Mine is the chain drive with the motor off to the side. I have the rear covers off so it's easy to see.
I have a Harmon Advance that will run for about 30 to 45 minutes and then throw a status light with 6 blinks and shut down. I've tried it on both stove temp and room temp and controls maxed out with the same results and a very weak flame. So far, this is what I have done after countless hours of research:
Disassembled and thoroughly cleaned the entire stove including the heat exchangers, removed and cleaned both blowers, fines pot (door is properly installed), igniter area, intake flapper, exhaust, and esp. I also replaced the room temp rod. I am certain that the auger is not getting blocked and no bridging is occurring. I'm leaning more towards an air leak issue but I dont know how to proceed in finding it other then just replacing all the seals, etc.
Great. Feed back is important, especially to others in the future.Okay, I'm going to order a 4rpm, CCW motor. I will update this thread after install. Thank you very much for the help and fingers crossed.
Ya,harman had a 4 and 6 rpm,don't think they ever had a 2. But many other stoves use the 2.Good call on the auger motor. Just looked at 3 web sites for auger motors, listed 4 RPM only...
Read the thread properly. He has already figured out someone installed a wrong auger motor.Your auger motor is shot. The chain drive is a 1:1 also. It should be running at 1 revolution every 15 seconds. The board sends out line voltage to the motor. It is not variable speed. it is on or off. Or there is something caught in the auger or slide plate binding up the auger. If you take a allen wrench and lossen the set screw on the sprocket on the auger motor shaft, the slide the sprocket and chain off the shaft then start in test mode and see if it is still running slow. If so the motor is shot. If it runs at 4 rpm then turn auger by hand and see if it is real stiff. you should be able to turn it by hand pretty easily with no pellets in the hopper.
You can slide sprocket off and on the auger shaft without messing with the white plastic tensioner.
Somehow I did not see page 2. But the chain drives are 1 to 1. on the Accentra FS, Advance and XXV so auger will turn at same rpm as the motor.Read the thread properly. He has already figured out someone installed a wrong auger motor.
Earlier (2008 and back?) chain drives were not 1 to 1. one sprocket was 3.5" and one was 2.5". These were "upgraded" by a kit. The old parts are now pretty much obsolete, although some sellers still have some. And, the "upgrade" was also to be used with a newer control board, was figured into the programming.Somehow I did not see page 2. But the chain drives are 1 to 1. on the Accentra FS, Advance and XXV so auger will turn at same rpm as the motor.
Also, on a 6 status light most want to got toward a bad ESP or board like the OP did. From my experience a 6 status is typically caused by pellets feeding slower than the control is sending them. Bad motor, wrong motor in this case, clogged slide plate or auger, long pellets ect. Just some food for thought.
Got ya. I have not ran into one of those yet. Also There is no change for dip switch settings for charge time that I can remember when replacing the board? Maybe the difference is not that significant?Earlier (2008 and back?) chain drives were not 1 to 1. one sprocket was 3.5" and one was 2.5". These were "upgraded" by a kit. The old parts are now pretty much obsolete, although some sellers still have some. And, the "upgrade" was also to be used with a newer control board, was figured into the programming.
The "precharge" can be adjusted by several of the dip switches. The switch settings are different on different model boards, depending on the dates. But the key is, the "acceptance" of the 1 to 1 augers is within the programming on the boards. If you did a chain/sprocket update on an older stove, that still has the older board, you would have a strange running stove. But some have. It is a shame Harman never releases all this "dealer" info, even for the older models. Most of what i know I have picked up over the years, and from some Harman trained technicians. To this day, they still don't tell people that the exhaust fan cover for accentra free standings have been/were upgraded for more exhaust flow. Although they still sell the ring reducer kit for the old cover. Harman is a shame, when it comes to info.Got ya. I have not ran into one of those yet. Also There is no change for dip switch settings for charge time that I can remember when replacing the board? Maybe the difference is not that significant?
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