OK- I am having thr same problem as no heat- except I have no smoke in the house, thank goodness! Pyro- Thank you for putting the Harman site on- The booklet that I got with mine is a copy machine run off- not a booklet with clear pictures- it is for the Accentra. It says 'R3' on the booklet. I also was not offered to have the stove put in for me. Maybe because they are 4 hours away...( I am in BFE). When it is daylight tomorrow, I will try to clean all parts again- it is supposed to be 7 degrees Wednesday!! Pyro- what is happening when the fires actually starts- it gives a big 'clang', like a metal door is slamming shut. It does not happen very often- usually when the fire starts it is quiet. Because I had to install it myself, there was no check of the Draft meter- you told No Heat to take the nut off, and light a match, and see if there is updraft of the flame. Do I do this when the stove is 'attempting' to start- or with it totally off? Sorry- dumb female question! What do I want the flame to do? I am at 5,500 feet above sea level, if that makes any difference. I'll probably think of more questions later. Oh- No Heat- last year when it was doing this, I took the vent off the stove- where is attaches at the back, the 'T'- the part of the 'T' that points down. It was full of ash. It took care of the problem. Not this time, though!
Harman problem, same as no heat
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Can you post a lil more info....how did you set it up and your problem sounds a little diffrent.
How is your pipe setup? Direct vent? 3" pipe or 4"? Aprox run of PV pipe?
Do both blowers fire up? It sounds like maybe your Room air blower may be broken.
Can you put the stove into test mode and see if you get the metal clang? Does the Auger run? Does the combustion fan turn on? (check lights on control pannel also)
With the stove off and unplugged remove the rear covers. See if you can turn the Room air fan.
How is your pipe setup? Direct vent? 3" pipe or 4"? Aprox run of PV pipe?
Do both blowers fire up? It sounds like maybe your Room air blower may be broken.
Can you put the stove into test mode and see if you get the metal clang? Does the Auger run? Does the combustion fan turn on? (check lights on control pannel also)
With the stove off and unplugged remove the rear covers. See if you can turn the Room air fan.
- Dec 14, 2005
- 121
if the distribution blower isn't coming on you may have more then just an issue with the blower itself. Your ESP probe (the probe located int he flue) may not be working properly. The probe needs to reach 155 degrees upon start up before the blower will even come on. If the probe doesn't hit this temp. the blower isn't ever going to turn on.
MrWinkey has a good point though, put the unit is test mode (cold stove) and make sure that all the lights on the control board come one once you see that they are all on check to see if the auger is turning. If that is turning then we know the combustion blower is working. Then put your hand in front of the stove and make sure there is air coming out from the distribution blower. let us know what you find out.
MrWinkey has a good point though, put the unit is test mode (cold stove) and make sure that all the lights on the control board come one once you see that they are all on check to see if the auger is turning. If that is turning then we know the combustion blower is working. Then put your hand in front of the stove and make sure there is air coming out from the distribution blower. let us know what you find out.
I think the metal clang she is describing is at ignition of the pellets, a mini explosion inside the stove when the combustible gasses finaly ignite.
If this is what it is, then I assume the stove has a very smokey startup correct......
The stove needs a good path of airflow follow the maintenance procedure in this link (broken link removed to http://www.harmanstoves.com/maintenance/accentracleaninginstructions.pdf)
Could also be a weak or dirty ignitor or the comb blower is weak, High altitude requires a different fan blade on the comb blower, I'm not sure at what height it is required though.
the match check for draft was only to verify that the flue is not plugged.
A clear flue the match would pull in to the stove a blocked flue would blow air out at the match, resulting in the smoke filled hopper. You do not need this test done it just sounds like it needs a good thorough cleaning let us know how you make out..
If this is what it is, then I assume the stove has a very smokey startup correct......
The stove needs a good path of airflow follow the maintenance procedure in this link (broken link removed to http://www.harmanstoves.com/maintenance/accentracleaninginstructions.pdf)
Could also be a weak or dirty ignitor or the comb blower is weak, High altitude requires a different fan blade on the comb blower, I'm not sure at what height it is required though.
the match check for draft was only to verify that the flue is not plugged.
A clear flue the match would pull in to the stove a blocked flue would blow air out at the match, resulting in the smoke filled hopper. You do not need this test done it just sounds like it needs a good thorough cleaning let us know how you make out..
- Dec 14, 2005
- 121
The metal clang she's hearing could also be pellets getting caught between the slide plate and the feeder body. the pressure of the slide plate closing on a pellet will cause a lound clang/bang noise when the pellet finally breaks in half.
I don't believe there ignitors go "weak", they either work or they don't from what I understand. That's one good thing about harman ignitors. their easy to tell if they work or not.
As for high altitude I believe the Accentra's already come with a "high altitude" fan blade. It's a 5" double paddle fan blade. I know in the past they used to built with a 5" single paddle blade but because of some high altitude installations they just went to building them with the 5" double paddle blade. cuts down on the guess work I suppose.
I don't believe there ignitors go "weak", they either work or they don't from what I understand. That's one good thing about harman ignitors. their easy to tell if they work or not.
As for high altitude I believe the Accentra's already come with a "high altitude" fan blade. It's a 5" double paddle fan blade. I know in the past they used to built with a 5" single paddle blade but because of some high altitude installations they just went to building them with the 5" double paddle blade. cuts down on the guess work I suppose.
Yeah but she said "when the fire actually starts" Sounds like the intake damper being blown shut at initial ignition..
As far as the ignitors getting weak all heaters will lose thier power over time. But weak can be generalized as say an ignitor that has become insulated by excess ash around it.
As far as the ignitors getting weak all heaters will lose thier power over time. But weak can be generalized as say an ignitor that has become insulated by excess ash around it.
OK- thanks for all your info. Today I cleaned it- opened front and back- the site that pyro was so much clearer in pictures than my manuel. I got very little dust/dirt out- I'd say about 1 cup worth between front and back. This is the first time I opened the back- nothing back there, just very, very small amount on the fan cover in back (I think that is what it is- facing back of stove it is towards the left). There was zero in the chimny. Anyway, it fired up so easy tonite!! I also called the place I bought it from, and asked what brand of pellets were the best out here in BFE. He said an oak- He gave me about 5 names- I can get Firemaster about 100 miles from here. I am going to try some of these to see if I get a hotter burn, as I would in a wood burning stove. I am so happy it started so easy- hope it keeps up. Oh I forgot- gva was right- when I had the back open, and looking for soot/dust, I hit the damper with my brush- it was the sound I was hearing- the mettalic 'clang'.
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