Harman P38 shut down

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Maybe there was a power surge of some sort or one of the motors drew too much amperage for some reason.......Kinda wonder what the amp draw is on them.. Might not be able duplicate what happened...
When you said power surge; I remembered something. A few weeks before the initial failure, we had a thunder storm, in which we lost our computer wiring connector [ have to use a wireless internet connector now], the computer router, & the wireless phone panel. Wonder if that weakened the circuit board ? Just double checked, & still getting .2V, when a fuse is inserted in the holder. And I really haven't had a beer. park4041.
 
Interesting... Let us know how you make out with the board..
 
Still being stubborn here...
Are you measuring as gfreek (post #29) says? To neutral? Measuring to the stove body may not be accurate, depending on the quality of its ground. These measurements just don't make sense to me (still…).
 
Still being stubborn here...
Are you measuring as gfreek (post #29) says? To neutral? Measuring to the stove body may not be accurate, depending on the quality of its ground. These measurements just don't make sense to me (still…).
I don't consider you being stubborn, just being helpful. I will measure, to the neutral wire, as soon as I can. I went to see the pellet stove dealer, who sold me the stove, & explained my problem. He seems to think it may be the ESP, said most of thier problelms have been with the probe; being dirty. He also said that an ohms reading wouldn't tell anything. Have to use the test meter Harman provides. I'll post a reply, once i've checked it. Thanks again park4041.
 
What was the out come here, I have a PP38+ that is blowing the fuse and am looking for a little direction.
 
What was the out come here, I have a PP38+ that is blowing the fuse and am looking for a little direction.
Good question. I'd start a new thread and state how/when your unit blows fuses and what you've tried already..
 
I would measure from the load side of the fuse to the common at the socket not on the stove. If you have a bad cord or plug this could cause your problem. Your problem sounds like no current draw = 120 volts and when the fuse gets installed .2 volts with current draw. Bad plug or wire to the stove could easily create this problem. If you get 120 volts from the fuse to the other side of the wall socket start moving the probe up the common line from the socket to the first connection at the stove. If it drops to the .2 the line cord is the problem. It would test good with no load and bad with a load.
Ron
 
In reply to my original post, P38 died. I bit the bullet & called a local repair guy, [Ash Busters, Fall River, Ma local. I explained what I had done & he said most likely the circuit board. He came out & confirmed the board was faulty, & the fix was to replace with a updated one. Not cheap, & it had to be ordered, but he did not add another road service to the second call, just the replacement time. The stove now puts out more heat, then original. He said that it would. I certainly will not hesitate to call, [Ash Busrters], if need again !
PS. Thanks to all, for help & assistance. Both of my Harman's, P38 & P41, are cranking & keeping us warm.
 
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Thanks for the update, take care and stay warm..
 
Fast forward six years and this post could be me. Just curious, the board fixed all the problems? Looks like I'll be ordering the upgrade board.

thanks

Tom