Hearth Pad...any ideas?

[ccady]

Hi Folks, I have to extend our existing fireplace hearth to satisfy local codes and stove installation requirements for a direct-connect installation into an existing fireplace flue. I had considered using wood framing as the base for a pad (saw photos in another thread), the problem arises where the pad meets the edge of the brickface and continues straight across the opening of the existing fireplace. This would leave the combustible framing exposed where the stovepipe exits the back of the stove. Is it necessary to match the footprint of the existing fireplace firebox with the pad? Extending the existing hearth would require cutting back floor joists, repositioning of a header, etc...too involved. Our existing brick hearth falls short by about 20" in the front. Any thoughts? Thanks!

 

[EatenByLimestone]

I'd ask my inspector if he/she would accept a hearth pad that could be layed down during burning season and picked up and stored during the summer.

Since the original hearth is raised, an ember would have a tough time making it straight down into a crack... But then again, Murphy said it would happen.

Matt

 

[edthedawg]

How high do you have to go? Is it the kind of thing you could do w/ steel studs, mortar, and Durock board? I was able to build my raised hearth pad over the existing flush hearth w/ no direct attachments - i can pull it out later if we decide to undo the stove for some reason. The perimeter of the pad winds up being all noncombustible that way. Photos / sketch would be helpful to explain your particular situation...

 

[begreen]

It would help to see a picture to be sure we are visualizing this correctly. Is this a raised hearth? If yes, have you considered having the hearth extension at floor level?

 

[ccady]

The existing hearth is nearly flush, perhaps raised 1/4 over the surrounding maple floor. Because it is raised just a bit I thought that by using wood rather than steel framing I could dado out the section that covers the existing hearth to get the pad level (then the combustible material comes into play on the back edge).

Thanks for the input... my camera is on loan...I'll put up some pix as soon as I get it back.

Court

 

[M1sterM]

The existing hearth is nearly flush, perhaps raised 1/4 over the surrounding maple floor. Because it is raised just a bit I thought that by using wood rather than steel framing I could dado out the section that covers the existing hearth to get the pad level (then the combustible material comes into play on the back edge).

Thanks for the input... my camera is on loan...I'll put up some pix as soon as I get it back.

Court

Just lay some type of shim the same 1/4 inch as the height of the hearth on the floor in front of the existing hearth so you have a flat surface to lay the metal 2x4's on. If the floor is uneven, just lay the 2x4's out, and then use actual shims in multiple locations to level everything off. No need to get complicated with using a dado to modify wood 2x4's.

 

[ccady]

Great idea! I'm not too familiar with metal studs...but I will be soon. Again, I'll get some pix soon

 

[edthedawg]

I had some unevenness in my flush pad - not a uniform 1/4" or anything. But regardless, I would offer you could lay down 1/4" Hardibacker board (not Durock/Wonderboard - this is the lighter, whiter material next to it at Home Despot) in strips around your existing hearth, to build out the footprint you need in front and/or on the sides. Then you could lay Durock right over that, covering the whole area, mortar steel studs to that, and then more durock above it. Tile top and all around, find a nice edge, and *poof* you're "done".