Harman P68 Not Working Properly Help

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

nathanastin

New Member
Nov 23, 2014
13
Vermont
My P68 stopped working last night. I set it to 70 and went to bed and woke up and later and it had burned out and was not going. Did a reset and it feeds and lights and then won't continue to feed and have a normal big flame. Ran test mode and it won't work right. Checked under burn pot and then closed door and it feeds for about 10 seconds and then stops. Could there be a problem with gaskets where it's not sensing a closed system? The hopper is full and no issues with pellets. I cleaned over the weekend and have been having issues since.
 
The only things I can think of:
-Did you hit the ESP probe while cleaning? Located in the exhaust pipe and very delicate
-Did you remove the small cover under the hopper where fines accumulate? If cover is loose vacuum is affected. Located back right side behind shield
-Make sure both door seals are ok. Do the dollar test in areas that are in question
-Make sure cover over igniter is tight (Probably not the problem)
-Double check hopper lid to make sure it is closed all the way.
-Check cold air intake for blockage.

Hope this helps
 
Is the cover on the fan behind the ash pan in place correctly and latched. Sounds like you didnt get something back together correctly. is the cover back on the front of the burnpot and are thumb screws secure? Sounds like something simple. I doubt gaskets are bad. Is there ash built up around bottom of ash pan gasket keeping ashpan from seating properly?
 
The only things I can think of:
-Did you hit the ESP probe while cleaning? Located in the exhaust pipe and very delicate
-Did you remove the small cover under the hopper where fines accumulate? If cover is loose vacuum is affected. Located back right side behind shield
-Make sure both door seals are ok. Do the dollar test in areas that are in question
-Make sure cover over igniter is tight (Probably not the problem)
-Double check hopper lid to make sure it is closed all the way.
-Check cold air intake for blockage.

Hope this helps
If I hit the ESP probe, can I do anything? Is that the pipe below that goes out next do combustion blower?

What's the dollar test? Should I see if a dollar can fit tightly in door?

Where's the cold air intake?

Thanks
 
If I hit the ESP probe, can I do anything? Is that the pipe below that goes out next do combustion blower?

What's the dollar test? Should I see if a dollar can fit tightly in door?

Where's the cold air intake?

Thanks
The ESP is in the outlet pipe. You have to clean that out going pipe in order to hit the ESP with anything. if you take out the ash pan then in the back of the ash pan compartment you will see a hatch that covers the out going pipe and where the exhaust/combustion fan is. There is a lever that you lift, then the hatch is removed. With a light you can look inside the pipe and see the probe in there. If you have never done any of this then you probably never hit the ESP probe but it may need cleaning.

Did you clean under the burn pot ? There is a hatch there as well, small hatch held in with two thumb screws. Easiest access is with the ash pan removed. In there is where your igniter is and it can get blocked with ash.. That channel feeds your burn pot with air. Loosen the screws and lift out that hatch. You should clean out the ash in there if you have not.
 
The ESP is in the outlet pipe. You have to clean that out going pipe in order to hit the ESP with anything. if you take out the ash pan then in the back of the ash pan compartment you will see a hatch that covers the out going pipe and where the exhaust/combustion fan is. There is a lever that you lift, then the hatch is removed. With a light you can look inside the pipe and see the probe in there. If you have never done any of this then you probably never hit the ESP probe but it may need cleaning.

Did you clean under the burn pot ? There is a hatch there as well, small hatch held in with two thumb screws. Easiest access is with the ash pan removed. In there is where your igniter is and it can get blocked with ash.. That channel feeds your burn pot with air. Loosen the screws and lift out that hatch. You should clean out the ash in there if you have not.

Yeah I've cleaned that and double checked it. I saw the esp probe. It looks fine, but maybe it has dirt on it that's a problem, but there's no clog there. Also, I would think I would get the 6 blink error if it had a problem, right? Should I try the blower on my shop vac out the pipe with ESP to see if there's a clog?
 
Yeah I've cleaned that and double checked it. I saw the esp probe. It looks fine, but maybe it has dirt on it that's a problem, but there's no clog there. Also, I would think I would get the 6 blink error if it had a problem, right? Should I try the blower on my shop vac out the pipe with ESP to see if there's a clog?
You could try the blower, I've never done it myself.

I use a soft bristled paint brush to wipe off the ESP. granted that leaves the back side dirty but it's probably not sensing all that much back there anyway. They get sooted up and don't perform up to standard. I just take that brush and being soft I'm not afraid to briskly dust off the ESP. often you can see the difference in the looks of it. You want to see it looking rather shiny, like metal. Others remove it and wipe it down with a mild cleaning solution and paper towels. You probably won't get a code unless the probe has failed for reasons other than dirt.

