Harman Advance Auger Motor Failure

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jdicicco7

New Member
Dec 12, 2022
29
USA
Hello all,

New here and looking for some advice.

I have an old Harman Advance that came with a house I bought in 2019. The stove works great when it works, but every winter something new needs to be replaced. I've had the auger motor replaced, the exhaust fans replaced. I have replaced just about everything except for the chain and sprockets.

Recently, the chain has been falling off the sprockets. The teeth are warn as it appears to be the original. When it stops feeding I take the back panel off and put the chain back on. Easy enough.

Now, it seems that the motor has failed. It turns on and makes sound but does not turn. I replaced the motor within the last year or two, could it have failed already?

I attached a short video for reference.


My stove guys quoted me about $600 for new chain and sprocket replacement (w/ labor) the motor would probably be an additional $200+ w/ labor.

I've put in over $2000 in 3 years to keep this stove working and I'm at the point to sell it for parts on Craigslist.

Should I get a new stove or keep fixing this thing?

Thank you in advance for any help!
 

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  • 20221211_180712.mp4
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I don't believe you're ready for a new stove. The nylon bushing is adjustable to take the slack out of the chain. If it's worn you can rotate it to a fresh spot. It's also important that the sprockets be aligned so the chain travels in a straight line between them. That may be the cause for the chain falling off. Loosen the bolt holding it on the shaft and slide the sprocket in or out to align it.

I would test the auger motor using a test cord plugged into a wall outlet to confirm if the motor is indeed dead.
 
I don't believe you're ready for a new stove. The nylon bushing is adjustable to take the slack out of the chain. If it's worn you can rotate it to a fresh spot. It's also important that the sprockets be aligned so the chain travels in a straight line between them. That may be the cause for the chain falling off. Loosen the bolt holding it on the shaft and slide the sprocket in or out to align it.

I would test the auger motor using a test cord plugged into a wall outlet to confirm if the motor is indeed dead.
Thanks for the response!

I ended up fixing it when i got home.

I took the auger motor gear box and chain off. Tightened the gear box. The box itself was loose, gears inside were not engaging. Put it back together and fired right up.

Thanks Again!
 
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The teeth on the gears Do look worn..
Here:
 
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I don't believe you're ready for a new stove. The nylon bushing is adjustable to take the slack out of the chain. If it's worn you can rotate it to a fresh spot. It's also important that the sprockets be aligned so the chain travels in a straight line between them. That may be the cause for the chain falling off. Loosen the bolt holding it on the shaft and slide the sprocket in or out to align it.

I would test the auger motor using a test cord plugged into a wall outlet to confirm if the motor is indeed dead.
Well after some time, the bracket the holds the motor and sprocket together is making a bang. I'm not sure how to explain this but when the sprocket the engaged the hopper, looks like it pulls on the sprocket and motor, so when it releases it snaps back.

Would it be from it being to tight? I found a new sprocket for about $80 I can replace them and not have it so tight?
 
I had a banging noise on my stove when the chain would ride up onto the top of the sprocket teeth and then drop back down. It's caused by the sprockets not allowing the chain to travel in a straight line. You may need to watch the auger chain while it's running to see what it's doing. Adjust the sprocket on the shaft by moving in or out to align the chain.
 
I had a banging noise on my stove when the chain would ride up onto the top of the sprocket teeth and then drop back down. It's caused by the sprockets not allowing the chain to travel in a straight line. You may need to watch the auger chain while it's running to see what it's doing. Adjust the sprocket on the shaft by moving in or out to align the chain.
Above or use a straight edge of some type, put it flat on the auger sprocket, align the motor sprocket....
 
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Well, I changed out both sprockets and chain last night and it ran very well until this morning.

Hasn't been feeding and the stove went out. Took off the chain and sprockets to see if the auger pin is rotating, which it is. Now it seems as the back sprocket pin that hits the lever to feed the pellets is seized.

Any thoughts?
 

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  • 20221230_100621.mp4
    12.2 MB
Not sure you understand what you are looking at. That bolt will wobble around with nut and sprocted removed. It is attached to the auger by the set screw, and the whole mass is turned by the sprocket.
 
The auger shaft was turning freely last night. It's seized now. I've taken the retainer off and have the shaft exposed.

