Have inefficient insert

[dbreed]

installed in the NW corner of large living/dining room, central to a double-wide mobile home.
I also have available to me a nice free-standing woodstove. It is not a Lopi, although I did work in their Redmond, WA factory doing Finish work in 1983.

I am considering adding footage to the hearth, in the form of 18" x 18" x 2" concrete pavers to accommodate the woodstove in order to utilize it. Or?????

Some suggestions on how best to do this are welcomed.
I am not against removing the insert and altering the hearth and surrounding woodwork, but am working with budget restraints at this time.
The only cost for the woodstove is to obtain glass for the door, and flue to meet the existing chimney.

How best would you suggest I do this?

 

[woodgeek]

Step 1 is get the manual for that stove so you can pull the clearances, minimum R-value of the hearth underneath, etc.

If its a newer/shielded stove with low clearances/R-values, you will likely find using it 'ok' (even w/pavers, I'd put a cement board underneath to cover the gaps). If its unlisted or no manual, then the default clearances/R are huge and a safe installation is not a simple affair. If your stove is a old one (huge clearances), picking up the cheapest EPA stove on sale (still close to $1000) may fix the clearance issues and will save you wood in the long run.

It's not rocket science--respect the stated clearances and R-values for whatever stove you end up with and keep the flue clean--and you'll be ok.

 

[begreen]

Normally a rear-exit stove is used for a hearth stove. Is this stove top exit? If so, there's a pretty good chance it will be too tall.

 

[dbreed]

Normally a rear-exit stove is used for a hearth stove. Is this stove top exit? If so, there's a pretty good chance it will be too tall.

Yep, it is a top exit. Might be a problem to plumb a flue with that.
Would it hurt to to use three 90-degrees elbows to level it out? Will that cause a restriction in the exhaust flow?

 

[dbreed]

Ok, I got the detail from Dad.
This is a Warnock-Hersey, model number 18TR.
He has the manual and operating instructions he downloaded from www.englanderstove.com

He also says that the glass that needs replacing in both of these that he has is $72.00.
Does that seem reasonable, or should I seek a local source for generic glass?

It is a top-exit, so, should I try 90's to match the existing insert flue, or try to find a trade that has a rear-exit?

PS, Dad is interested in selling the other stove as he has no need for it.

He has a nice gas-fired insert (he only uses the gas to light the fire) rarely uses it and has a Heatmor outside to heat the home and water.

Why he bought these I can only guess. He must have got them dirt cheap even without the glass in the doors.

We live in SW Missouri, so any offers would need to be pretty local.

 

[begreen]

I'm going to guess the stove is 30+ inches high. With an elbow, the top of the elbow would be around 40". Then the pipe has to go, pitched uphill slightly back a couple/few feet, another 90, then connected to the liner. If single wall the pipe needs 18" from combustibles. If the flue is single story, then I suspect the draft would be pretty poor with this combo assuming the pipe would clear the lintel.

Can you post a picture of the current setup maybe with a tape measure run up to the mantel? That'd be a big help.

 

[dbreed]

Tomorrow I will measure all aspects. Stove floor to exit height.
Opening height of insert, etc.

My assumption is that if there is any DOWNWARD sloping in flue, this is not a good thing.

Therefore, I should try to trade for a rear-exit that allows a level or UPWARD sloping flue, correct?

 

[begreen]

That is one option and if you can get an EPA stove instead of this non-EPA model, that would be even better.

 

[woodgeek]

It does not look like there is a stated min R-value for floor protection in the manual, but...on page one it says: "DO NOT INSTALL THIS UNIT IN A MOBILE HOME", probably not going to impress the ins co.

Sorry dude.

 

[dbreed]

It does not look like there is a stated min R-value for floor protection in the manual, but...on page one it says: "DO NOT INSTALL THIS UNIT IN A MOBILE HOME", probably not going to impress the ins co.

Sorry dude.

Good Point!

BTW, what is the difference in EPA vs non-EPA?

Efficiency or emissions, or ?

 

[begreen]

Yes, both. This is what is called a 35:1 stove.

 

[dbreed]

Well, since I am the woodcutter, efficiency matters to me. Less to burn, less to cut and split.
So, Ill bargain for an EPA stove in trade for this one.

Need to find a dumber than me Missouri hick to deal with! ;-)

Still, the insurance issue is a sticky wicket. Need to learn if they allow any or none at all.

 

[dbreed]

Yes, both. This is what is called a 35:1 stove.

This is a ratio I am unfamiliar with. What it do mean?