I am attempting to put this stove back in service. Everything has checked out and run as it should except the air compressor. Before ordering this part I found the the two bottom bolts that secure the burn pot have been twisted off. Can anyone advise me about replacing the bolts. It appears that the bolts are installed during fabrication and there is no way to access them. If that is the case I fear this stove has seen the end of its usefulness. Any suggestions would be appreciated
Harman PC 45 Serial NO 820
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Northwoodneil
Feeling the Heat
If I remember correctly the bolts are spot welded on the back side. It's been awhile since I replaced my weldment and had a view of that area. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are but the whole feeder unit can be replaced, I did mine because a hole wore in the auger housing. It's not hard to do but it does mean a total tear down of the stove. Also those broken bolts (basically studs) could be drilled out and tapped for bolts. I would not write off your stove for any of the problems you're having. One more thing if you don't burn corn you don't need that high pressure igniter and pump and could switch the stove over to a p61 for about the same price as the air pump. Some folks tried an aquarium pump but with very limited success.
Thank you for the reply, you have confirmed my suspicions that the bolts/ studs are welded from the back side. I would like to drill out, tap , and install new studs, but I think the originial bolts were stainless steel and I haven"t found any drill that will do the job.
Could I countersink the plate with the ceramic disk, insert bolts and spot weld the plate to the back of the stove??
Thanks again for your reply, most appreciated
If I can get the burn pot problem fixed, could you point me in the right direction to convert to the p61 conversion?
![[Hearth.com] Harman PC 45 Serial NO 820](/talk/proxy.php?image=https%3A%2F%2Fssl.gstatic.com%2Fui%2Fv1%2Ficons%2Fmail%2Fimages%2Fcleardot.gif&hash=4d32275b722d047706dadac4a1255858 "[Hearth.com] Harman PC 45 Serial NO 820")
Could I countersink the plate with the ceramic disk, insert bolts and spot weld the plate to the back of the stove??
Thanks again for your reply, most appreciated
If I can get the burn pot problem fixed, could you point me in the right direction to convert to the p61 conversion?
Northwoodneil
Feeling the Heat
I'm not thinking that the bolts were stainless but maybe work hardened from the heating and cooling affect. Heating the bolt area to cherry red and letting it cool slowly should soften them back up to be drilled. Drilling stainless takes a sharp bit and a fast feed rate as it work hardens as it heats up. I haven't had much luck with regular cutting oils (on stainless) but a product called "Cool Tool" works for me. There is a post on here about converting a PC45 to a P61 and a quick search should get you there. I never converted from my high pressure ignition to a finned igniter because my igniter hasn't failed me so I don't know if you can use your circuit board or would have to update to a platinum board (much cheaper then a original 45 board). My guess is hooking a finned igniter into the wiring for your high pressure igniter should work. It's 110V and should shut off when the esp says the stove is up to temp. Don't give up on your 45 they don't make 'em anymore and they are a great and simple stove.
Finally got the twisted off bolts out after a complete stove break down. Also was able to get the air compressor to run after break down and cleaning. Does anyone know if the orginial control board will work with a p61 pellet burn pot. I cannot find any dip switches on this control board and the feed motor runs ever 15 sec for approximately 3 secs. Thanks all
You will need a new control board if you convert it. The PC45 has its own specific board since the ignition is complexly different. You have to change the wiring harness also along with the burn pot igniter and cradle ect. It is not rocket science but it does take some doing.
Northwoodneil
Feeling the Heat
I didn't change my board when I installed the P61 burn pot and flame guard but I also still run high pressure ignition. I have an upgraded board with dip switches and only changed the fire up pellet charge because it was feeding to heavy and was giving me delayed ignition and a "woof" sometimes. The boards on a 61 feed different then a 45 but once the stove is up and running it doesn't matter. Yes, the pump (and igniter together) should shut down when the stove reaches temp.
Got the stove put together today and did a test run. Everything started off well but stove filled with smoke for some time and then finally ignited. Pellet feed was way to slow. Feed motor would run every 15 secs for approx 3 sec. Compressor and ignitor never switched off. Stove shut down , no power light on CB. Thinking the CB is gone. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I don't know if you have seen my last post but seems you were correct about me needing to change the control board. Would you know the part number for the control board and other required items. Does the echaust fan cover opening need to be made larger? Double fan blade? I have spent a lot of time so I am in for the long haul and expense of the upgrade.
Thank you
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