Did you clean the fines box ? That cover can be tricky getting back on. I've done it myself where the top tab did not go through the slot on the cover and so the cover sat in there unseated. I caught myself in a double check but still just sayin
 
Last edited:
You could try the blower, I've never done it myself.

I use a soft bristled paint brush to wipe off the ESP. granted that leaves the back side dirty but it's probably not sensing all that much back there anyway. They get sooted up and don't perform up to standard. I just take that brush and being soft I'm not afraid to briskly dust off the ESP. often you can see the difference in the looks of it. You want to see it looking rather shiny, like metal. Others remove it and wipe it down with a mild cleaning solution and paper towels. You probably won't get a code unless the probe has failed for reasons other than dirt.

Did you clean the fines box ? That cover can be tricky getting back on. I've done it myself where the top tab did not go through the slot on the cover and so the cover sat in there unseated. I caught myself in a double check but still just sayin
I've tried everything. Did the blower, cleaned of ESP with brush, cleaned fine box again. It's burning some now, but only little bits and no big flames. I've tried on both room temp and stove temp. Could it be a power issue? The outlet that I plug into is finicky and if it gets bumped the stove goes out. I was thinking maybe it's not putting enough power and it's not working up to speed, but I assume if it wasn't getting enough power nothing would work. And of course it's a holiday and even if I can get ahold of dealer tomorrow, who know when I can get a tech here.
 
I've tried everything. Did the blower, cleaned of ESP with brush, cleaned fine box again. It's burning some now, but only little bits and no big flames. I've tried on both room temp and stove temp. Could it be a power issue? The outlet that I plug into is finicky and if it gets bumped the stove goes out. I was thinking maybe it's not putting enough power and it's not working up to speed, but I assume if it wasn't getting enough power nothing would work. And of course it's a holiday and even if I can get ahold of dealer tomorrow, who know when I can get a tech here.
Since it responded somewhat maybe take that ESP out and give it a good cleaning . And you can always plug in an extension cord to try another outlet. Finicky outlets are just plain unreliable anyway. You know what to do with it.

When is the last time you cleaned the vent piping ?
 
I've never cleaned the vent pipe, but this is a new stove and I've only burned about a ton. I think I'll try the extension cord just to make sure.
 
I've never cleaned the vent pipe, but this is a new stove and I've only burned about a ton. I think I'll try the extension cord just to make sure.
Is your vent 3" horizontal out ? Or 4" vertical ? I ask because after a ton on the smaller pipe and especially horizontal only it could well need brushing out after a ton of pellets. The 4" vertical will go a bit longer but depending on ash one never knows.
 
Is your vent 3" horizontal out ? Or 4" vertical ? I ask because after a ton on the smaller pipe and especially horizontal only it could well need brushing out after a ton of pellets. The 4" vertical will go a bit longer but depending on ash one never knows.

I'm not sure, but I would guess 3"
 
No, I need to get one tomorrow. How do I clean the pipe without taking it apart? I have a long pipe and it vents high on my house outside. It had to because my oil fill up for furnace was on same side, so it had to go 6 feet above that. I have a hard time getting up to the outside vent. Maybe a long cleaner that bends?
 
Are these the same pellets that have worked reliably just before the cleaning ? I am sensitive to pellets right now since I have a batch that is hit and miss and presumably have drawn moisture in some bags worse than others. The problem pellets just wont auger through the system well, crumble more easily and don't give me reliable or expected fire as I am used to. Almost dies out when acting up but never has completely.
 
Are these the same pellets that have worked reliably just before the cleaning ? I am sensitive to pellets right now since I have a batch that is hit and miss and presumably have drawn moisture in some bags worse than others. The problem pellets just wont auger through the system well, crumble more easily and don't give me reliable or expected fire as I am used to. Almost dies out when acting up but never has completely.
You know that could be it. I'm using the same ones I had before. I bought 4 tons of Energex because my dealer only had that at time, but they are horrible. I did put in a new bag that had gotten a small amount of rain on it, but I didn't see any moisture in bag. I do have a ton of Trumans I bought for January; maybe I can could put those in next after these slowly burn through and see if that's it.
 
Partly plugged vent can make the stove not breath right and so heat builds up making the ESP think it hot so the feed rate goes to minimal. I have couple other stoves that will do basically that too.
 
