Have been running the Eko 40 for 5 days now some questions

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Looks like it might be a pretty standard auto themostat. I wonder if there is a standard part from the auto store that might be a replacement for "bad" ones that is pretty cheap ?

FYI, I slowed my fan to 50% and closed my shutters to about 1/3 ( I think not sure ) to get a blue and very hot flame in my eko 60. Running on high blew through the wood and caused a lot of bridging for me at least.
 
mwk1000 said:
Looks like it might be a pretty standard auto themostat. I wonder if there is a standard part from the auto store that might be a replacement for "bad" ones that is pretty cheap ?

FYI, I slowed my fan to 50% and closed my shutters to about 1/3 ( I think not sure ) to get a blue and very hot flame in my eko 60. Running on high blew through the wood and caused a lot of bridging for me at least.


mwk,

Unless your running only 1 fan on your eko 60 your not talking apples to apples. He is running a 40 with a single fan.


I run my eko 60 with only one fan @ 100% and shutter @ 100% open much like a eko 40

PS I sent you a PM

Rob
 
ihookem said:
Hulk, it isn't hard to believe it isn't working right. Mine doesn't always work right neither. I can run my boiler and the valve doesn't always let water through after a cold start. It will get water temps in boiler till it blows an e2 code. I then have to turn the valve to bypass the Danfoss valve and then it sends hot water to the house. After that it works again till I start a new fire, but then sometimes it works. Seems sometimes the thermostat sticks or something. Talk about panic and confusion. Had no idea what to do till I called Mark at Ahona. I now keep it bypassed and run the pump off the thermostat. Hope this helps.

If the Danfoss is correctly oriented, which I believe it is, it is the recirculating water (the bypass pipe that comes from the output of the boiler to the input) that actually activates the Danfoss so there has to be water flowing from the output of the boiler to the input (center tapping on Danfoss). When the recirculating water reaches 140* it activates the thermostat and water from the system starts to flow through the Danfoss and through the boiler. The way you are explaining your actions in the above post, it sounds like you have the bypass valve closed and then you open it to "send water through the house". The valve should be open at all times. The only reason it is there is to throttle the amount of flow through the bypass in order to achieve more or less flow through the "system" plumbing.
 
Ahh, I did not realize the 40 only had one fan. My bad. So with that in mind we are pretty close 2@50% or 1 at 100%
 
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