Has anyone moved/ repositioned circuit board?

[doublekay2]

Hi.
Started this project is a cheap way to stop burning kind of oil in my basement. Turns out nothing stoop if you wanna do it right to write the first time.

I have a King/ Ashley 5500 M but where I’m gonna put it the stove, the on off/controls will be not very easy and tough to get to. Hate that they put this on the back left corner of the stove.

Since I have a wall right there does anyone successfully moved the circuitboard to mount it would say on the wall? I don’t think it should be hard I don’t wanna make any more work for myself that I have to. Was surprised and I didn’t see this anywhere in the threads as I would think a lot of people would like to reposition the controls. Thinking out loud and figured I can’t be the only one to have this question

Thanks again everyone’s been helpful here

 

[ARC]

I don’t think it should be hard

The short answer is yes it can be done. All the wiring could be spliced and extended with the exception of the Thermistor. The Thermistor is the white cloth wire that goes from board to exhaust blower it measures the temperature. It works on resistance so the length, gauge, and material that it is made of all come into factor. So the easiest way would be to relocate the control board within reach of the current length of the Thermistor wire IE right side of stove in rear. That said US Stove does have longer Thermistors for the upper ducts in their 6XXX seiries pellet furnaces with advanced knowledge in electronics you could figure the resitance of the longer wire compared to the current wire and make adjustments using the C codes. You could adjust the Low and High temperature settings in accordance with the difference in longer vs shorter Thermistor wires or by trial and error.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Something I don't have a thermosister... No thermobrother either. Had one in the frig in my RV and took it out and replaced it with a variable resistance pot.

Guess 6039's don't need one, at least mine don't.

 

[Pelleting In NJ]

If the temperature sensor is a thermistor, the length/resistance of an extension wire will not matter...unless you are extending the wire by hundreds of feet. If the temperature sensor is a thermocouple, then the metal of the extension wires matters, but not the length.

 

[SidecarFlip]

I had to extend the harness on my hay bailer as it was a tad too short and it's all computer controlled (kind of like a stove). What I did was a went to good old Harbor Freight and bought different colored hookup wire on spools (I think they sell them in kit packages) and it's copper stranded wire (which is what you want). Cut the harness stripped the ends back about 2" on the hookup wire and the harness, slipped a length of heat shrink tubing over one end, twisted the ends together and soldered them with rosin core solder, slid the heat shrink tubing over the splice and shrunk it with my propane torch.

In my case I had to enclose the lengthened part in a expandable nylon loom for strain relief but in your case you don't. Just makes sure your splices are soldered well and the heat shrink covers the entire spliced part.