
In stove temperature you put pellets yourself and you light them and when the ESP sensor will detect enough heat the auger will start to work
 
is your stove on if not if your stove is off you must put the switch on automatic and in room temperature the auger will work to send pellets into the burn pot and the heating element will light the pellets
In stove temperature you put pellets yourself and you light them and when the ESP sensor will detect enough heat the auger will start to work
Omg. I'm so dumb. I usually always have it on auto and between dealing with this stove and a tree that fell into my yard from my neighbor, I guess I just over looked this small detail.

Just flipped it and it came right on!..

Thanks!
 
👍
 
So the stove has been working great as it should be.

This new motor is loud, and continuous. Kind of like a whiney hum, but the intervals between are short 30 seconds between each revolution.

Oh well can't complain since it's working and the house is warm.
 
The 3rd wire is a redundant ground, you can swap the tab over. Remember, chain does not have to be super tight. And doesn't hurt to lube chain. Glad your heat is back.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shank
The 3rd wire is a redundant ground, you can swap the tab over. Remember, chain does not have to be super tight. And doesn't hurt to lube chain. Glad your heat is back.

My chain had a fair amount of wear on the inside toward the sprockets. I took my chain off, soaked in 3 in 1 oil, wiped off, then reinstalled with a little bit of slack and it has been running pretty well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mt Bob
The only thing I have seen with lubing the chain is it will gum up when the dust accumulates. If you start lubing the chain, incorporate pulling the chain yearly to solvent clean it then re oil. I have seen old Advance and Accentras that have never had chain lube applied and run fine. My parents have a Accentra FS from about 2008 and I have never lubed the chain and it purrs like a kitten. It is set in constant burn and runs 24/7 from November to April. Shut down when ash pan fills and clean then let it rip.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Shank
Harman Advance 2005 build date: chain drive
I'm about to replace the auger motor, auger and differential switch. Stove has been down for a week while waiting for new parts to come in. I noticed while shopping for the new auger motor that some are clockwise, and some counter clockwise. I ordered the counter clockwise. I ordered the counter clockwise. Before I start replacing,,,,did I order the right auger motor? and would it make a difference if I didn't?
 
Harman Advance 2005 build date: chain drive
I'm about to replace the auger motor, auger and differential switch. Stove has been down for a week while waiting for new parts to come in. I noticed while shopping for the new auger motor that some are clockwise, and some counter clockwise. I ordered the counter clockwise. I ordered the counter clockwise. Before I start replacing,,,,did I order the right auger motor? and would it make a difference if I didn't?
Yes direction would matter. When looking at the shaft see what direction it spins. According to another poster in this thread the chain drives were CCW so you should be good, but I don't know that to be true.
 
Yes, as Shank said chain drives are CCW. 4 RPM.

3-20-08752​

Yes direction would matter. When looking at the shaft see what direction it spins. According to another poster in this thread the chain drives were CCW so you should be good, but I don't know that to be true.
 
Just a few things, as it is already "down", remove auger, if if you can, if hopper is empty, or at least spin it by hand, and make sure it spins easy and free. You will probably not be able to spin it if pellets are in it. Also, check end of auger for carbon build up, and clean. Plus, never hurts to pull the slide plate, check the rocker arm bushings, and clean and lube slide plate, file off any sharp edges. Unless weather is bad, then slap it together to use, and do these things later.
 
Just a few things, as it is already "down", remove auger, if if you can, if hopper is empty, or at least spin it by hand, and make sure it spins easy and free. You will probably not be able to spin it if pellets are in it. Also, check end of auger for carbon build up, and clean. Plus, never hurts to pull the slide plate, check the rocker arm bushings, and clean and lube slide plate, file off any sharp edges. Unless weather is bad, then slap it together to use, and do these things later.
Got the new auger motor in finally. Had to get the sprocket on the old one off but the allen screw holding it on the old auger wouldn't come off. soaked it with wd-40 for an hour while I had lunch. Got it off and put sprocket on new motor. I was going to put the new auger in but will wait till tomorrow. I have the stove turned around and pulled out from the wall. Took off outside venting. Can I test it to see if the chain is moving without it vented? No pellets in stove, just want to see if it'll turn the auger chain. If it doesn't move, I'll replace the differential switch tomorrow with the auger. I suspected the differential switch was the original problem because , of spotty feeding and shutting down within a half hour , but I think they both kind of bit the dust within a week of each other. Can't complain ,they are the original parts left to be replaced. Distribution fan was changed 4 years ago and combustion motor 3 years ago and this will be the 3rd auger replacement. When the stove was shutting down two weeks ago, I gave it a good cleaning,,,including the rubber hoses , one that feeds air to the burn pot (stove was modified by the dealer to prevent smoke in the hopper with drilled out additional holes on the floor of the burn pot) and the one that attaches to the differential switch. It ran fine for about 12 hours and started shutting down again. When I'd tap the differential switch it would work for maybe 15 minutes, then stop feeding. Eventually no amount of tapping made it run. My old auger has a fan on it, this one doesn't. I'm guessing they don't need that plastic fan anymore. I also noticed that I could turn the shaft on the auger motor by hand when everything died, I don't think they are supposed to turn by hand. By the way, if anyone has suggestions , please keep in mind I'm a woman and don't really know all the technical terms, but know how to fix this stove,,,,just takes me a lot longer than you guys can do it. If after all this work it still doesn't run, where else would I look? I've replaced the door gasket and have the new gasket for the ash pan, not yet changed.
Thank you for any comments or advice.
Deb
 
Well, sounds like you have done well, so far. New motor not having the little fan is inconsequential, not all replacement parts are the same. Sounds like your pressure switch is bad, OR the wires that plug on to it are loose, be sure to check them when replacing the switch. Ya, you should not be able to turn the auger motor shaft by hand, perhaps a stong person with fantastic finger strength could. SO, be sure, as you have said, no pellets, that you can spin the auger by hand. That would be the other end of the chain, the other sprocket. If there are any pellets at all in the auger, you may not be able to perform this test. It is good your unit has been upgraded with the bypass hose. Also, when replacing the pressure switch, remember to blow down through the little hose, it runs down to the fire box, to make sure it is open. Some even just use a can of pray cleaner or such to do this, as most have the little tube on them.
 
Yes, the auger spins freely. Did that when I took the chain off. Blew into both hoses and ran a pipe cleaner through them too.
Here's my own little tip for cleaning the holes in the burn pot. I have watch maker tools and among them are round files, different sizes. They clean the holes perfectly and anything built up on the sides of the holes can be easily filed off just by spinning the tool gently. You can get them cheap on ebay. search for watchmaker files on ebay.



s-l500.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mt Bob