Harman P68 Feeder Weldment remove and replace

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Has anyone ever changed out the P68's feeder weldment. I have a small hole that burnt thru the auger tunnel and Im thinking changing the feeder weldment is my only option and I am wondering what I am getting myself into. Thanks in advance
 
Harman doesn't provide a lot of technical support. I searched for the instructions, but no luck. I assume that when you buy the new weldment, the removal/replacement procedure will be included. Personally, I've done a LOT of Harman repairs, but not that particular one.
I HAVE pulled the burnpot & that's a real PITA. I needed 1/4" Drive sockets with extensions & universals & not a lot of room to use them... I imagine what you're getting into with be similar. Good luck!
 
What about a spot weld of you can get in there with a welder?

How old is that P68 ??

Replacing the feeder can be done but it is a job. ;-)
Pic 1 - P68 Feeder weldment
 

Attachments

  • 202B94DE-C87B-4D19-9699-C87FD0D5F832.png
    202B94DE-C87B-4D19-9699-C87FD0D5F832.png
    346.2 KB · Views: 223
Last edited:
What about a spot weld of you can get in there with a welder?

How old is that P68 ??

Replacing the feeder can be done but it is a job. ;-)
Pic 1 - P68 Feeder weldment

i thought about trying to weld it, then grinding it smooth so it doesn't hamper the auger. I was hoping someone had changed this weldment before and could give me some hints should i decide to go that route. Stove is a 2008
 
I pulled the feeder weldment. Took about 3 hrs. Have to remove auger/ motor, hopper ( pain in the arse). burnpot, ignitor and some sheetmetal panels between hopper and stove body I removed tailpipe for greater access. All and all, not that bad
 
I pulled the feeder weldment. Took about 3 hrs. Have to remove auger/ motor, hopper ( pain in the arse). burnpot, ignitor and some sheetmetal panels between hopper and stove body I removed tailpipe for greater access. All and all, not that bad
Any pics?
 
Any pics?

I get some pics BUT what I didnt understand before i started this was.....WHAT FASTENS THE FEEDER WELDMENT TO THE STOVE BODY???? , and the answer is.....the same 4 bolts (studs) that fasten the burnpot to the stove body fasten the feeder weldment to the stove body.......... aka, The stove body (which is fixed structure) is sandwiched between the burn pot weldment and the feeder weldment. Remove the 4 nuts from the studs and viola, the burnpot weldment and the feeder weldment are loose. At this point you ONLY have to remove the hopper to get the feeder weldment off.

The hopper was held in by 4 easily removal screws and a BOAT load of RTV that seals the hoppers mouth to the feeder weldment. With all 4 hopper screws removed the sealant wouldn't allow me to remove the hopper. After wiggling the hopper back and forth and cutting sealant and repeating, the hopper came loose.
After the hopper is removed, i removed a few pieces of thin sheetmetal on the back side of the stove body (heatshields i think) and pulled out the feeder weldment. All and all not that hard once you know the 4 Burnpot nuts are key the only thing holding the burnpot and feeder weldment in place!
 
The 2 pics separately show both sides of the stove body (fixed structure) one side (top pic) is where burnpot weldment mates to the stove body and the other pic is from the back of the stove (with hopper removed) where feeder body weldment mates with the stove body...... One thing to note, when looking at the back of the stove, you can kinda see that the feeder weldment is off center with the access hole needed to pull it from the back of the stove.....just pull the feeder weldment back enough so the studs clear the stove body......shift the feed weldment a few inches to the left and out she comes. The air wash tube (shown with alot of orange RTV to seal it) was just a slip fit into the air inlet chamber and didnt present a problem. If it had been an issue, i could have easily removed the air inlet chamber as its held on with only 2 screws. There is a pile of parts sitting in my basement but i didnt think anyone wanted pics of that them. I order feeder weldment and burnpot weldment and associated gaskets. After I receive those parts I think it will take 3-5 hours to reassembly
IMG_0531.JPG
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0534.JPG
    IMG_0534.JPG
    51.8 KB · Views: 188
  • Like
Reactions: ABusWrench
I have replaced several feeders. Accentra insert is the easiest, P series not bad, Accentra freestanding is the most difficult. There is a special halo for Accentra freestanding that holds castiron sides together. When you remove the top and hopper I guess the whole stove can come apart. I think I may have used a ratchet strap on the 1st one I did? We have the halo now
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ssyko and Don2222