Hearth Build Advice for Tiny Cabin

[Kory Beam]

Hello!
I am in the process of designing/building a hearth for my Jotul F 100 stove.
We removed an old wood burning insert and we will be venting the new Jotul out that same wall using a through-the-wall thimble (DuraPlus kit).
The F 100 has a rear heat shield, and it looks like there is also the same/similar metal shield installed on the bottom. Manufacturer clearances look pretty good.

My question pertains to building the hearth. The cabin is small (460 sq.ft.) and we don't want to build a stone fortress if the F 100's close clearances allow for a lesser design. I originally liked the online Jotul product shots that showed minimal installs with stoves sitting on clear glass sheets/slabs over wood flooring. Also some thin countertop-ish looking slabs on top of wood flooring... look like Silestone, granite, or slate? Some walls were simply finished sheetrock behind the stoves. No stone/tile coverings.

Are these type of minimal installs possible with this F 100 stove, given the clearances? Staged product shots? Obviously I will maintain all manufacturer clearances. The stoves in these product shots do look like they are too close to the wall if that is just sheetrock.

Here are some pics of the product shots I am referring to. Also including a pic my wall where the stove will be installed with the platform I started designing, that was to be covered in Durock and porcelain tile. Just considering my options before I proceed with the elevated porcelain plan. Appreciate any advice! Thank you!

 

[begreen]

Welcome. The F100 is a nice little stove. Plain glass or tile on cement board can be used for the hearth as long as the stove has the bottom heat shield attached. The stove should also have the factory rear heat shield installed. Verify this with the dealer. It looks like the stove clearance can be as low as 8" from the back with double-wall stove pipe connecting it to the thimble.

 

[Kory Beam]

Thank you, begreen. Yes, factory heat shields attached... bottom and rear. Wow, 8" from back to combustible wall is great(using double-wall). Good to know I can be that close to the wall, should I opt not to go with ledgestone or tile behind the stove.

If I do decide to face the wall with ledgestone/tile over Durock, can I just install 1/2" Durock directly to the studs and tile over? I have read that some people are leaving a 1" air gap between the wall framing and the CBU to dissipate heat. Is an air gap not necessary as long as I follow the listed clearances to combustibles/non-combustibles? There is no mention of any air gap in the installation instructions. Just wondering. Thank you!

 

[Oldman47]

If you are going to use single wall connector you will need that inch air gap. If you use double wall and comply with the manufacturer's clearances, Durock directly on wooden studs with ceramic tile can look like this, my own location. Note, for vertical applications Durock recommends the 1/2 inch thick rather than the 1/4 inch you could use on the floor. For my install I got to play with both.
(broken image removed)

 

[begreen]

Thank you, begreen. Yes, factory heat shields attached... bottom and rear. Wow, 8" from back to combustible wall is great(using double-wall). Good to know I can be that close to the wall, should I opt not to go with ledgestone or tile behind the stove.

If I do decide to face the wall with ledgestone/tile over Durock, can I just install 1/2" Durock directly to the studs and tile over? I have read that some people are leaving a 1" air gap between the wall framing and the CBU to dissipate heat. Is an air gap not necessary as long as I follow the listed clearances to combustibles/non-combustibles? There is no mention of any air gap in the installation instructions. Just wondering. Thank you!

Yes you can attach the 1/2" Durock directly to the studs. Screw it every 8". The clearances listed in the manual are tested to the nearest combustible. You do not need an NFPA wall shield with the air gap to achieve them. However, they are the minimum. There is no harm in exceeding the minimums for a bit more peace of mind. And there is no harm in adding the 1" air gap if you want additional protection.

 

[Kory Beam]

Appreciated, gentleman. Wall looks great, Oldman47.

I'll give some more thought to my options, and will update this thread when things come together. Thanks again!