No, I need to get one tomorrow. How do I clean the pipe without taking it apart? I have a long pipe and it vents high on my house outside. It had to because my oil fill up for furnace was on same side, so it had to go 6 feet above that. I have a hard time getting up to the outside vent. Maybe a long cleaner that bends?
Is there a clean out T outdoors ? Or let me ask this. Is the venting inside and out or straight out and then up ? If you have a T outside it will have a clean out cap on the bottom. open that up ( there is often two caps there, one inside the pipe and then the one you see when looking at the pipe, that is mainly just a cover, the inner leads to the venting.). Then you can run your brush from the bottom up. And from the stove out to the T. You will find most of the ash near the bottom and in the cap when you remove it. But I'm assuming a lot here since I don't know if this is the system you have !!

Indeed Energex are dirty, if three inch pipe you most assuredly need to clean the venting.
 
If there is no clean-out on the outside (just an elbow), you may want to consider adding one before we get too deep into winter. Maintenance of venting after every ton +/- needed (depends on venting set-up and pellet quality) . If it is a long run and only 3" venting, will definitely need to be cleaned!

The other option is the Leaf Blower Trick ... do a search of the forum using the box at the top of the page. Remember to disconnect the vacuum switch before hand....
 
Is there a clean out T outdoors ? Or let me ask this. Is the venting inside and out or straight out and then up ? If you have a T outside it will have a clean out cap on the bottom. open that up ( there is often two caps there, one inside the pipe and then the one you see when looking at the pipe, that is mainly just a cover, the inner leads to the venting.). Then you can run your brush from the bottom up. And from the stove out to the T. You will find most of the ash near the bottom and in the cap when you remove it. But I'm assuming a lot here since I don't know if this is the system you have !!

Indeed Energex are dirty, if three inch pipe you most assuredly need to clean the venting.
The venting is up and then it turns out and goes out form there. There is a long run of pipe inside that goes up the wall and then 90' outside high up the house. Unfortunately they didn't install a clean-out.
 
If there is no clean-out on the outside (just an elbow), you may want to consider adding one before we get too deep into winter. Maintenance of venting after every ton +/- needed (depends on venting set-up and pellet quality) . If it is a long run and only 3" venting, will definitely need to be cleaned!

The other option is the Leaf Blower Trick ... do a search of the forum using the box at the top of the page. Remember to disconnect the vacuum switch before hand....
I did the blower with my ash vac, but no my leaf blower because I was worried it would be too powerful, but I may try that. It's such a long run and will be a pain to clean. My dealer recommended once a year clean out from them which is $170. That may be ok once a year, but not every ton.
 
If there is no clean-out on the outside (just an elbow), you may want to consider adding one before we get too deep into winter. Maintenance of venting after every ton +/- needed (depends on venting set-up and pellet quality) . If it is a long run and only 3" venting, will definitely need to be cleaned!

The other option is the Leaf Blower Trick ... do a search of the forum using the box at the top of the page. Remember to disconnect the vacuum switch before hand....
Could I blow the leaf blower from the outside in down the pipe? Would the ash blow into the stove and then I could vacuum out?
 
I did the blower with my ash vac, but no my leaf blower because I was worried it would be too powerful, but I may try that. It's such a long run and will be a pain to clean. My dealer recommended once a year clean out from them which is $170. That may be ok once a year, but not every ton.
I have 26 ft. of vertical 4" liner and I burn Energex for part of the year. In a full hot burn it's not so bad but in low burn you will collect ash both in the horizontal pipe and the first ten ft or so of vertical pipe. And certainly the T or elbows. I will go nearly two months but feel the need to clean by then so have never made two months or two tons.. I could see with 4" mostly vertical and decent pellets you could go till mid season and clean and then again end of season. With 3 inch no way, especially if it's 3" horizontal for longer than 2 ft. The ash will lay right in there. I only go out a foot or so and then right up but it's all 4".

And incidentally, I brush from the bottom up the whole 26 ft. Doesn't take long, I use a drill to power the brush set and just add on more length as it goes up ( 5 ft rods). I can't get it half way without the drill FWIW.
 
You basically have a brand new stove, having only burned a ton. You stated that it has not run well since you just cleaned it. Remove and clean and inspect the esp probe. Could you have damaged it during cleaning? Recheck the fines cover for proper seating, if you had just cleaned out that chamber. I am not confident that the installer did a professional installation, since he did not provide a clean out tee. Makes me wonder about other aspects of the installation. As far as the finicky outlet is concerned, you either have power or you don't, nothing halfway. The faulty outlet is not causing your problems with the stove, but is a safety hazard. For safety reasons, have the outlet replaced before using it. Use a proper extension cord to a different outlet, not a cheesey lamp cord extension. Do not use the leaf blower to blow down towards the stove. Call the dealer tomorrow, since the unit is under warranty, and hopefully he will take care of you.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: lessoil
Status
Not open for further replies.