20221230_110142.jpg
 
Generally, you cannot turn the auger by hand, if full of pellets. That little motor with the gear reduction is quite powerful. But, if you are sure the auger is what the problem is, empty hopper, pull auger. Would not be the first time a screw or bolt/other metal, has come from a bag of pellets, and jammed them. Also, the bearings do go bad, but rare.
 
Generally, you cannot turn the auger by hand, if full of pellets. That little motor with the gear reduction is quite powerful. But, if you are sure the auger is what the problem is, empty hopper, pull auger. Would not be the first time a screw or bolt/other metal, has come from a bag of pellets, and jammed them. Also, the bearings do go bad, but rare.
Not quite sure where to go from here. I pulled it apart as far as I can get to it. I'm having trouble taking out the auger itself. I can't get my wrench in the to pull it, the bearing around the shaft does spin a little.

I emptied out the hopper and vacuumed everything I could see.
 
On the older machines, they used to put silicone sealer around the bearing housing, where it slides into the stove. Can be a bugger to get unstuck!. You may have to use a thin chisle or screwdriver, to get between the bearing flange and stove housing, along with a mallet. Or try turning the bearing housing with a pipe wrench.
 
On the older machines, they used to put silicone sealer around the bearing housing, where it slides into the stove. Can be a bugger to get unstuck!. You may have to use a thin chisle or screwdriver, to get between the bearing flange and stove housing, along with a mallet. Or try turning the bearing housing with a pipe wrench.
Got that part loose I believe. Still can't get auger to budge. Might try prying it with a flathead.
 

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  • 20221230_123611.mp4
    19.1 MB
AH! Well then something bad inside there! Pry it out, only way to repair this stove!. Perhaps a chunk of metal or plastic, perhaps carbon from "gummy stove" syndrome!
 
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Got that part loose I believe. Still can't get auger to budge. Might try prying it with a flathead.
From inside the stove use a punch or a long screw driver and hammer. Put the end of the tool on the end of the auger shaft and give it a few light/medium taps and the auger will unseat in the back. I usually use a long straight blade and use my channnel locks as the hammer because that is what is in my tool bag. . It dont take much to tap the silicone loose. No silicone needed when reassembling. When reassembling, snug the bolts on the flange collar then a few taps on the end of the auger from the back then check snugness of flange bolts. Turn auger by hand a few times to be sure it is centered and not rubbing. If it is give it a few more taps and recheck. I have had many augers out using this method. Also the female threaded flange nuts will sometimes drop out. Just but back in.
 
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From inside the stove use a punch or a long screw driver and hammer. Put the end of the tool on the end of the auger shaft and give it a few light/medium taps and the auger will unseat in the back. I usually use a long straight blade and use my channnel locks as the hammer because that is what is in my tool bag. . It dont take much to tap the silicone loose. No silicone needed when reassembling. When reassembling, snug the bolts on the flange collar then a few taps on the end of the auger from the back then check snugness of flange bolts. Turn auger by hand a few times to be sure it is centered and not rubbing. If it is give it a few more taps and recheck. I have had many augers out using this method. Also the female threaded flange nuts will sometimes drop out. Just but back in.
Thanks! That is what I was going to try when I get back to it.
 
Thanks! That is what I was going to try when I get back to it.
If you have something jammed in the auger you may have to use channel locks or vise grips on the rear shaft working it back and forth to dislodge before removing auger. Alot of times turning the auger backwards a half a turn will dislodge what is stuck in there so it can be pulled out to remove the object. I have found plastic chunks, kids toys, christmas decorations pen caps, nails, small bolts ect in the auger. Seems more common when the homeowner has the pellets in a tub as opposed to pouring out of the bag directly into the stove. Typically grandkids are to blame. :) I have not had one jam to where I could not get it out
 
If you have something jammed in the auger you may have to use channel locks or vise grips on the rear shaft working it back and forth to dislodge before removing auger. Alot of times turning the auger backwards a half a turn will dislodge what is stuck in there so it can be pulled out to remove the object. I have found plastic chunks, kids toys, christmas decorations pen caps, nails, small bolts ect in the auger. Seems more common when the homeowner has the pellets in a tub as opposed to pouring out of the bag directly into the stove. Typically grandkids are to blame. :) I have not had one jam to where I could not get it out
"Well there's your problem!"

Thanks again!

20221230_170251.jpg
 
What was in there?
 
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