Harman XXV Installation Gone Wrong

[mhudson]

When we moved, we left our XXV as a part of the deal. Now - years later - we decided we wanted to get a stove again, and so we did. I hired a contractor for the installation, but when the building inspector came out for final inspection he noted that the termination pipe was too close to combustible materials. The contractor had terminated the pipe very close to the staircase on our wood deck. The inspector noted that it needs to be 36".

I'm searching for "fixes" besides moving the stove because it's really ideal where it is (with regards to the way the house is situated). We've contemplated moving the stairs to the other side of the deck, which would provide the clearance required. One question I had for the inspector - who didn't know the answer - is if there is any sort of non-combustible material (steel sheeting) that we could wrap the edge of the staircase with so it is compliant? Technically there would still be combustible material within 36", but it would be inaccessible to the heat/embers that may escape the termination pipe.

Has anyone heard of or used something like this?

 

[Washed-Up]

Photos would be helpful. You could also put an elbow on it and go up as high as need be with a length of exhaust pipe if possible.

 

[jackman]

I agree with Washed-Up we need some photos. I had a similar situation but was able to solve it by extending and adding a 45 to the vent pipe.

 

[mhudson]

Images attached. It's a corner set-up inside, which was all approved. The issue is the termination pipe. It's direct vent with the outside air piece, but it only 6" from the railing on our staircase. Can this pipe simply be extended outward to meet the criteria?

 

[jackman]

I'd get the contractor back and have him fix it at his expense. He should have known better. If he's not willing to honor his work and you're on your own I can suggest two approaches. One is to put a 45 on the pipe where it exits the thimble and extend it enough to give you 36" of clearance from the deck. Approach two would be to replace the railing with stainless steel posts and horizontal cable. I just did this on my house because all the railing was rotted and unsafe. It's expensive though.

I'm just a homeowner and no expert so I'm not sure if either method would satisfy the building inspector. It would be good if you could contact him or her and pose any ideas you have to see if it would get an approval.

 

[Washed-Up]

All good suggestions, you may want to check with the inspector as well and get a copy of the building codes for your area...metal railing is a great idea

 

[hockeypuck]

Replacing with steel is the way to go. Paint it gray and no one will notice

 

[zrock]

For a quick temp solution you could get a pc of hardi board and put it up against the stairs it is fire proof and a acceptable fire block. Other way to fix as stated above is run it up the siding and terminate it higher up. Probably not that expensive as the contractor could reuse the existing pipe and swap it out for a shorter one, would probably only need 2pc of pipe, cleanout, and new rain cap along with a few straps. But this should all be done at contractors expense as he was the one that screwed up and did not check local code before completing.. Be interesting to know what he charged you for that

 

[rickwai]

I would say that if you put a 45 then a 1' piece and then the cap it would pass. Almost all installs terminate within 3' of combustible materials. How many peoples caps are 3' from your siding?